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1G Possible blown turbo?

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PPiechocki

Probationary Member
24
0
Dec 24, 2012
Loveland, Colorado
Alright, I bought a '90 GSX for Christmas with 142k. As of right now, when I get on it and don't shift before 4k, my dipstick blows out. also, i'm leaking oil out of the weep hole in the valve cover, burning oil, getting a lot of oil into the i/c, and burning coolant. I also don't have any smoke, blue or white, coming from the exhaust. The water pump was also replaced at 140k in early december.

From what I can tell, I don't have noticeable shaft play, but i've never have to deal with bad shaft play before. Aaaaaaaaand now for the reason why I think the turbo is the cause.... My boost whistle is louder than my stereo. If I have my windows down while passing another car, the turbo HOWLS sooooo effing loud that it actually makes my ears hurt. And I doubt it's a boost leak, because I replaced all the i/c piping from the turbo to the throttle body, new gaskets, and new intercooler.

Anybody have any ideas of what my next steps should be? I'm honestly scared to death of this thing blowing up... it's my only vehicle and i'm moving to cali in a few months...


Oh! on an unrelated note, I have a 3" GM MAF, V2 maft and an HKS SSQV and after doing the swap, my car has a hard time starting when it's hot and i have to flutter the throttle for a few minutes to get it to catch and to get to where it will idle. anybody else having this issue?
 
Dipstock blows out = tonnage of crankcase pressure meaning massive blowby.

Either: PCV valve is clogged tight causing high oil usage.. Burning coolant is a red flag in itself.

The oil in the IC is from the massive blowby since it's not being routed back into the intake manifold to be burnt off.

Sounds like that motor is majorily due for an overhaul, or at least check your PCV system. Otherwise, you're gonna blow out the two main crank seals and lose all your oil in a heartbeat shutting down that motor in a quick .... and permanent due to all of that crankcase pressure building up.

Sounds like adding that GM MAFT didn't get installed correctly where the ECU can't see it too well - why of the hard starts and idle issues.


Good luck - DSM
 
+1 on the PCV. Check that first. Mine went bad, and it would blow that dipstick out. When you go to buy one, be sure to check that the new one is good. I kid you not, when I went to Advance Auto, the new one in the box was already bad!

I am also running another check valve in line with the PCV valve (just because the aftermarket parts tend to be kinda crappy...) as an reassurance that the gasses have an escape other than the dipstick. Eventually I'll get a proper catch can setup on there.
 
+2 on the PCV valve first, if you don't already know how to check it just blow into both ends 1 end you should be able to blow air through but the other end you shouldn't be able to. If there's no boost leaks a similar sound I had was when my timing max oct tables were way off. So maybe check that too in your ECM link.
 
Could that be a cause of the oil and coolant consumption as well? My mechanic told me I could be pushing boost down the oil lines, causing the crank case pressure
 
Ok..in order of what you stated originally...

1. Dipstick blowing out - you are getting boost past your PCV valve...either replace it and/or get a check vavle. US plastics sells a 3/8 plastic check valve that works fantastic. This could also cause oil to "leak", more likely to be pushed, out of the weep hole.

2. Getting oil into the intercooler - could also be caused by a faulty PCV system, but some oil would still end up in there even if it was functioning properly. To completely solve it, get a catch can in there.

3. Burning oil/coolant - If you say it is not smoking, how do you know its being burned? Coolant system is sealed, so its either leaking out, or if its being "burned" it would smoke I assume. Its possible it is getting by the Head gasket and being burned off quickly, but I would think it would smoke. Oil being burned, beyond what is being burned by the faulty PCV system, check your rings.

4. Howling turbo aka Boost whistle - could be something, one of the wheels, is hitting the housing and causing damage, but you say you do not have shaft play, I would double check. Or you may be starving the CHRA of oil, and you are hearing the bearing scream for mercy. Something is definately wrong with it. My suggestion is remove and replace..or upgrade.

Above are all just my opinion..and you know what they say about opinions. YMMV.
 
You can disable the turbo by disconnecting the linkage from the wastegate opener and wiring the wastegate so it remains open, but don't think on going into WOT since the exhaust is now through the wastegate.

But, this will help you find out your issues since you've taken the turbo out of the loop.
 
UPDATE: New PCV valve= no change. Massive exhaust leak at the turbo, and passed emissions. Testing compression on my next day off
 
UPDATE #2:
Dipstick blowing out= resolved. Bad PCV.
Loud boost whistle= Discovered. 3 bent fins on the intake side.

Still going to test compression, but the turbo and manifold needs replacement, there is a crack on the mani in between the 4 turbo bolts and the turbo has two HUGE hotside cracks and is mixing the oil and coolant.

Thank you so much for all of your help
 
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