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Possible 68 impala 4g63 compound turbo

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I like the idea. Hope you'll keep the look like it is right now.
that car will turn heads with a engine that sounds just soooo wrong.

I think the 4G will make more than enough torque to make this car go as fast as a dd needs to be ;)
 
Theres no way i would not put a big block in that car. You could build a low compression n/a pump gas motor that would make 600whp and last the life of that car.

I mean these guys 4g swapping stangs, or running a 4g in a full tube rwd car are just silly. I mean unless you go into the project knowing that your going to spend 3x the money to make less hp and less reliably, but your just doing it to be different or whatever, then it doesnt make any sense.
 
I say go for it. That car is a boat, but as long as you love the chassis that is all the matters. My 1947 Dodge truck has been the most fun and challenging build yet. I too love the 4G63 and that is why I stuck one in an old Dodge truck. I am very close to having mine on the road. I am steering and wheels/tires away from having my truck on the road.

Here is a video of it running. It is now further along since the video was taken.

1947 4g61 powered Dodge rat rod - YouTube
 
^^What rear end and transmission did you use?


The body of the car won't change much, although the stance will be low.

After talking with a friend who is a GM engineer today, it seems as though A sequential turbo setup might be more benifitial to this build. A small 16g- to a hx40. That way from low rpm around 3,000 I have upwards to 300hp and270lbs of torque, to get things moving, and then swap over to the hx40 around 5500-6000 rpms so i can have the most top end power hopefully in the 600 range, While still having a great drive and dependability and pretty good gas miliage out of boost.
I know alot will depend on my rear end's gearing along with the transmissions gearing.


I will have less money in this swap, because it's just going to take time, I have that. I dont feel like spending more time learning how to tune a new system, or converting carb to FI, fighting for room under the hood for a TTv8, etc.
I'm selling the 327 block, this is going to happen, the 68 impala, will be 4g63t by summer.
 
When i bought the dodge originally it had a chevy inline 6, muncie four speed and a gm passenger 12 bolt rear end. The only thing i kept was the rear end. I added an Eaton limited slip. I now have a TH400 behind the 4G61.
 
Compounds all day eeerrrrrryyyday. Sequential is just some garbage engineers came up with to dazzle people with shit.

16g with a 6cm housing run at like 10-15psi with a HX40 on top to make 30. yeah buddy. Interstage cool that bi*** too unless this is gonna be a E85 monster.
 
^^ Can you go into more detail as to why you think my original idea is a better one?

Also, it will be a pump gas 93 oct. With meth injection,
To be honest my whole conceren is being able to make my speedometer work correctly. But seeing I'll be using a GM transmission that might not be an issue at all.
Also after i get a test fitment, I may have to move the tranmission forward,, so I won't have any water line issues. And hopefully I can think this thing through a create a simple way to install and remove the engine within minutes, similar to how easy a V8 is.
 
Quick disconnect fittings/AN fittings on everything. And quick disconnect connectors for the wiring harness. Once I remove the front end of my truck(9 bolts total, fenders and grill welded together), the motor is right there. I have AN lines for everything. I can have the engine out from a running vehicle in under 30 minutes by myself.
 
Agreed, don't waste your time with sequentials.

You have enough mass and a tall enough first/final if you are using a TH400 to load up any secondary turbo you'd like in a hurry.

I'd personally go 2.3L with a 10cm T3 housing on an S16G with a 44mm gate, and a 62mm S300sx in 1.10A/R T4 with another 44mm tapped into both scrolls.

Don't be put off by the "big" turbine housings. You have to consider efficiency and massflow.

You'll have nearly 5L worth of exhaust breathing into the S300sx once the 16G lights off and is making around 15psi boost.

You need a big turbine wheel and housing on the primary for a high VE, high rpm 5L.

Quick disconnect fittings/AN fittings on everything. And quick disconnect connectors for the wiring harness. Once I remove the front end of my truck(9 bolts total, fenders and grill welded together), the motor is right there. I have AN lines for everything. I can have the engine out from a running vehicle in under 30 minutes by myself.

Are you using the Jiffy-Tite quick disconnects?
 
Is there a 17cm T4 for the HX40? That would work nicely too.

I would still put the 14B in an 8CM MHI or T3 10CM housing though.

Gas motors are more susceptible than diesel to issues from excess backpressure/inefficiency, given that whole knock/detonation thing LOL
 
2jzgte time. You can get a stock 2jzgte that will hold as much power as a 4g63t built. 2jz can make 400hp and 450tq on the stock turbos. It is ultra smooth too. They make adapter for this engine to mate to a GM tranny for a very cheap price. Go that route. It is a better idea.
 
Will I be using the dsm torque converter or the gm torque converter with the adapter plate? I have a lead on a new billet gm if I can use it.


I need to know what transmission and what rear end gears to use, to get the closest gear ratio that the 2g comes with. For engine longevity I feel this is important.

Tranny gear ratios for DSMs


Transmission 1st Gear 2nd Gear 3rd Gear 4th Gear OD
Turbo 350........2.52.........1.52 .....1..........N/A
Turbo 400 .......2.48..........1.48.....1..........N/A
2004R .............2.74.........1.57......1......... 0.67
700R4 /4L60.....3.06.........1.63 ......1......... 0.7
4L80E..........2.48.........1.48.......1........... 0.75 ----is this what I would need?

Am I understanding, the lower the number='s the shorter gearing?

If So 4l80e is what I need, but I'm unsyre on the rear end gearing.


I just paid my bills off, and I'm about to buy my wife a suv, so her civic will be my new DD, and I'll be able to get an early start on this project.
 
Am I understanding, the lower the number='s the shorter gearing?

If So 4l80e is what I need, but I'm unsyre on the rear end gearing.

Bigger the number, shorter the gear. The .75 is an overdrive. Its less then 1:1 to reduce rpm's.

And the 4l80e is a great option in a hotrod street car, buts its going to be by far the most expensive. As it requires a controller. There are loads of standalone units and conversions pieces if your dead set on it. As well as being one of the more expensive to rebuild.
 
How are you coing to control the 4L80E Trans? It will need a TCU of sorts, Painless wiring may have one.

According to your chart the 700R4 has a qicker 1st gear.

Also do not forget to factor in your tire size for your final drive.

Swap over to a Ford 8.8 rear, and you have a wide range of gear to choose from.

I will guess that 26 inch tire, you will want a gear in the range of 3.27-3.90 (Some ford 8.8 came from the factory with a LSD and 3.73 gears)

This should set you cruise @60 about 3000RPM
 
Okay that makes since.
The 700r4 closed unit and a ford 8" rear end, As I feel the ford 9" is overkill for this build.

Okay. The list is comming together.
Also do any of you know which converter I'll be using?
 
Check on zero g for the gm adapter. You can get a Buschur set or the one by a guy name Bill xxxxxxx (not sure of last name). You can get the adapter kit now to run every thing GM now.
 
Since you are a leafspring rear now, Look at ford trucks, vans, SUVs for the rear, some will be an "off set" design, you will want to avoid those.

Find the right rear, you will score a rear disc brake swap at the same time, so grab the metering block at the same time.

A 28 spline should do for your goals, but try for the 31 spline set up.

The ring and pinion will swap from 28 spline or 31, but the rest will not. Diffs and axles.
 
Wheel Adapter 5475-5450X Wheel Adapters
If I choose to posi the 10 bolt rear end or I can get the adapters for the ford 8"

Just looking into my larger tires now. On a 18" rim, I may have to bolt these up, along with the air ride, before I can calculate my space for the tires.

18 x 8 1/2
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I suck at photo editing, but if someone can edit these wheels on the impala on the first page, that would be great.
 
When i bought the dodge originally it had a chevy inline 6, muncie four speed and a gm passenger 12 bolt rear end. The only thing i kept was the rear end. I added an Eaton limited slip. I now have a TH400 behind the 4G61.

Have you used the oem brake booster with the engine or have you changed to a deleted system? I'm curious if my engine will pull enough vacume for the large GM brake booster. Or if I need to swap over the gsx's.
 
I run a twin Wilwood master cylinder setup. My brakes are manual. I also run high rated teflon brake lines. All of my lines are flexible and use army/navy fittings. So nothing of mine is from an oem manufacturer except the drums. The brake lines are produced by Eaton. DOT rated to 5000psi, tested to at least 3000psi which i got to watch the test.
 
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IIRC the Ford Small pattern, and the DSM have the same lug spacing, you may need to get spacers and longer lug studs tho.
 
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