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pksystems 97 Talon TSi AWD

Rating:
5/5,
Year:
1997
Model/Trim:
Eagle Talon TSi AWD
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  1. kmetiuk

    kmetiuk Proven Member

    361
    120
    Joined Mar 10, 2010
    Edmonton, AB, Canada

    OH NO! Thats not good. Hopefully the camera is wrong and had some shmutz on the lens. I hope its alright. You put so much love and work into this thing. :(
     

    Road Race Build 1K  1

    1997 Eagle Talon N/T
    manual · 2G DSM
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    buddahboost likes this.
  2. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    204
    120
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Finally trying to figure out what is wrong.

    The car shifts into gear fine, and moves under it's own power. I've been moving it out of the garage to do other projects. There is a rattle noise that sounds like it's coming from the block, near the transmission. I don't think something is wrong with the clutch, because it shifts fine. When you rev the engine, the noise seems to go away. As soon as RPM's drop back to idle, the rattle comes back. I'm preparing to pull the transfer case, so I can pull the flywheel inspection cover, and will be pulling the oil pan. I pulled the valve cover, and everything seems tight. I re-torqued the headstuds. There is some rust on the lobes of the camshafts, which I assume is because the car hasn't run for more then a couple minutes at a time for months, but the noise was there the next morning after the issue arose. The rear catchcan was 2/3 full, and the front had some liquid in it aswell. Yellow water.

    Ideas, before I start pulling everything off?
    TOB? It was new, OEM.
    Alt/PS/AC bearings?
    ACT Clutch fingers broken off?
    Hotside turbo blades rubbing?
    Rod bearings? I have some lifter tick, but this doesn't sound like rod bearings from other videos.


     

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  3. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    204
    120
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    The rattling noise has been found.

    Since some lunatic went crazy with the RightStuff, I will need a new oil pan, so I will be putting on an aftermarket aluminum one. It was leaking anyways.

     

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  4. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    204
    120
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Transmission is almost ready to pull. I will get to use my homemade engine support bar for a second time. :)

    Not going to order parts till I'm 100% sure what I need, but I'm assuming new clutch/PP, and flywheel. When the car broke down, there was smoke coming out of the breather ports on the transmission, so I'm pretty sure something messed up with the clutch. I tried to use my fiber optic camera through the breather ports, but didn't see much. No visible broken fingers on the PP, but I couldn't inspect them all.

    Opinions on parts? I'm looking at ACT2100 PP, with 6-puck unsprung disc, and ACT Streetlite flywheel. New OEM TOB. The Fidanza FW was used, and seemed to drive fine, but this doesn't appear to be a one-off with Fidanza after checking on the web, so I'm going with the ACT.

    Going to rebuild my Evo 3 turbo, install a new alternator (hopefully this fixes my battery drain) and reinstall my aluminum radiator, while I have everything pulled apart.

    I am determined to drive on my new wheels/tires (that I bought 2 years ago) for the first time this summer :p
     

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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    Hickory-NC-2Ggsx likes this.
  5. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    204
    120
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Engine support bar made with scrap. Only cost was a couple nuts, and the welding consumables.

    20190728_123546_1600.jpg

    Looking for opinions. I was hoping to see something more obvious. PP/Clutch/Flywheel were all used, but low mileage. They looked decent to me. New OEM TOB looks fine, but I will replace it anyway. Clutch started to get uneven wear on flywheel side, and overheated the flywheel, which loosened the starter ring? I don't seem to recall the rattling noise till the next morning.
    20190728_123702_1600.jpg
    20190728_123640_1600.jpg


    Clutch disc and flywheel matching wear marks.
    20190728_123645_1600.jpg
    20190728_123648_1600.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2019

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  6. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    204
    120
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Rebuilt EVO III 16G with Tradergreg kit.

    New parts!
    20190813_115221_1600.jpg


    And of course, while you're in there.....
    20190813_115335_1600.jpg

    OBX knockoff of the Moroso oil pan. **UPDATE** It might be due to the stroker, and aftermarket bolts/rods, but I would not recommend this pan. It's not worth the time to make it fit.

    Lots of issues to overcome with this thing, but it bolts up. Both pans have similar issues, but I can see why this is so much cheaper then the Moroso.

    I enlarged all holes, and hogged out a couple of them. I'll have to find longer bolts (thicker flange), or studs, since some of the holes will be very difficult to install bolts around the sump kick outs.

    The studs by the rear main seal hit the side. I test fit, ground, test fit, ground..etc... Eventually I ground down the end of the ARP studs, so they are a bullet shape, and removed the washers on those studs, which allows the 12 point nuts to clear the pan. There would have been too much material to remove on the pan alone.

    The reason I wanted the aluminum pan is for the thicker flange, so I can surface it flat. Unfortunately OBX didn't seem to have sanded it much, if at all. Several hours of block sanding, and DIY surfacing on a piece of granite. Upon re-test fitting the pan, the ARP rod bolts (Stroker) on cylinder 2 and 3 hit the pan. Cylinder 2 is right on the edge of the sump. I can't hammer out the aluminum to clear the rod, so I'll be adding material. I will have a couple beads tig'd onto the outside of the pan, and then grind down the inside to clear the rods.

    The turbo return stud/flange piece fits fine on the outside of the pan, but does not fit on the inside, where it has to go. Couple seconds on the belt sander and it's fixed.


    ------

    More parts on the way, heat reflective sheet for the bottom of the oil pan around the downpipe (Hopefully it and the transfer case clear) I touched up the paint, and wrapped my downpipe with DEI Titanium to keep the heat away from the oil pan.

    20190814_211345_1600.jpg

    I'm pretty sure my parasitic draw is being caused by my old alternator. Amazon had a NEW (not re-manufactured) 90AMP one with some decent reviews for $68cdn shipped, and I couldn't pass it up. Looks like a new alternator, and seems to spin fine.
    20190814_211550_1600.jpg


    Fumoto drain valve for the oil pan. Other issue with both OBX/Moroso is stripping out the drain plug threads.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2019

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  7. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    204
    120
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    The modification continues. The pan fully bolts up, and clears the rods.

    I also had to trim off a small section of the flange to clear the oil filter housing.

    No amount of block sanding would have got this thing flat. I did end up adding JBWeld on both ends to fill the low spots, then surfaced it on a piece of granite. JBWeld should have no problem with the heat, and it's chemical resistant to pretty much everything. The RTV will fail before the JBWeld does.

    20190821_151122~2.jpg

    The panel around the pickup needs some trimming and apparently racecars don't use dipsticks. Holesaw time.

    20190821_150850~2.jpg

    Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, Competition forged clutch fork, oem TOB installed.
    20190822_121027_1600.jpg

    20190822_122042_1600.jpg

    20190822_155337_1600.jpg

    I don't like the way the TOB clip is sitting, so I may try to bend it to get a tighter fit around the TOB

    20190822_155253_1600.jpg

    Fumoto valve for the OBX Racing oil pan.

    fumoto.jpg

    Checking for clearance for the Fumoto. I bought the longer one with the nipple on it, so I can attach a length of hose. No problem clearing the axles, and the subframe. I am pretty (not 100%) sure the driveshaft/downpipe will clear the pan. I'm using stainless bolts, next to bare aluminum on the bottom of the car, so galvanic corrosion would be an issue. Nylon insulating washers should negate this. I still need to double check if the bolts by the timing belt are short enough.

    20190822_221640_1600.jpg

    While making it fit, I was a bit worried that the sump kick-out was going to be taking rock hits from the drivers side wheel well, so I loosely installed the splash shield. The pan tucks in behind it nicely.

    20190822_221516_1600.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2019

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  8. pksystems

    pksystems Proven Member

    204
    120
    Joined Nov 9, 2003
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Leak testing the OBX Racing oil pan complete.

    Yep, it's junk.

    The only difference I can see with this and the Moroso is the fully welded exterior flange. If OBX had copied that it would be leak free. You can see water seeping through in a couple sections.

    Screenshot_2019-08-25-22-27-17~2.png
    Not sure I agree with their slogan.

    Time to fully weld the flange, and then print a Moroso decal ;)
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2019

    5K  25

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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