pksystems 1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD street build

[chrysler kid]

I had a duraflex predator hood back in the day. They are cheap and worked well. Might want to consider one

 

[pksystems]

It's Alive! Now to make some adjustments, and tune it.

Lifter tick is gone after ~10minutes of idling.

 

[pksystems]

Set base idle timing to 5degrees.

Ran the car several times while making adjustments, and kept checking that the timing was still good. Still not 100% sure what happened to my timing last year, but with new OEM tensioner and arm it hasn't moved. I reused the belt, and when I made my timng belt adjustment, I put it on a little bit tight.

Fixed a small coolant leak on my lower 6-bolt radiator hose joiner.

Adjusted the TPS like a hundred times. It was fluctuating between 0.63-0.65 when warm. It's now 0.63v when fully warmed up. Loosened my throttle cable. It was reading zero when cold, but once the car is fully warmed up it went to 1%, which was pushing the TPS even higher.

Picked up 20L of fresh Ultra94 @ 157.9/L
Pretty sure 94 (E10) is overkill at 3400' altitude.
I've been making idle adjustments on the Ultra94 I put in last year. I have no idea what octane it is anymore, so it will be drained and replaced with new fuel.

I have to take a look at LTFT LO. I seem to remember it was reading O for most of my idling time, and when everything was adjusted I started getting like ~9%

Idle tuning complete. (I think)



I'll triple check the tuning guides, but I think the car will move under it's own power tomorrow for some logging.

 

[pksystems]

Put the hood on the car, which increased underhood temps.

Took it for a cruise. I've never seen a car overheat so fast. We called it a day when we got a CEL for coolant temp in under 6km.

My slim fans are wired so they should come on in Mid and Hi position, but the pass fan only comes on when temps hit 223+F (Hi) Drivers side ONLY comes on when A/C is switched on. Something is up with them. I'm positive earlier this week the passenger fan was coming on around ~203F ?

All my idle tuning numbers went out the window pretty quick. TPSvolts was set to 0.63 when warmed up in idle. When we stopped and were idling after a short drive it was 0.75, which would help account for the new 1300rpm idle.

Anyway, I'll play with the logs later.

Car horn doesn't work. Alarm horn I removed seems to fit and have the same connector. It will be temporarily used, since I don't want to hack my harness for a universal one (that I already had)

Reverse lights don't work. Bulbs/fuses are fine. Have to check switch.

All fan relays/fuses are working fine. My OEM fans did not fit properly on the mishimoto radiator, so I'm temporarily going to reinstall the OEM rad/fan setup and see if that fixes my cooling issue.

 

[JS4G63]

Excellent project! Is this car in my/the 2Gb AWD Talon Registry? I don't think it is.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NVuEwEdVECIYprrfesZGBuvQnhOsfPFT-TIBSvHH754
You can fill out this form here to provide information about any 2Gb AWD you know of!
http://goo.gl/forms/QY5wtrMtXr
More registry info:
http://www.ecmtuning.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74212
http://www.ecmtuning.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74221
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/call-to-arms-2gb-awd-talon-brethren.456546/
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2gb-talon-rear-quarter-glass-anomaly.272962/

If that car came with tan seats, it was very rare - only six 97 AWDs built for Canada were black 5-speeds with tan leather. Another eight of them had tan fabric seats.

 

[pksystems]

Excellent project! Is this car in my/the 2Gb AWD Talon Registry? I don't think it is.

I didn't put it on there, but it's there. It DID have "electric pulsar beige" cloth seats.

 

[JS4G63]

Every VIN is in the Mitsubishi CAPS database from which I extracted the information in that screenshot, but additional information about where each car is, when it was last "pinged", how many miles on it, what kind of condition it is in, whether it had ABS, LSD, sunroof, keyless entry, etc is the purpose of the Registry and the web-form. For some reason there was no information in Mitsubishi CAPS about whether a particular VIN had ABS, LSD and other things, so I am hoping to piece it all together myself with the help of the community!

Those cloth seats "electric pulsar beige" are very rare, hopefully you still have them!

 

[pksystems]

Front seats are ready to toss as soon as this car passes an inspection. Cloth door panels, headliner, and rear seats are long gone. This is a driver, not a collectible.

In other news this car is in fact cursed.

Small gear oil leak on passengers side of trans. I HOPE its the axle seal, even tho I replaced it.

Mishimoto radiator swapped out for OEM? plastic tank thing and stock fans. Used closed cell foam to fill the gaps between the ac condensor and the radiator. There was ~1" of gap on the sides, and ~1/2" at the top.
Just so you know how much more capacity the aluminum rad has... the plastic rad holds 1/2 the fluid. We'll see if I can find some slim fans that work for the Mishimoto later. I want this thing on the road.


By far the cheapest thing in the engine bay. That plastic tank rad.



Pillaging the beater for my OEM AWD fans.

 

[pksystems]

Replaced passenger side axle seal (again) and it's leak free this time.

Replaced reverse sensor, I now have backup lights!

Swapped out my homemade aluminum transmission shifter cable mount bushings for the proper OEM rubber things. Car shifts better, altho first seems to want to be manhandled. All other gears shift fine when driving.

Picked up a Dodge Avenger radiator fan. Slimmer then our main fan and fits the same. Its installed on the oem radiator for now, but I'm positive it will fit on the mishimoto rad.

Did some tuning!!!

Idle drive went fine other then I forgot to disable random misfire check and got a light. Car didn't overheat with oem rad setup. Logs looked fine.

Went for another drive today. This time with me driving. I didn't push it super hard, but we did get into boost. Not much (boost-est said 7.9psi) As was the goal, this car gets into boost very quickly.

Gave it it's first bath in ~10 years.

Adjusted deadtimes to lower my CombinedFT from a high of 8% to a high of 2%.

Snow is back, so no WOT runs for now.

 

[pksystems]

Started doing 3rd gear pulls. I only took it to 6000rpm. I did get 3.5 deg of knock, but my MAFComp needs adjusting to get the AFRatioEst and Wideband in sync before I do another run.

I'm going to add a MAP sensor to my unused MDP connector so I can log Boost. I think I only hit ~14psi in that run.

Overall, as it is, it is by far the fastest vehicle I've ever driven.

 

[Kryndon]

Hands down one of the best 2G Talons and restoration/mod project I've come across! Think you can do an in-car video of a pull or two so we can see/hear it? Mine's under the operating table for now so I need to get my DSM fix somehow haha.

 

[pksystems]

Snow is back.

Tuning is on hold till roads are dry.

I will be testing out the front camera mount (below tow hook) and post the video.

Picked up a free GM 3.3Bar Map sensor (09373269) out of a GMC Sierra 2500HD turbo diesel at the salvage yard. Unfortunately the wiring pigtail was cut off the harness, so I'll have to go back and find a pigtail from a different car. The plan is to hack up my unused MDP sensor, so it will plug right into the factory harness for logging boost through ecmlink.

 

[pksystems]

Picked up a wiring pigtail and a spare MDP sensor from the scrap yard. Opened up the MDP sensor and removed all the internals. Soldered some wires into the inside, and permanently sealed them in JBWeld. Soldered and heatshrinked those onto the pigtails for the GM 3.3bar MAP sensor. Tucked my new adapter harness under the coil pack and temporarily mounted the MAP sensor on the firewall. I will make a proper bracket in the next couple days.

Enabled the MAP sensor in ecmlink and went for another 3rd gear run.

I changed my EBC from HI (last run) to LO mode. I did get boost cut, so I need to adjust that.

High numbers from tonight (not at same time)

6510 rpm
17.3 psi
1.8 degrees of knock

 

[pksystems]

Registered and insured (as modified) with Hagerty.

Pics for insurance. These are my old/junk wheels/tires since the car still needs an alignment. The car is mostly tuned. I'm going to toss my OEM GSX winter wheels/tires on in the next couple days.

Personalized plate has been ordered.

 

[chrysler kid]

I think I have the same front mount setup, anyways for the mishimoto you need to cut off the mounting ears on the stock condensor fan and mount it using the pull through ties for radiators, or get creative with zip ties.

Mount the condenser fan first, then the radiator fan mounts slightly over lapping the condenser fan. Its a snug fit but they fit.

Personally I prefer the oem plastic tanks

 

[pksystems]

I did the mod on the condensor fan, and was able to use bolts to secure it to the Mishimoto. The condensor fan fit fine, it was the main (passenger side) fan that wouldn't fit next to the J-pipe. Even trimming the housing down wasn't enough, I would have had to trim all the fan blades. I believe the Avenger fan I picked up from the salvage yard is approximately 1" thinner then our main fan. Everything is mounted on the stock radiator for now (including the Avenger fan) and I'll swap out the plastic tank radiator when summer returns.

Started trying to trace down my parasitic draw. If I leave the car with the battery connected for more then 1 day, it will be completely drained. It looks like I'm losing 0.24 amps with the car sitting. This isn't a crazy amount, but it is high. I checked all the fuses, and upon pulling them one at a time, there was no change. I may have to take a look at my alternator.

 

[pksystems]

Alignment done. I tried to set the ride height as close to OEM as I could, with my Koni Yellows/GC setup. The passenger side rear toe is just outside of spec. I suspect the car is riding a bit lower then stock.

 

[pksystems]

First couple legal drives..... This car is insane. But it has a cost. First 166kms used 1/2 a tank of fuel.

Next issue... I am loosing oil, but there is nothing accumulating on the ground under the car. Front catch can has nothing in it. Rear catch can had maybe 40mL of yellowy water. I say maybe, because my drain hose is a bit short, and I managed to splash quite a bit on my face.

Oil filler cap, has a small amount of oil around it, so I'll get a new seal for that. I am getting a bit of black soot coming out the exhaust and accumulating on the ground. I haven't noticed any smoke. Turbo oil seals?

 

[pksystems]

Semi-polished my carbon rock shield, installed it and went for a drive. I'll have to see if it rattles at high speed, but it seemed fine with a quick acceleration up to 80km/h.

It does an awesome job of transporting snow around. My garage should be full of water in the morning.

 

[chrysler kid]

I'm late to reply

Your battery might just be bad. With my headlights on the car would read 1.2 amps if I recall correctly. .2 amps was acceptable for a radio and led security light.

My alternator was drawing a rediculous 2 amps when it went bad.

Oil loss,
Are you comparing warm oil readings to warm oil readings. Im positive Mitsubishi was flawed in their valve cover design and oil cap design. The cam flings oil directly at the crappy cap, they should have designed an inner baffle or screw on style cap. Anything other than a t25 seems to cause excess oil and crank case pressure, combined with a balance shaft delete and the cap really is no match for super hot oil

 

[pksystems]

Battery was purchased new last summer. I haven't really looked at the parasitic draw for a week. As long as it doesn't go more then 1 day it's fine. I'll eventually track it down. I just use the battery quick disconnect if I know it will be sitting 2 days.

It is definitely losing oil somewhere. There was barely anything around the cap today. Cold, the oil was approximately 3/4 to full, so I topped it up again. I picked the better of the 2 oil caps that came with my 2 motors. I believe this is the cap that came with the RVR head, and the rubber seal is way more flexible then what came with the 6-bolt. I will pick up a new cap next time I place an order from RTM.

First full (mostly) tank of fuel has been burned. 41.71L to go 300.8km. 7.21km/L is pretty bad, but I haven't been using this car for mileage. It's a bit worse then EVO X factory listed mileage.

Boost kicks in at approximately 2800rpm, so that explains the fuel comsumption.

I still have my EBC set to the low mode. I have made adjustments to the High setting, I just need to take the car out for some more 3rd gear pulls.

 

[pksystems]

Akaso EK7000 action camera on front tow hook mount. The mark on left side is a crack on my old case. I did a test with my $38cdn Costco special last week, and the quality on the Akaso is way better. The costco camera will get moved with this mount to the rear tow hook. I'm going to make a stronger mount for the front.



My clean enough to eat off car bottom is no longer clean Everything on the car is wet from melted snow, but I'm not seeing too much oil.

It looks like my motor oil leaks are from around the oil pan, and the AN-10 turbo return.



I hope it's not from the rear main seal (which was replaced) but I may need to drop my transfer case to see what's going on with the oil pan. All bolts that are accessible with the transfer case in the way have been tightened.

While checking things out <100mL of fluid in my rear catch can after ~600km's

 

[pksystems]

Made a proper map sensor mount out of the factory GM mount, and a some scrap steel.


Made a new, stronger front camera mount. It's identical to the old one, but has an extra bend of steel on the edge.


Moved the old front camera mount to the rear tow hook.


Ordered a pair of CNC'd aluminum gopro mounts, since the plastic one I have for my cameras already has a broken tab.

 

[pksystems]

Noticed a problem today in traffic ..... I seem to have zero boost in first gear. 2/3/4/5 are all fine.

It looks like I've developed a boost leak on one of my lower IC couplers.

Checked lower IC pipes for oil. None found.

Inspected turbo for play. I'm pretty sure there is a little bit more then before. The E3 16G was used when I bought it. My backup Evo I 16G that was rebuilt before I bought it, has ZERO shaft play, so I will order a rebuild kit for the Evo3.

Reinstalled everything, and fixed boost leaks on couplers.

 

[pksystems]

Just in time for the good weather. The curse continues.

Something broke on engine. I thought it was the turbo, but it seems to spin freely, no additional play, with some oil pre-turbo that isn't recirculated.

It still revs fairly quick, but makes no boost at all. I pulled into a parking lot when something was clearly wrong, and there was smoke that looked like it was coming from 2 of the breather ports on the transmission.

I babied it home keeping it under 2500rpms.

Car starts and runs, but makes a rattling noise. Sounds like valve train. My inspection inside the cylinders with my crappy usb endoscope looked like bits of molten aluminum on the pistons. I'm hoping it's just the crappy camera tho.

Updates will be coming.