The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

img_8094800x600.jpg

My fuse box relocation (project log)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Eric, you need to come to NC and eliminate my unnecessary wiring for me. If there is one thing I hate/don't understand, it is wiring.

Sure LOL


Honestly, the wiring hasn't really been that bad. There has only been a few wires that I looked up in the FSM to make sure I could remove them. Basically just pick out what connector you want gone and remove the wires associated with it. A bonus from this project is that I've started learning how to read circuit diagrams in the FSM. I still don't understand everything on them but I'm slowly learning. Lately I've been thinking about how many wires I could remove from the interior harnesses, maybe I'll do that too someday. That would be easier than the engine bay wiring because I won't have to reroute everything, just delete what I don't want.
 
What is cold soaking? I don't know exactly. My buddy brings the parts to work for me, puts them in the machine, and takes them out when he leaves work. It automatically cleans the parts in some fluid.

I'm providing bead blasting services. PM me if you're interested.
 
That connector is very close to the fuse box, so the connector on the fuse box harness will automatically be moved to the interior with the fuse box. For the ecu harness, I moved the connector to the interior by removing the pins from the connector and pulling the wires through the firewall grommet. They will be connected in the interior now.
 
Ugh, I am in the middle of this whole wiring crap too. I want to thank you for all the information you have posted. I dont know If I will be taking the wire out of the car because all of that confused me...:confused:... I was planning the whole left side right side wiring thing so this has definatly helped me out...
 
Eric,
...and probably Brian as well...

Your project is going along well.

You are accomplishing a lot of work, especially since it has been near/below freezing for a while now. I know your garage if full, so some of your work is likely outside!

Your intake manifold, transmission, and transfer case look really great. I was suprised that you have not yet done the rear's driveshaft and differential/axle! Then, most of the entire driveline will look "new" and clean. Maybe these are being done right now, or they're getting ready to be done during the Holidays. I know you have a devoted plan!

Keep up the good work,
Jim
 
Ugh, I am in the middle of this whole wiring crap too. I want to thank you for all the information you have posted. I dont know If I will be taking the wire out of the car because all of that confused me...:confused:... I was planning the whole left side right side wiring thing so this has definatly helped me out...

No problem, let me know if you have any questions on the wiring.

Eric,
...and probably Brian as well...

Your project is going along well.

You are accomplishing a lot of work, especially since it has been near/below freezing for a while now. I know your garage if full, so some of your work is likely outside!

Your intake manifold, transmission, and transfer case look really great. I was suprised that you have not yet done the rear's driveshaft and differential/axle! Then, most of the entire driveline will look "new" and clean. Maybe these are being done right now, or they're getting ready to be done during the Holidays. I know you have a devoted plan!

Keep up the good work,
Jim

Hey Jim! These past couple weekends have been COLD. I painted some pieces this weekend so I had to use a space heater to heat the garage somewhat. After I was done, I had to move all my stuff out of the garage to the shed and Florida room. All so my stepdad can park his SUV in the tiny garage for a few bad days this winter :notgood: The engine build will now be taking place in the Florida room. Tip: Pushing an engine stand (with engine) through the grass is not easy.

The rear end of the car will be the next big project to clean up, probably not for awhile though. I just want to drive my baby again!


Just a little update again. Painted the steel portion of my transfer case - 3 coats of Duplicolor "DE 1612 Gray Engine Primer" and 3 coats "DE 1634 GM/Chrysler Low Gloss Black" and the counterweight on the transmission was painted with 3 coats primer and 3 coats "DE 1635 Ford Semi-Gloss Black". I also assembled most of the extra stuff on the transmission. I bead blasted the ends of my fuel feed line. Since the ends are steel, they would rust if I didn't clear coat them. Since I can't powdercoat them, I had to spray them with Testors Dullcote.

IMG_7129.jpg


IMG_7145.jpg


IMG_7155.jpg


IMG_7158.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It's too bad you're so far away I'd definitely want to help or watch, and get parts blasted haha. Thanks a ton for keeping this thread updated with so much useful info. You're pretty much the only reason I've had the motivation to do this. Winter sucks though, I need to get my heater out to the garage I'm working in.
 
I finally got my parts back from the welder. Good thing he does good work for a decent price, or I would really be angry.

I won't be using any emissions or the BCS anymore, so I cut those 2 nipples off my intake pipe and had the holes welded shut. He also polished them decently, I'll just polish it a bit more to blend in.

IMG_7205.jpg


IMG_7209.jpg



There was a miscommunication and the welder welded the whole top of the throttle body instead of just the little holes left after shaving the block off it. Although this isn't what I wanted him to do, it's pretty cool so I'll see if I can work with it. I think it'll look better on a 1g intake manifold so I might try it on my brother's car.

IMG_7213.jpg



I'm going to use a -10 SS line for my turbo oil return line. Instead of using a bolt-on fitting at the oil pan I opted to weld an Earl's -10 steel fitting to the pan to eliminate a potential oil leak. Oil pans from n/t 2g's with 4g64's (Spyders) are identical to 2g turbo pans except they have no provisions for the return line. This way, I just drilled one hole for the fitting and didn't have to worry about welding the bolt holes up. Thanks to ejc83 for giving me his oil pan! (He switched to a turbo oil pan so he didn't have to have anything welded when he converts to turbo.) As the pictures show, it is impossible to weld the fitting entirely on the outside because of the tight spot it is in. He welded as much as he could on the outside, then welded the bung completely from the inside so it won't leak.

IMG_6673.jpg


IMG_7228.jpg


IMG_7230.jpg


IMG_7234.jpg



I also had an Autometer 1/8" NPT bung (#2260) welded in the pan so I'm ready to go when I get an oil temperature gauge. I placed the bung where I did because that's where Moroso has the bung at on their pan. I checked my brother's car and it looks like I have plenty of clearance for the sender in that spot. This bung is welded entirely on the outside of the pan.

m01.jpg


IMG_7217.jpg


IMG_7240.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
cant wait to see the updates, just spent a little too much time reading this whole thing but it was all worth it. keep up the good work, this will prob be the cleanest 2g engine bay i have ever seen.
 
I like outside the box thought. Neat placement with the oil temp port. Very cool. Subscribed. I might steal that idea. I was trying to think of a good place to put my oil temp gauge sensor. And I mean seriously how many of us guys have leaking turbo oil drain line to oil pan seals? Welding the Earls fitting in the eliminates that all together. I'm going to have to go back and read thru this thread to see if there are other ideas I can borrow!
Oh Man! I just finished reading thru your thread! Brilliant! I wish I had read your thread back when I was rebuilding my main underhood wiring harness! I had wanted to go thru and do exactly what you did with eliminating all the unnecessary sensors, plugs wire etc. I wonder how much that box of wire and connectors you took out weighed?
I am going to be wiring my garage for 100 amp service directly to it in the next couple of weeks so I can run a large air compressor and sandblasting cabinet. I really dig the finish aluminum gets when it beadblasted/media blasted.
You have done an incredible amount of work. That car is going to be down for a while but will be just flatout incredible when it's completed!
 
Thanks guys. Steal all the ideas you want, most of them I've stolen from other people too!

The last couple of days I've been researching bulkhead connectors and I think I've found a good solution, which I'm copying off of 16g-95gsx. Chris has been helping me out with some technical questions. I'll probably be using HDP20 connectors from here. They're high quality Deutsch connectors.
 
When you get done I will let you take my car for a year and work on it free of charge for me.
I just need it back after it is put back together with a new turbo kit.:p
 
I wish Moroso made a oil pan for a 7 bolt. Just how different are the two oil pans?

Actually, I took another look at the link I posted and that pan has the same part number as the 6 bolt - it must be listed wrong.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top