My fuse box relocation (project log)

[92AWDHX40]

Love the sand blasting, making me want to get one. Really nice work.

 

[erald01]

Looks good so far, hopefully you remember how to put everything back together

 

[turbosax2]

YES! I'm glad to see you are working on this again. I started my wire tuck today and your notes will help a lot. Thanks!

Good luck with your project!

Love the sand blasting, making me want to get one. Really nice work.

Thanks! Once you start media blasting it gets REALLY addictive. Ooohh I can blast that...and that...and that...

Looks good so far, hopefully you remember how to put everything back together

I hope so too

 

[turbosax2]

I will reference these diagrams in the future. The one is borrowed and modified from here:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...0711-relocate-fuse-box-rewire-engine-bay.html

 

[squirley8888]

Wow I just found this thread and I'm laughing so hard right now it's not funny. We are doing the same identical build you have a gsx I have an rs but our pictures look similar to me mine isnt quite fully done I have some scrubbing to do but you get the point. +1 for good mind thinking a like.

Today I removed the sound deadening beneath the rear seats, next to the rear speakers, and some on the firewall and on the rear wheel wells. I called local places that sell dry ice but all of them close before I get off work so it's impossible for me to get my hands on dry ice this week. Ok...I have some canned air at home, right? Nope, and those things are hella expensive so I didn't feel like buying a bunch. No problem - I'll just go at it with a putty knife and a rubber mallet. I started with the stuff under the rear seats. All in all, the putty knife worked pretty good, although it left behind a lot of the black tar. Then I moved to the rear speakers and that was harder to remove because of the curvature it's on. Even more tar was left behind in these areas. Then I moved to the rear wheel wells and I could pick about 1/2 the stuff off with just my hands - the other 1/2 was hard even with the putty knife so I skipped that for now and moved to the firewall. Trying to get the sound deadening off the firewall is a huge PITA! This stuff left behind TONS of tar, and trying to get in there with the putty knife is very tricky because the firewall has so many dips and such in it. I gave up after a little section and a portion of a big section. I went back and cleaned the rear seat spot and the rear speaker spots with Goo Gone to get rid of all the tar. It worked surprisingly well (and my interior now has the scent of "Citrus Power" . At first I only let it sit a few seconds before scrubbing, but I soon learned to let it sit for at least 10 minutes so it can work it's magic. After a few applications most of the tar is gone - only a few little spots remain that I can pick off with my fingernails. I was very pleased to see that the putty knife left very few scratches on the body. I'm going to give in and pick up a few cans of compressed air tomorrow to hopefully make the firewall and wheel wells easier. I also taped up some more unused connectors - all the connectors for the hvac stuff I removed, the little light that lights up the cigarette lighter (the yellowish tint won't mesh with my custom white led interior that I have planned), the light that goes in the cup holder (c'mon, it doesn't even light the cup holder up well and that's one more thing I have to remove to get the center console out), and I taped up the amp connector and stuffed it under a brace running across the floor. I kinda have the urge to remove all the unnecessary wiring in the interior now, but I just don't have time for that at the moment. I go back to school in 2 weeks so after that I'll only be able to work on weekends. Pictures of the interior will be posted after I finish gutting it all and clean the whole thing with a Simple Green solution. I would love to paint the interior now too....

HAHA man I had the same problems the firewall and the furthest rear sound deadning was the biggest PITA. You said you used a heat gun on the rear right? How did you fit under the dash?

I also even bought the new front deck garnish for the wipers too...

 

[turbosax2]

Ya, I used a heat gun on the rear and I think for that I used a plastic scraper. At that point I had pretty much everything out of the interior, including the dash, so getting to the firewall wasn't hard - just really uncomfortable.

 

[squirley8888]

I see I'll go make a thread to show you how mine looks. Pictures are a few weeks old but ill get new ones today.

 

[squirley8888]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/project-build-logs/315243-my-95-rs.html

 

[mattsGSTeclipse]

I saw your removing your manifold differential pressure plug. What does this do and what happens when its removed? I'm wondering if I should remove it also.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I saw your removing your manifold differential pressure plug. What does this do and what happens when its removed? I'm wondering if I should remove it also.

It's just part of the egr system. Just there to verify the egr is working.

 

[jayman089]

I'm not gonna lie, but I mainly just went through this thread and looked at the pictures but from what I did read, you deserve mad props for all your hard work.


Great job!

 

[turbosax2]

I saw your removing your manifold differential pressure plug. What does this do and what happens when its removed? I'm wondering if I should remove it also.

Like Pat said, the mdp is to verify the egr is working.

The MDP sensor measures the amount of vacuum in the intake manifold. It does not do this to measure the amount of air entering the engine. The MDP sensor measurement is instead used to monitor that the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) emissions control system is working correctly. 1G cars used a temperature probe for this, while 2G cars use the MDP sensor.

If you remove the mdp the car will throw a CEL. If you have dsmlink you can remove it without throwing the CEL

I'm not gonna lie, but I mainly just went through this thread and looked at the pictures but from what I did read, you deserve mad props for all your hard work.


Great job!

Thanks!

 

[No_Skillz]

So when you two are done ricing () this thing out, what are the power plans?

 

[snowborder714]

So when you two are done ricing () this thing out, what are the power plans?

Oh no you di'n't!

Here are his plans for getting the car back up and running:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/han...x-relocation-project-log-3.html#post151572063

And the next project is to drop the whole rear end and overhaul that.

But he'll be driving/racing my car until he gets his up and running. He needs his fix of boost and a 5 speed every so often

 

[1992awdlaser]

I wish my brother and I were like you two. He really doesn't know anything about cars. I don't care to drive his car though(stratus) and he won't drive mine.

 

[turbosax2]

I ported and polished the throttle body opening on my intake manifold, cleaned up all the casting flash between the runners, had my friend cold soak it to completely clean the inside, then bead blasted it. I also blasted my transfer case (didn't paint the steel portion yet) and my transmission (didn't paint the counterweight and cable bracket yet).

 

[Detective Coating]

Keep up the good work! I'm coming to see this thing when your done!

 

[Drifte]

I wish my brother and I were like you two. He really doesn't know anything about cars. I don't care to drive his car though(stratus) and he won't drive mine.

I was thinking the same. But my bro is a Honda guy, so we have to throw down every now and again. We def. don't share cars though!

Good work, I like to see things done the right way...especially when Im to broke to do them at all!

 

[turbosax2]

I think I've done as much as possible with the wiring harness without being near the car. Here are some more random notes.

#33 only connects #27 (Evap purge solenoid) from fuse box harness to ecu harness - deleted
My car has no abs fuse, no pins for fuse there
Instead of having a black/yellow wire for the alternator L (light) terminal, mine has a blue wire. I think this is '99 only thing since that was the only 2g year that didn't use a generator relay.
I decided to delete the a/c fan so all that wiring was removed too.
#32 is automatically moved to the interior on the fuse box harness because it is close to the fuse box. I had to move all the wires to the interior for 32 on the ecu harness.
There is one wire that goes from a radiator fan relay to 32, but it does not continue on the ecu harness, there is a plug on that side. I don't know what's up with that so I left the wire alone.


Fuse box harness
Delete:
18. Hood Switch
2 wires - pin interior C, ground
19. Dual Pressure Switch (AC)
3 wires - ecu pin 32, pin interior C, pin fuse 31
27. Evaporative Purge Solenoid
2 wires - both go to 33
43. Left Fog Light
2 wires - ground, fuse 22
44. Right Fog Light
2 wires - ground, fuse 22
45. Generator (Alternator Power)
2 wires - large white wires, unbolt from fuse box, must keep fuse in
46. Generator (Alternator)
Green - FR wire, ecu pin 41
Blue - L wire, pin interior B (keep this wire for new alternator)
Red - S wire, fuse 15 (2 wires at fuse, cut this one from other, other wire stays)
White - G wire, goes to 32, ecu harness, then to ecu 33, remove both wires
15. Condenser Fan Motor [Air Conditioning (A/C) Fan]
Black - ground
Black/blue - ground
Blue - fuse 30/31
Blue/white - fuse 30/31

After removing all that wiring, I removed all remaining wiring for fuse 11, 13, 14, 22, 26, 30, and 31. You can remove ALL wiring associated with these. To remove the pins from the relay sockets you first have to remove the yellow clips from the bottoms. The yellow clips can stay out. To remove the pins from the fuse sockets you first have to remove the white clips from the bottoms. Put these back in after removing the wires. Some wires removed the fuse box travel through 32 to the ecu harness. You can remove the wiring on the ecu harness too.

 

[cali]

wow...and i thought i had way too much time

seriously, great work!

 

[mattsGSTeclipse]

where does the fuse box harness end up in the interior?

 

[turbosax2]

Part of it goes through the passenger side fender (1 plug in interior) and the majority of it goes through the driver side fender (4 to 6 plugs, I forget off hand). These plugs go near the interior fuse box. If you get under the dash you can see them. These plugs connect the fuse box harness to the interior harnesses.

 

[turbosax2]

wow...and i thought i had way too much time

seriously, great work!

Thanks man

 

[turbosax2]

I figured out I can do a little more work on the fuse box harness. I traced back all the connectors to the fuse box, or wherever else they go, so when I stick the fuse box in the car I can route the connectors into the engine bay how I want to. Some will go through the passenger fender and some will go through the driver fender - this way I don't have any wires running under the radiator and I have the least amount of wiring in the engine bay.

In stock form, there is one connector that runs through the passenger fender into the cabin. After tracing the wires back, I realized this connector is ONLY for the abs brake unit. The 2 wheel sensors have 2 wires each, those 4 wires just run to the abs unit, then a group of other wires run from the abs unit to the single connector through the passenger fender (plus one wire runs from the abs unit to fuse 18). I kind of want to delete my abs again - look at all these wires just for the abs

I made a list of which wires will go through the driver and passenger sides. When I was moving the connectors towards the fuse box I had to cut a lot of ground wires. The way the factory grounded all the connectors is weird. There is a set of grounds near the p/s reservoir and a black grounding box behind the passenger fender. All the grounds are connected but the factory has MANY spots where the grounds are spliced together. I labeled each spot where I cut a ground wire, but when I ground them again when reassembling the wires I don't think it matters where I ground them. (98 through 95 are the factory splice points I labeled. "Fender" is the black box on the passenger fender, and DF is the ground spot near the p/s reservoir.)

Passenger side:
17. Radiator Fan Motor [Main Fan]
ground cut from 98
24. Right Headlight
ground cut from fender (middle wire)
red wire cut from 96
25. Right Combination Light (Parking)
ground cut from 97
LG/R wire still in interior C
26. Right Side Marker
ground cut from 97
56. Right ABS Sensor

Driver side:
21. Left Headlight
ground cut from DF
red wire cut from 96
22. Left Combination Light (Parking)
ground cut from 95
G/B wire still in interior C
23. Left Marker
ground cut from 95
47. Power Steering Pressure Switch
48. Horn
ground cut from fender (left wire)
49. Oil Pressure Switch (Dummy Light)
50. Oil Pressure Gauge Unit
54. ABS Hydraulic Brake Unit
55. Left ABS Sensor

 

[1992awdlaser]

Eric, you need to come to NC and eliminate my unnecessary wiring for me. If there is one thing I hate/don't understand good, it is wiring.