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My 600HP DD build by me and the Co-Workers at Strictly Import Motorsports

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TofastForU_99

10+ Year Contributor
781
10
Mar 1, 2009
Kalamazoo, Michigan
The project-------- 97 Eclipse GSX

A huge thanks to Strictly Import Motorsports (www.StrictlyImportMotorsports.com and Jeff for the Powder coating at Jeffs Powder Coating


Goals 600HP/11 sec 1/4 mile at least.......

The plan

ENGINE:
BUILT by me and Strictly Import Motorsports
6 bolt block
Balance shaft Eliminator kit
Bored .020
Decked
EVO 9 .20 over pistons
6 bolt rods
ARP main/rod/head bolts

HEAD:
6 Bolt head
Ported Polished and Knifed by Strictly Import Motorsports
Super tech springs/retainers
Viton valve seals
back cut stock Valves
SIM 275 CAMS



Drivetrain:
Stage two SHEP Transmission
Fidanza Light weight flywheel
ARP Flywheel/Clutch bolts
ACT 2600 clutch
Exedy EQUAL slave cylinder
SHEP transfer case
LSD rear
SIM Raceline Racing Axles


TURBO/FUEL:
Holset HX35
BEP housing
FP RACE Manifold
Extreme PSI oil feed and return line kit
Aremotive A1000 AFPR
FIC 1000cc Injectors
Walbro 255 Fuel pump
Tial 38mm Wastgate
HKS SSQV3 BOV
Punishment O2 housing recirculated back into 3" exhaust
ETS FMIC with 3 inch ICP

Engine Management:
DSM LINK V3
AEM Tru Boost
AEM UGEO

Suspension/brakes:
Eibach sportline springs
KYB GTR II shock/struts
Prothan Motor mounts
Prothan front and rear bushing kit
Big brake kit
Drilled and slotted rotors
Hawk pads

MISC:
COP Setup
Tuned to E85 for daily use, race gas on the drag
All Felpro Gaskets
Roll cage
Battery Relocated to trunk
ALT Relocation
Gates racing timing belt
Gates Racing ALT Belt
Gates racing Radiator hoses
Alum Radiator
EGT block off
Alum spark Plug Cover

Cosmetics:
Rear wing eliminated
VIS stock CF hood
black 18 inch rims and tires
CF front lip kit
8000k HID's
Black window tint
tail light black out
new license plate :)



I will be Posting Pictures very soon and will be updating project on a normal basis. currently are in the process of removing the 6 bolt out of the car to put in the almost finished built 6 bolt. I'm looking to have the car finished by the end of february and will be running the car at the 18th Annual DSM/EVO Shootout At Buschur racing also plan on putting the car on the Dyno. Wish me luck and any input will be helpful.
 

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i was pretty close to getting eagle rods but 6 bolt rods should be fine as long as i get the tune dialed in. and i have a good friend that is really good with link helping me out so we will see. if all else fails i just get to do another build :)
 
Dont think ill be that fast but ill be pushing it to the max.
 
yup ill get some more pics this week of the engine going together and the roll cage getting done. all i have to get to get the car on the road is DSM LINK :( and my ACT 6 puck.. I cant wait to finish this thing I miss boost so much I might even forgot how to drive a stick LOL... its been to long :(
 
Lookin good!!

One of my other cars has a pink engine block! :hellyeah:

Did you find it easier to pull the engine with leaving the transmission in the car, or do you think it's easier to pull it all as one unit?
 
yup ill get some more pics this week of the engine going together and the roll cage getting done. all i have to get to get the car on the road is DSM LINK :( and my ACT 6 puck.. I cant wait to finish this thing I miss boost so much I might even forgot how to drive a stick LOL... its been to long :(


Any reason for choice of a ACT 6-puck?? Ive never liked them personally.

Exedy or Southbend all day.
 
Looks like your main hoop is welded in straight up. I thought they had to be at a slight laid back angle?
 
Those are some great guys at DSM Graveyard!!! They built my motor this summer and installed it in my 2gb. They do great work. Ask them about the red stroker they built. BTW do you still have your stock hood around and in good shape?

-Grant

Our builds are semi similar, yours is a little more all out, but ill be in the 11's so you will have no problems...
 
yes i still hood if anyone wants it. I have had other 6 puck clutches and loved them so i figured i would go with a 6 puck sprung just to keep it more street-able. The main hoop I believe can be at a slight angle or straight up just based off what you want.
 
K, I just never really trusted ACT disks at all, after having one shred to pieces, it seems that their Pressure plates and flywheels are all that I trust.

An Act 2600, light FW, and 6-puck sprung disk is going to be really chattery in city driving, and all those damn one ways in kzoo, But still perfectly necessary for 600hp, i just dont like act disks.

Good luck I hope you reach your goals.
 
Love the build. Im planning on a holset soon on my stock 6 bolt with 2g pistons. Hopeing to make 550+whp. I read you had a stock center 2 spider gear diff? You could always have it pulled and welded for pretty cheap. Would be a very good idea. I also think it would be worth buying the larger injectors and another fuel pump. The extra cash would be worth it having race fuel at the pump all the time. People are actually having better luck with e85 than a lot of race gas.
 
Looks like your main hoop is welded in straight up. I thought they had to be at a slight laid back angle?
The prefered method is to weld it up as upright as possible, but many guys tilt the main hoop back a bit for head clearance (expecially when wearing a helmet). So either way works.

Being a larger guy myself, my mainhoop attaches to the corners of the backseat area. So, it sits back far enough to give me more clearance, and it's also mounted straight up. Best of both worlds. :)
 
Love the build. Im planning on a holset soon on my stock 6 bolt with 2g pistons. Hopeing to make 550+whp. I read you had a stock center 2 spider gear diff? You could always have it pulled and welded for pretty cheap. Would be a very good idea. I also think it would be worth buying the larger injectors and another fuel pump. The extra cash would be worth it having race fuel at the pump all the time. People are actually having better luck with e85 than a lot of race gas.

Yah by the time i get to DSM/EVO Shootout this year i hope to be running a different fuel setup like 1600 injectors a fuel cell with a bosh inline pump, along with a hx40 pro and I will switch to a t3 setup with 44mm tial wastegate. But hey im not even done with this setup and i want to go bigger :) but it has been so long with out my car and the 2001 purple plymouth breeze is starting to get to me LOL. so ill go with the current setup i have listed to get the car on the road and do a few runs and break everything in and let my bank recover a little from my build and upgrade and be ready for the dyno at the shootout :hellyeah:

The prefered method is to weld it up as upright as possible, but many guys tilt the main hoop back a bit for head clearance (expecially when wearing a helmet). So either way works.

Being a larger guy myself, my mainhoop attaches to the corners of the backseat area. So, it sits back far enough to give me more clearance, and it's also mounted straight up. Best of both worlds. :)


Yah i know what your talking about i'm a little over 6' tall and i dont even have my seat in the car yet and i looked funny trying to crawl over the door bar and between the steering wheel.... I dont know how im going to accomplish this everyday. :tease:
 
yah for sure. can you still do a door swing out kit if the door bar is all ready welded in place?
 
yah for sure. can you still do a door swing out kit if the door bar is all ready welded in place?
Yeah, you can always add it later. You just gotta cut out a large section of the door bar and just re-fit it with the hinge and lock. Should be pretty easy.
 
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