1G Motor Swap Car stalls

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Driving the car and coming to a stop with the clutch pedal in the car turns off sometimes when making turns the car turns off. when the car is idling sometimes it drops to 500 and turns off sometimes it idles fine and sometimes its at about 1500rpms could the CAS cause this?

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Ok so ive replaced the coil that originally came with the car and i turned the CAS so its in the middle and the car fires up and wont stay runing i think this is due to my vacuum lines not being hooked up. Am i right? Im going to put the car to TDC and align the CAS so its right in the middle or is there a better way to do this? Thanks to everyone who mentioned the coil packs i appreciate it guys!

 

[19Eclipse90]

Use your trusty Haynes manual and a timing light and you should easily be able to adjust the CAS. Then hook up your vaccuum lines and come back posting your next problem.

Seriously bud, if everything isn't hooked up, eliminated, or working correctly, how do you expect the motor to run right? Did you even check the ECU? Or did you rule that out when you replaced the coil?

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Well i figured there wasnt a need to check it since it fired right up with the new coil but i will check the ECU after i get all vacuum lines plugged back where they go ill check ECU just for future refrence im sorry about all the threads and i apologize all the help from you guys! The car starts and when i hold the gas pedal down it stays on but when i dont hold it maybe 2 seconds and it turns off thats my current problem but ive got to plug those lines and well go from there once again thanks guys!

 

[BUCK]

Well once you get lines properly addressed you need to adjust Base Timing & Base Idle as 19eclipse90 pointed out - IMO due to the weird ass angle we have to view the Marks from when you are squatting down & peeking thru the belts & "see" 5 BTDC you are really set at about 7 BTDC - SO when you see 2.5 BTDC it's actually about 5 IMO - I try to be in the same position/angle whenever I set mine halfway between 5 & 0 BTDC & IMO that is 5 in the real world & "seeing" 0 would be 2.5 BTDC real world IMO... BTW on my Pocketlooger I'm pulling 22 - 25 advance at WOT (Tuning guide reccommends NO LESS than 15 at WOT) & see as much as 46 degrees advance on Pocketlogger in some throttle positions - ZERO knock on 92 or 93 Octane in Winter (which of course means I could bump up Timing OR Boost) - but it runs great & I don't want to fry this old Turbo quite yet - seeing 13 PSI on POS Stock gauge.

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1g Idle & Timing Adjustment STRAIGHT FROM DSM MANUAL...

- Reset ECU 15 Minutes to clear all the crap out.

- With car off
- Ground that pin on the Diagnostic Connector
- Fully warm car up, No accessories on.
- Run at 2500 rpm more than 5 seconds
- Let idle for 2 minutes
- Adjust BISS 700-750 rpm
- Cut car off
-Disconnect Jumper at Diag Conn

- With Car OFF
- Connect Timing Jumper
- Fully warm up car - No accessories
- Check CURB IDLE is at 750 + or - 100 rpm (may take a little while to settle down being you just reset BISS)
- Set Timing at 5BTDC (which means you'd see 4 IMO due to bad angle)
- Cut Car OFF
- Disconnect Timing Jumper
- Cut car ON
- Check Basic Engine Timing 8BTDC (kinda jumps from 7-9 usually).

- AFTER setting Base Timing correctly per the above you could then "bump up" Base Idle a little (50 - 100 rpm) to help with the Fan cut-on - The ECU can pull more than you can retard! - Some of us have BOTH Fans cutting on simultaneously so that is loading your Alt more than a stock setup - Typically you can retard one degree when setting Base Timing & it idles smoother as long as Idle is close to spec - Setting it where you see 4 will make it more resistant to losing RPM when fans cut on.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

My timing belt is loose and i was playing with it and the inake cam spun a few teeth so how would i fix this problem? pull the belt align everything back up and install the belt?

 

[hopwoodp]

My timing belt is loose and i was playing with it and the inake cam spun a few teeth so how would i fix this problem? pull the belt align everything back up and install the belt?

I would check the condition of your tensioner and the pulley if it seems really loose. Look at the threads that Defiant mentioned and you will see how this is normal most of the time. I used to check this on my old 7 bolt motor and saw that there would be some slack but, if your skipping teeth then, I would see about replacing the belt and components. That is my stand on that condition. I would replace all the timing belt components just to be safe.

These are all wear and tear items and should be replaced as specified in the manual or when you see signs of wear.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Ok well ive got a new timing belt ive just gotta re do it all and install my tensioner. So can i just turn the cam back to match with the other and then slip the belt back on if everything is matching!

 

[hopwoodp]

1st make sure your parts (ie, hydrolic tensioner and pulleys) are good. This should help you out some - http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html.

Yeah, turn everything back to where it is supposed to line up and you'll be fine. Just make sure to follow the install procedures.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

I dont have the special tool is there something i can use instead of that and i dont have the battery hold down peice either! Is there another way just to compress the tensioner and do it that way?

 

[hopwoodp]

You can get a clamp or a vise and tighten the tensioner down and put an allen wrench through the holes. I just use a 90 degree needle nose pliers with a long nose to set up the tensioner pulley. I never used any special tools for the timing belt job. It may take a few tries to get this down but, after that it is pretty easy.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Well i found out my problem and replaced the coil pack and about 5 trys the car starts up and dies within 3 seconds. If i hold the gas pedal down itll run at that given rpm! My alternator is over charging and i have to replace that could this be my problem with the car dying? Ive got to replace my alternator belt and go from there. Sometimes when i go to start the car it like turns ONCE and i hear a like bang then turn key back and try again and it starts up just fine! What could be causing it to have to turn it like 4-5 times before it finally fires up?

 

[bling5tatus]

Are your timing marks all lined up properly?

 

[eclipsh]

Go through the steps: spark/fuel/air.

Sounds like you have spark.

Have you tested your fuel pressure after the rail to see what you're getting? How old is your fuel filter?

Have you done a vacuum leak test? A bad leak will cause the symptoms you are mentioning.

You should check all these items as you may have multiple problems at once.

Oh, and like stated above, check your timing.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Thanks for the replies guys! I think i have the original fuel filter since 91. If vacuum lines are un hooked could this be the cause of the problem? How would i do a vacuum leak test?

 

[eclipsh]

Have you seen those V8 commercials where they smack the dude in the head? Yeah, if you were in front of me you'd be getting forehead palm.

Yes, not having the vacuum lines connected will prevent the car from running. If you do in fact have all the lines pulled you are in deep. Those should have all been replaced and connected properly before the engine went into the car. A lot of them run under the intake manifold and are a bi*** to get at once in the car. Good luck to you on that front. You should have a diagram of the routing system in your manual or they are online.

The VFAQ site has a method for doing a vacuum test but it won't do you any good until all those lines are installed.

Go ahead and replace the fuel filter too. They are cheap and it can't hurt anything to have a new one.

No offense but glancing at the merged thread it looks like you could really use an experienced hand with all of this. You're fumbling around a lot more than you need to be. I think you need to either sit down and do some serious reading (not just on tuners) or find someone who knows more to give you a hand.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Welp looks like ive got to find somebody who can do the lines for me because i looked at the manual and im lost! Eclipsh thanks for the help i appreciate it!


EDIT: Why would it take about 10-15 turns before the car wants to fire up? During the 10-15 trys it just cranks over and then you can hear it fire up and it wont stay fired what could cause this?

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

My car will start up and die... if i hold the pedal down it stays runing could this be my ecu?

 

[dsm-onster]

Likely not. To start the diagnosis:

1. Check for boost leaks!!!!!!!
2. Check/adjust your idle settings *properly*.
3. Check plugs/wires/air-filter

 

[eclipsh]

That is most likely the vacuum leaks or the fuel pressure.

Don't give up on yourself so easily. Just trace them one at a time and try. It is time consuming but there is no reason you can't do it. Just one at a time. There isn't anything terribly technical about the lines that you have to problem solve or diagnose. It is simply attaching one end in one spot and one end in another. Trace each line individually from start to finish and you'll be done and know a little more about your car because of it.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Welp looks like ive got to find somebody who can do the lines for me because i looked at the manual and im lost! Eclipsh thanks for the help i appreciate it!


EDIT: Why would it take about 10-15 turns before the car wants to fire up? During the 10-15 trys it just cranks over and then you can hear it fire up and it wont stay fired what could cause this?

Are you kidding me? Didn't I tell you in one of your bajillion other threads that you can't expect the car to run correctly if everything isn't hooked up right or, in case of vaccuum line reduction, deleted correctly? Oh wait, it was in this thread, right here:

Use your trusty Haynes manual and a timing light and you should easily be able to adjust the CAS. Then hook up your vaccuum lines and come back posting your next problem.

Seriously bud, if everything isn't hooked up, eliminated, or working correctly, how do you expect the motor to run right?....

Apparently you don't want to take any of my advice, so I'll just butt out of this thread.