1G Motor Swap Car stalls

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Driving the car and coming to a stop with the clutch pedal in the car turns off sometimes when making turns the car turns off. when the car is idling sometimes it drops to 500 and turns off sometimes it idles fine and sometimes its at about 1500rpms could the CAS cause this?

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Nope money is low so i have to wait till the weekend then going to order it and put it in and see what happens but i was just curious to see if the alternator was doing this

 

[44pirate]

Nope money is low so i have to wait till the weekend then going to order it and put it in and see what happens but i was just curious to see if the alternator was doing this

You might have cooked another battery.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

I know i couldnt have cooked it because i tried to start it ONCE with the new battery in then took the alternator in to get it tested and yea found out it was bad

 

[timloomis]

Hopefully you didnt fry anything else. Do not drive the car if at all possible. Check all fuses and relays, and take out the ecu and make sure nothing cooked.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Man you guys arent reading my posts... i wish i could even start the car im waiting to buy a new alternator to see if thats my problem or if theres something else i wish someone would answer the questions i ask not beat around the bush!

 

[19Eclipse90]

Why don't you take down your alternator and have a new regulator put in? Your local parts store can supply you the part and any alternator shop can do this for you. It shouldn't cost more than $75. Have the rest of the alternator checked out while it's at the shop, but if it is overcharging, the regulator should be the problem. Hell you could probably do it yourself if you wanted to save an extra buck.
Beating around the bush? I think not. The results of what you've done so far could very well not allow the car to start, because of any of the reasons posted by those above. Get the alternator fixed or replaced, put in a new battery, and go from there.

 

[timloomis]

I did read your post, that's why I said check your fuses, realys, and ecu. Car will not start/run right with those things bad.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

I know but i asked if an overcharging alternator will cause the car not to start. Wheres the fuse box located on a 91 TSI?

 

[91talon27]

There is a fuse box under the driver side dash up against the kick panel. There is also a fuse box located just in front of the passenger side shock tower under the hood. There are also 3 fusible links right next to the battery under the hood. I would check these also.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Would cause the car not to start?

 

[steve]

Many will. The two main fuses for the engine are the MPI and Ignition fuses. Both on the battery positive terminal fuse block.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

So after i ####ed up my first motor i bought another and got it installed after everything was hooked up but the vaccum lines it took about 10 turn overs to start i figured it was because of the fuel that leakd out of the rail and it needed to be primed! So i blew a head gasket and replaced it now i cant get it to start period. It cranks over slow and i got my alternator tested and it came out that it was over charging... Could my alternator have messed up some fuses etc? Well please help me guys! Im going to run a compression check on thursday!

 

[Talonracn50]

we need more information in the order that it happened. Did it have problems cranking before the headgasket failure? Have you charged the battery, etc..

 

[blkwidow]

Test your battery and check your fuses. Check your grounds. If it cranks slowly then it could be either one of those. Check back and tell us what happened. If that doesn't work we'll go from there.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Thanks for the fast replies guys ive replaced the battery and going to get my alternator rebuilt by an alternator shop then check fuses and check all grounds where would the grounds be located so i can know what to look for exactly?

 

[thom2white]

Just some suggestions:

1) Set the motor up TDC and check your cam/crank timing, then your compression. That will tell you if you've bent any valves in putting the new head on.

2) Go back to the basics: Got Fuel Got Fire
Pull all you spark plugs, hook them to a test light or just lay then on the exhaust manifold (or any ground) have a friend hit the ingition and see if you've got fire. At the same time gently stick something in each cylinder to see you can smell gas. That will tell you if the fuel system is working, and if you getting fire to the plugs.

3) Good call on checking the fuses (overlooking a burnt fuse will always make life tuff)

By the way how did you blow the head gasket? By priming the motor?

The altenator may very well be bad, but if the battery is good, it shouldn't matter at this stage in the game. Just some thoughts.

Good Luck,
Thomas

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Well timing wise i think its on point because i got the car to start a couple times and it idled just fine! The battery is new and im taking the alternator tomorow to a alternator shop to see what they say Ive installed new plugs and pulled them back out and i can smell gas on them im going to check to see if they are firing tomorow too! Maybe my wires or the coil pack isnt working.

So i went and tested my fuses and in the fuse box under the dash i got fuses that wont light up! I have a test light and some fuses do and some dont so i pulled the fuses and they are fine put the working ones in the other spot and still nothing could i have a bad fuse box?

 

[1AWD90]

Did you check them with the key on?

 

[19Eclipse90]

I honestly think you should stop posting so many threads about your electrical problems. They are all electrical so they are all related, keep them in one thread. The problem with posting so many different threads is that you leave out information in the new threads that you assume people should already know from your past threads that they may have never read. I don't mean to sound like an ass, but it makes it easier and is much more helpful for the rest of us to try and help you out.

When you say the fuses 'light up' are you referring to using a test light? If so, make sure you are grounding it properly. If the test light illuminates, it indicates a drain or short in those wires running to and from the respective fuse in the box. So many things can keep your car from starting, but I don't believe the wires for the horn or blinkers are going to keep your car from starting (they could, I'm no electrical genius). What I mean is it kind of depends on what wires you are testing and which ones are lighting up.

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

Another update... the edit wont work for me so i apologize for having to post like this. I pulled my plugs and put it on the bolt that holds the strut assembly in and im not seeing any spark i only tested cylinder 1 and 2 didnt bother with the others i have new NGK plugs and could this be my wires or my coil?

 

[19Eclipse90]

Likely the coil or transistor.

Have you taken a look at your ECU?? You seem to be having all these problems all at once, check it out for any wierd smells or burn marks anywhere. Take pics if you are unsure about anything looking out of the ordinary and post them.

 

[tqmx1]

Well timing wise i think its on point because i got the car to start a couple times and it idled just fine! The battery is new and im taking the alternator tomorow to a alternator shop to see what they say Ive installed new plugs and pulled them back out and i can smell gas on them im going to check to see if they are firing tomorow too! Maybe my wires or the coil pack isnt working.

OK now you are saying it starts idles and then it must die? In so doing it must have A. spark B. fuel & C. comperssion. That leaves D. the ECU is taking a dump. Find some place out there and have the ECU circut board checked and cleaned and replace the three caps. The shop that is going to rebuild your altenator might be able to do the work or know someone that can.

As for the fuses there are a few that are switched hot and others that are hot at all times. A service manual would help with that.

Man havent you been for the last 250+ messages

 

[91TurboTalonFWD]

No no no im not saying it starts it started twice on me since the swap and the head gasket job. Today i pulled plugs 1 and 2 and had a friend hold them to a bolt while i turned it over and no spark! Could i have an ECU tested? How much do coils and transistors run and whats a transistor?


EDIT : Can someone post up a picture of the transistor i dont want to be under my hood for hours looking for something that i have no idea about! I have a Haynes manual but i do not understand could a bad transistor make it feel like a big loss of power because i was driving it and i lost like 50% of power and the car would barely pull after that it wouldnt start period could this be the coil or transistor? How do i get the ECU out? What center dash has to come out?

I Doubt that because i tried to start the car twice and maybe for 10 seconds total so i doubt the battery is cooked!

 

[19Eclipse90]

Easiest way to test the ECU would be to meet with someone with a similar car as you and swap ECUs and see if it cures your symptoms. FIRST, though, open it up and inspect for obvious damage. I've already told you what to look for. If it is damaged, you can't expect the car to run properly.
It is very simple to get out. You need to pry off the plastic caps on each of the side panels on the center console and use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the screws. Once you have the panels off, the ECU itself is held in position by 3 10mm bolts (one on the drivers side and two on the passenger side). You will know which bolts they are because they each have a gold colored tab sticking through. Once you have all the bolts out, you need to unplug the ECU (it is easiest done from the passenger side). It has three plugs with release levers, push the release lever down and wiggle the plugs out. They usually aren't the easiest plugs to get out, but they will go - no tools necessary to do this. After this is done, manuever the ECU out of the car through the passenger side.

The transistor I'm referring to is the Power Transistor Unit, which is located just below the coil by the intake manifold. It has a wide connection plug that connects to it and if the car is more or less stock without much tampering, it should have a metal clip around it (so the plug won't just pull off). You need to remove the clip to unplug the connection.

Again, FIRST - Check the ECU.

 

[BUCK]

Your Power Steering Fluid leaks at the P/S O Rings - &/or the PS Fluid mess you made during Engine swap have killed the Voltage Regulator in your Alt & fried your ECU - VERY common, about a JILLION Threads on this.