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Max safe boost? [Merged 10-6]

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Why is my jpipe connected to my blowoff value?


Why is your J-pipe connected you your "Blow off valve" or, your compressor bypass valve?

If you have a manual boost controller installed between this single line, then this is your problem.

Boost Control is controlling the air pressure from the intake system pressure to the Wastegate Actuator.


As writeen from the VFAQ's:

Turbochargers are positive feedback devices - the faster they spin, the more air they push into the engine. The more air they push into the engine, the more exhaust gases are produced. The more exhaust gases that are produced, and the faster the turbo spins.The faster they go, the faster they go! Eventually something would have to break. To prevent this situation from occuring at all, turbos have a device on them called a wastegate that limits the turbo speeds to manageable levels. This is a pressure-activated valve that opens at a preset pressure and vents additional intake pressure either to the atmosphere or back into the exhaust stream.



Now if you have nothing installed to regulate boost control, or improperly installed boost control, the turbo will spin out of control. Once the ECU detects this malfunction, your going to hit fuel cut....or you'll have castrophic failure.
To read more in depth on this situation and why it occurs, finish reading the rest of this article.

The Essential Primer on the Diamond-Star Engine Control Units - Chapter 7

Basically, what is happening is you disconnected your Wastegate Bypass Solenoid, a.k.a. the BCS, and installed MBC inproperly. This is why you would hit fuel cut so soon. The ECU is detecting a "Wastegate Malfunction" and using fuel cut as it's last resort to save the engine from castrophic failure.

If this is your case, and have always had this problem, then simply put, your MBC is installed incorrectly.

One side should connect somewhere on the "cold" side of the turbo, through your Compressor Bypass Valve, Intake Manifold, J-Pipe, Turbo Compressor Housing, or something to that effect. The opposite side will connect somewhere to the "hot" side of the turbo, meaning the Wastegate Bypass Soleniod. What your doing is "regulating" the amount of air the turbo can flow, thus causing less exhaust gasses to spin it.

Let me know your particular circumstance, and I will do my best to help you figure out what's best for you. :thumb:

Good Luck!


References Cited:

The Essential Primer on the Diamond-Star Engine Control Units - Chapter 7
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html
 
I do not have a MBC on atm. But i will be installing it today. I will take a few detail pictures of how the hose is now. And how they are hooked up after the install. Wish me luck =D
 
Ok so here is the first pictures it is the wastegate. It was hooked to the boost control solenoid.

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Picture 2

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In the second picture isnt my bov suppose to have a line to the manifold?

Picture 3

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Why do i have a white and purple wire just sitting under my hood?

Picture 4

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Where does my boost control solenoid go now..
 
Sorry but whats BCS?

I'm sorry dude but I can't view any of your pictures on the network here at work, I'm gonna have to wait a few more hours till I get home to see what you got going on here.

Read the paragraph above that I wrote, it explains the BCS. Look under the VFAQ's Keywork search index. There are all the write up's there. It's pretty much what it says. "Boost Control Solenoid" or Wastegate Bypass Solenoid...same thing. It's like a stock boost controller to put simply. If that's not working right, or you hook up an aftermarket boost controller wrong, you'll really have problems similar to what you've talked about.

Fuel cut like symptoms, hesitations, and possible damage if you push it hard enough. The big thing you'll notice if you have no boost control, or the MBC is backwards, the gauge will max right out and the car will be all messed up, meaning there's nothing to stop the turbo from spoolin to it absolute limit.

Wait until I get home later this afternoon and I'll take a look at what you've got going on here. Then we'll go from there. In the mean time, read some of those articles and see what you can do.

Good Luck! :thumb:
 
Yeah i got that my line from jpipe to wastegate is correct now..i think but i have a few other problems stated in the pic's above


Standby dude, I'll be home in a half hour or so.

Here you go man, this right here will explain everything that runs under your hood and will give you the baisc idea of how things should be. It is a complete index guide to your engine bay, showing you visually how to hook up your MBC.

virtual tour of a dsm engine - quadrant q3

Here is the article on the 1G MAF-T install. The purple wire is not used for the install, check it out and make sure your setup ok. The white wire does connect to the 1G MAS Plug, so there is part of your problem. Also ensure you have the right dial settings on the MAF-T. Finally, ensure it's mounted in a good place, and SEALED! Any water gets on that board and your Mass Air Signal is going to go hay-wire and the motor will run like crap. Check out the write-up.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/240411-1g-quick-easy-maf-t-install.html

The BOV should have a vacum line running back to the intake manifold.

Read this article and diagram on how to run your MBC. This seems like the best way for your setup because you have a flang/nipple on your J-pipe for it already.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...255354-another-proper-mbc-hookup-diagram.html



Run the MBC between your J-pipe and the Wastegate. Too easy.
Check the MAF-T, run the MBC the right way, double check and let me know. :thumb:
 
No man, your running a Manual Boost Controller. The sole purpose of the BCS is to limit the amount of boost running into the engine, it's like a stock MBC.
You'll probably get a CEL for it, so leave it plugged in, but it doesn't need vacum or anything.

Now make sure you set up the MBC right. If you install it backwards, it'll max out your boost, and you'll know you did it wrong real quick!

Just leave it alone you don't need it anymore. :)
 
Won't be any different than it is now.

You mean your setup with a MBC, and nothing to the BCS right now and are having problems?

You running a line from the BOV to the intake as well?

What do you mean different than it is now? Everything or the BCS?

You don't need a BCS with a MBC dude.

When you pull the car, what does the boost gauge do?

Alright man, I'll break it down for you.

Run your Manual Boost Controller from the J-pipe to the Wastegate.

Don't run anything to your BCS. The other side of the BCS that runs back into the intake, just plug that off.

The BOV, run a line to the left (bigger) nipple on the front side of the intake manifold.

The MAF-T, rewire the white wire to the black wire on your stock MAS Plug. Leave the purple wire alone.

That should be fine. Double check the MAFT install link I sent you to make sure the wire colors match and all that.

Once you do all this, boost leak the system and make a test drive.

If that's the way you got everything hooked up and your still having problems, you either got boost leak, or your MBC is backwards. Beyond that we'll have to figure it out from there. Let me know.

Make sense?
 
i have stock injectors and stock fuel pump not rewired im kinda iffy on doing it but im wondering what would a good safe boost level would be on a big 16g
 
From the most previous thread i've read 10 psi would be at most. some people get away with up to 14psi. My main question is why not buy the supporting mods first? (i.e. fuel pump / injectors / safc / fpr / wideband / fmic or upgraded smic ) Hell, you could buy the ssac fmic kit for $269 injectors used for $200, tect. better to buy supporting mods first as you could be sorry later, specially if you dont have a mbc or after market boost gauge. ( i also have 2 things you could use as supporting mods for the price of 1 just pm me)
 
i have a big front mount and a after market boost gauge. i need to get injectors so could i run 550's on stokc fuelpump or stock ecu maybe 510s
 
No you will need a afc or some other tuning device to compensate for injector size. The first thing you should have is a logger. Run 10 psi for now;)
 
ok cause i did the 1gswap and i havent even broken the motor in yet maybe ill jsut run 8 until teh motor ins broken in and then i might get the extremepsi fule management kit so ill be safe.
 
Ok well i have a track meet today. Big invitational about 16 schools. So ill be leaving in about 15 minutes and getting back around 6 tonight. So i hope ill have enough time to play around.

Ok so i got some good news. Took the car up to the school today. Running good about 9 psi without the mbc so i don't think ill even need to install it. I just hate the FMIC lag.
 
I have a 91 awd talon automatic car.It has the 6 bolt and is in great shape.I have installed the 450cc injectors and a m/t fwd ecu from a 91 car as well.The only other mod is the air can is opened up,it still has the 13g turbo and the oem exhaust(no cat-dtm muffler)What is a safe boost to run with the fuel and turbo i have?
I dont want to blow a head gasket or anything.
 
you could run 14psi and you should be fine.. they say 14 max on stock fuel system and a 14b and i know the 13b is smaller so you should be fine..god i remeber the slow 13b days
 
I like 13b's, they have awesome spool and can make some good power, I remember we used to say later to the 14b guys.

i couldn't agree more:thumb:. i have seen a couple of 13b powered 1G's that could just eat up a 14b or B16G powered car.

12-13 psi should be safe on your basically stock setup. open up the exhaust tract up some and add a little fuel and you'll be able to bump it up another 1-2 psi.
 
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