2G Manual ISC/BISS adjustment possible?

[Heryst78]

hi Guys

I come to you after my GST swap in my GS 2G.
Everything looks right after the swap but, my car still run between 1000 et 2000rpm

As a noob, I touch the screw BISS and now my engine doesn’t runs good.

What is the procedure for make a manual adjustment in our 2G ?
I live in France and I don’t have ECMLink.

I saw that for the adjustment I have to start the engine, unplug the ISC, turn Has I want the BISS screw to get the idle down and put the ISC back on.
Is that right ?

Thanks a lot

 

[Heryst78]

Hey guys !

Thanks a lot for helping, I resolved my problem.

So, I made a test for the ISC, for its Valor. It was great. I had an other one in my stock so I change it to test.
After, i left the engine running and I saw that my O ring, the TB gasket and the Intake manifold were dead.

When I put these parts out, I saw that the intake manifold doesn’t have a Gasket

Soooo, I changed all the gasket, and after changing all the parts, the engine runs great again !
The idle is now at 850-900tr, I’m very happy

Thanks again guys
See you from France

Have a good day, it’s the night at home ahah (9PM)

 

[shinzon]

Haha, yeah missing gaskets would certainly cause high idle. Glad you sorted it out, mate.

 

[Heryst78]

hi guys

Yesterday, I post my problem for the BISS and ISC.
Yesterday night (in France) I resolved the problem and I found a new good idle.

But tonight, I wanted to drive my GST, but I don’t have Turbo...
I have a big noise like a leak, but I looked every vacuum and hose, I found nothing...
2 days ago, I ran and the engine was good, the turbo too.

So my question, is there a link between the BISS adjustment and turbo ?
Because despite the biss adjustment, I did nothing else and before that my turbo was good...

Thanks a lot

 

[chrysler kid]

Shinzon, you have a picture of this wire on the firewall? I've never heard of it

Mottomaxx is describing using a pin to touch the wires on the connector of the IAC to ground it.

Basically I did the same thing but with a spare iac to verify my position 30 was an actual movement of my idle air control valve, and on my 2 spare throttle bodies it was non functional

Save me some time if there was actually something else or an easier way

 

[Tanro]

The blue plug on the fire wall is used to test your fuel pump by jumping it to +12v. If you ground that you just gonna make some sparks, and probably blow a fuse.

Some of the 95s, i've heard, have the timing check connector.

 

[shinzon]

Shinzon, you have a picture of this wire on the firewall? I've never heard of it

Stole this from GIS:

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From the factory they're taped behind the main harness on the firewall behind the throttle body and next to the cruise control box (if so equipped).

The blue plug on the fire wall is used to test your fuel pump by jumping it to +12v. If you ground that you just gonna make some sparks, and probably blow a fuse.

Some of the 95s, i've heard, have the timing check connector.

Nope, black is fuel pump test connector, a direct run to the fuel pump that bypasses both the ignition and the fuel pump relay. Blue is ignition timing connector; you use this to set base timing. It has wires that run directly to the PTU. Don't think it's just a '95 thing; my '96 and my '97 have both connectors. edit: proper name in the service manual for the blue connector is "Engine Speed Detection Connector, connector A-59".

 

[shinzon]

You would put the ecu in diagnostic mode by grounding the proper pin on the ecu, and Im certainly suggesting that he ground that pin right at the ecu rather than depending on a wire under the hood that may or may not be the proper wire.

I'm always eager to learn something new. How does one ground the proper pins at the ECU without disconnecting, or back-probing the harness, and without a scantool to do it through software?

 

[chrysler kid]

I've never seen or heard about the blue plug, I'll look again tonight. I'm positive I've got the fuel pump jumper on all of my cars but I've never seen the blue one, but I've also never investigated the harness for it.

Back probing the ECU connector, I took that as him saying to use a wire or tap to touch the pins in the harness right at the idle air control valve and attach to ground. At least that's what I did.

Well, until I bought another throttle body that had another IAC connector and made my own jumper to see why none ogy iac's were working, and all threw check engine lights

 

[motomattx]

I'm always eager to learn something new. How does one ground the proper pins at the ECU without disconnecting, or back-probing the harness, and without a scantool to do it through software?

You pull the side panels from your console so that you have access to the ecu plugs, you then find the proper pin on the backside of the ecu and run a ground wire to it and ground that pin, you then set your idle, whatever else you might need to do in timing mode etc and then disconnect the ground and have fun.

 

[shinzon]

You pull the side panels from your console so that you have access to the ecu plugs, you then find the proper pin on the backside of the ecu and run a ground wire to it and ground that pin, you then set your idle, whatever else you might need to do in timing mode etc and then disconnect the ground and have fun.

Awesome, thanks for the info.

Well, until I bought another throttle body that had another IAC connector and made my own jumper to see why none ogy iac's were working, and all threw check engine lights

Since both the male and female connectors are available for purchase, I eventually plan to do similar: make my own jump harness that replicates mitsu special tool MD998463.

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[Heryst78]

Hey guys

My adjustment isn’t perfect, so I will try like you said

I have already ground the blue pin but when I did that, the engine was running at 100-200rpm and adjusting the BISS didn’t change anything...

So now, I will try by grounding the pin on the ECU
When I read the ECU Pinout of our dsm, I thing I have to ground the number 4, ISC right ?

Thanks again

Up !

 

[chrysler kid]

Hey guys

My adjustment isn’t perfect, so I will try like you said

I have already ground the blue pin but when I did that, the engine was running at 100-200rpm and adjusting the BISS didn’t change anything...

So now, I will try by grounding the pin on the ECU
When I read the ECU Pinout of our dsm, I thing I have to ground the number 4, ISC right ?

Thanks again

It's been a while, but i think it's ground the blue jumper and set idle to the 750 using the throttle stop screw, then adjust the TPS setting

 

[Heryst78]

Thanks for your reply

So for you I have to adjust the stop screw ?
It's this screw ?

And so, If I turn the stop screw, my idle will move and I will adjust it at 750rpm, right ?

But i don't understand, I adjust a few weeks ago the TPS, at 0,63v when TB is closed.
Do I have to adjust the biss after adjusting the stop screw ?

Thanks

 

[chrysler kid]

Thanks for your reply

So for you I have to adjust the stop screw ?
It's this screw ?

And so, If I turn the stop screw, my idle will move and I will adjust it at 750rpm, right ?

But i don't understand, I adjust a few weeks ago the TPS, at 0,63v when TB is closed.
Do I have to adjust the biss after adjusting the stop screw ?

Thanks

No, that is not a 4g63 throttle body. This thread only applies to second generation eclipse talon vehicles with the 4g63 turbo motor

I'm not sure what that picture is, but it's not a 2 g throttle body

 

[Heryst78]

Ok thanks
I will adjust the SAS and check if the ground idle move

 

[chrysler kid]

Ok thanks
I will adjust the SAS and check if the ground idle move

What car are you working on? The picture does not look like a dsm

 

[Heryst78]

Sorry it’s for my dsm
I took a basic picture on the net

I don’t know if the SAS will have a consequence to drop my idle up to 750rpm
You know, I said that when I ground the engine runs at 200 rpm and moving the biss doesn’t change anything

Thanks