1G Timing / biss adjustment

[ROOKIE1]

Ok , so profile is up to date . I have everything reassembled . All timing marks ( cams and crank ) line up . Car starts idles wildly dies . If I give it gas it will run , although at high rpms and rough . How do I check these things with a car that will not stay running . Is a 90 Talon . New on car are arps, e316g , Stage 2 sbr head , oil pump , water pump , no bs , tensioner , tensioner pulleys , evo mani , new plugs range 6 or 7 , 20 over bore w/ wiseco 8.5-1 in block .

 

[ROOKIE1]

Ok got Tb off took it all apart . All new seals on shafts . Tension correct on spring . Going good . Then I drop the plate . Lands on edge leaves nice dent . Will not go back in slot now . Even if it did , would not seal . Does anyone sell these plates ? It is for a bastard 90 .

 

[Auto RS T]

I know the 91-94 plate and the 90 plate are the same diameter (60mm). I will check to see if they are the identical in all ways.

I have an extra 90 plate I could send you. PM if your interested.

 

[ROOKIE1]

Pm sent .

 

[Auto RS T]

The 90 throttle plate is identical to the 91-94 plate.

I went to the post office and mailed the plate out today.

 

[ROOKIE1]

Thanks Jim . I got plate installed , seals changed . No leaks at Tb . Upic good also . Licp good . The only leak I can find now is the jpipe . Where it connects to turbo . I do not see any torque specs on this piece either . It will get to @ 9 psi before it starts to whistle from there . It does go up to @ 14 , but loses it quickly from jpipe . I did switch gaskets . Had oem one on first , then a home made one . Same result . I think maybe the factory pipe is just warped enough it will not seal flat . Does this happen ? Should I just upgrade/replace j pipe ? E316G turbo .

 

[Auto RS T]

Glad to hear the TB rebuild went well. Many people have trouble sealing the j-pipe to the turbo.

You could try some rtv to seal the j-pipe flange, or maybe some thicker gasket material. I am not saying that you shouldn't upgrade though.

I use a Buschur upgraded j-pipe (actually it would be an elbow) with a gasket, it has never leaked even after having it on and off numerous times. I will add a picture so you can see how big it is over the stocker. You can still use the LICP with the upgrade, it just goes on very tightly.

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[ROOKIE1]

You could try some rtv to seal the j-pipe flange, or maybe some thicker gasket material. I am not saying that you shouldn't upgrade though.

What type of RTV . Red , orange , gray , or blue ? Oh and I ordered a cop from Sbr ( dejon ) and more gaskets .

 

[ROOKIE1]

Got cop from dejon today . Put it on before I came in from mail box . Still leaks though , not as bad . Bad leak at bov too . Fitting that bov bolts to is warped , I think . But I have done all these boost leak test on a cold car with timing @ 30* to reduce lap . Will the leaks eliminate themselves on a car at normal operating temp ? I would guess that the tiny leak at cop would disappear with the heat expansion . The other I doubt operating temp would affect . So , for that one I have tried thicker gasket material and red rtv . Can I double up a gasket ( use 2 ) ? I did start car today . It ran and even idled fine , @ 750-900 . No surge , or missing . A few minor boost leaks left , adjust the biss , set cas/timing , re-install logger , and set safc . Damn I thought I was close , but still have a long list .

 

[oldman]

You can also use RTV on the BOV flange.

Soon you will be able to help the next guy while Jim watches.

 

[Auto RS T]

Well, you could try two gaskets, have you tried the thicker cork-like gasket material? I have been sticking with the grey rtv for some time. It seems to cure faster.

and Rook, there is always a list.

 

[steve]

You can also use RTV on the BOV flange.

Just make sure not to get any RTV near or in the pressure reference hole on the flange. Plugging that hole can cause the BOV to be slow reacting and lead to compressor surging.

Steve

 

[ROOKIE1]

Ok , it has been around 700-800 miles . Everything was fine . I am not losing oil or smoking in any way . Pulls really well . Still running the 20-50 oil . I started to get some ticking up top . Pulled valve cover and saw no visible problem . Nothing loose . Performance is not affected , yet . I did install and bleed new lifters with rebuild . Can I run engine without valve cover ( without making a huge oil mess ) ? It sounds like the top left . Could be a bad or clogged lifter ? Can I remove those without taking the cams out and doing timing again ? If so , how do I test it ?

 

[ROOKIE1]

Found the vfaq on removal . How do I tell if it is bad ?