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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

ITFLYS - 95GSX 2.0L 6-Bolt Crank with 2G pistons, 1G TopEnd, with 2Gb-CamSensor and a Kiggly-CrankSensor - TD05H-Bastard 20G - E85 w 1000cc inj. ~25psi. Street driven track day car.

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Dropping the stock fan out the bottom is 3 10mm bolts on the radiator, and makes it better access. Now with a hole in the plastics I can do an alt swap on ramps, or a tall curb in the field without removing the wheels.
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I found the top fitting on the PS pump loose - probably why the alt died - the PS fluid dripped a bit.
 
Yeah, I keep thinking I'm going to bend up a metal heat shield with an air duct mount that would protect and preserve the alternator. It needs a little help.
Please retire that ancient oem fan, remember the 1000 cfm spal fan we use on our Muellerized KTM Xbow oil cooler kit? Use a modern fan and get a larger volume of air flowing is an excellent starting point. Second, the next time you visit us elders in socal, make a heat shield out of stainless steel that we always keep in stock then cover the backside of the shield with the ceramic heat shielding that is also a part of our Xbow kit.

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In today’s episode of trying not to die behind the wheel, I went to the market and back. Am I the only one who laughs at these fools out there driving? It’s the worst behavior - ever. more and more individuals are taking a lot of unnecessary risk
 
In today’s episode of trying not to die behind the wheel, I went to the market and back. Am I the only one who laughs at these fools out there driving? It’s the worst behavior - ever. more and more individuals are taking a lot of unnecessary risk
Don’t come to Florida. Most amount of idiots in a small area you’ll ever find. AND NONE OF THEM
WERE TAUGHT HOW TO F&$)ing DRIVE!
 
A single dsm cooling fan flows something like 2300CFM or 2500CFM by itself. It’s insane.
Cool, the spal fan I am referring to is only 9 inch in diameter. The much larger ones we use on GT4 KTM radiators flow a tiny bit more… When dsm’s were fairly new race and track day cars, ditching the oem fans were one of the first chess moves. Wonder how the performance of the oem fan compares to its performance new, once it has 20 years of being cooked by the turbo??
 
Wonder how the performance of the oem fan compares to its performance new, once it has 20 years of being cooked by the turbo??


I wouldn't know, I replaced the motor with a brand new one and even in the dead of Florida summer in a black car with the air conditioning running full blast it never gets above 190*.
 
Don’t come to Florida. Most amount of idiots in a small area you’ll ever find. AND NONE OF THEM
WERE TAUGHT HOW TO F&$)ing DRIVE!

This is also true if you switch Florida to Illinois and add in a secret plan by the state to collect revenue from bad drivers by making the standards to pass the test next to nothing. My niece got a 100% on the classroom test and they let her...skip the road test where you prove you can actually drive??! 😵‍💫
 
mail call - stickers arrived!
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The last inventory of stickers they had at the shop were so old the adhesive wasn’t letting go of the vinyl, so Mike W (of RRE) sent me the file - which I edited and sent for printing.
Figured I try the 8” in black and white, and the 30” in white.
 
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Cool, the spal fan I am referring to is only 9 inch in diameter. The much larger ones we use on GT4 KTM radiators flow a tiny bit more… When dsm’s were fairly new race and track day cars, ditching the oem fans were one of the first chess moves. Wonder how the performance of the oem fan compares to its performance new, once it has 20 years of being cooked by the turbo??
My first get smart move is to actually turn on the fan that is there. 🤦🏼‍♂️ The ECU only turns it on with the AC, so I think thats an easy fix to turn it on with the H2O fan. That might help move air around the Alternator. The killer is the direct radiation from the down pipe and O2 housing. The voltage regulator just boils to death
 
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Cool, the spal fan I am referring to is only 9 inch in diameter. The much larger ones we use on GT4 KTM radiators flow a tiny bit more… When dsm’s were fairly new race and track day cars, ditching the oem fans were one of the first chess moves. Wonder how the performance of the oem fan compares to its performance new, once it has 20 years of being cooked by the turbo??
Welcome John @Muellerized… it's great to see you in here. Fitting that you'd be participating in a thread like this. I'm sure Justin appreciates it. Hope all is well on the racing front, and life in general.
 
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mail call - stickers arrived!
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The last inventory of stickers they had at the shop were so old the adhesive wasn’t letting go of the vinyl, so Mike W (of RRE) sent me the file - which I edited and sent for printing.
Figured I try the 8” in black and white, and the 30” in white.
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The replacement seems to be working - I still have the BISS CLOSED, but it has been that way ever since the TB rebuild. Lately the RPM would not drop on warmup - and idle surge when cold.

Lets see how it goes now
 
The replacement seems to be working - I still have the BISS CLOSED, but it has been that way ever since the TB rebuild. Lately the RPM would not drop on warmup - and idle surge when cold.

Lets see how it goes now
I have almost the same exact thing going on... Replaced my ISC at the beginning of the year. My Biss is all the way closed too after the throttle body was rebuilt, but the car has been running well like that. The ISC Position number is not 30 and cant really get it to move by twisting it without the rpm rising past what i have i set to in ECMLink, although it does flucuate through a range while idling and driving so i know the ISC isnt dead. Wasnt sure if I should be concerned about it or not. Now that its cold, im starting to get some hover around 1500 rpms when i stop at lights. It eventually settles if i wait long enough, bu found a boost leak at the blow off valve gasket yeaterday that just needed to be tightened some, im testing today too. Really interested in your conclusions when you test out your fix.
 
Looks like my spare IAC is not solving the problem. Wondering if the ECU has suffered a degrade.

Part number: MD628051
OMG, the price for one of these is all over the map.

STM has an "Original OEM" part for $573 (too much)
OReilly's sells one from "parts direct" for $143 (not sure where that is made)
Amazon sells one from "VEHICLEPRO" for $38 (also not sure where this is made)
 
Part number: MD628051
OMG, the price for one of these is all over the map.

STM has an "Original OEM" part for $573 (too much)
OReilly's sells one from "parts direct" for $143 (not sure where that is made)
Amazon sells one from "VEHICLEPRO" for $38 (also not sure where this is made)
Rock Auto still has the Standard Motor Products AC146 and the Wells 2H1098 same as ever, around $60.
Those 2 are the good ones I know of. The AC146 is what I've had in my car for 7 or 8 years now.
If you want to see the MD628051 interchange number on their web page, pick the "Info" button, then where they show the interchange numbers pick "Show All".

ISC for DSM - Rock Auto - showing 1995 Eclipse GSX but the SMP and Wells are the same part num...jpg
 
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