Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Don't go straight water, coolant has lubrication.
That datalog is pornography.
You are 'tuned' lean. If you gave your AFPR a fat turn clockwise you'd be doing so much better overall.

Straight water cools better but is not as hogh on the boiling point. I use a 5% mix and also add water wetter. Has been the solution for many years and even when freezing temps in the UK its still fine but its close to boarder line and i rarely drive in winter / freezing temps anyway. Water and WW is the most common serup for racers. Its changed regularly vs normal coolant

 

[Justin DuBois]

The data that was live streamed to Podium from Race Capture can be animated in their PC app. This is 3 progressively improved laps from day two.

 

[CrackedDSM]

When I grow up I wanna be like Justin.

 

[We're on Boost]

The data that was live streamed to Podium from Race Capture can be animated in their PC app. This is 3 progressively improved laps from day two.

I made an attempt to label 2 of the circles on the g-map.
Did I get the numbers right?

 

[Justin DuBois]

I made an attempt to label 2 of the circles on the g-map.
Did I get the numbers right?

View attachment 753185

I tried to verify with a mouse-over - but alas the digital values of the data are not revealed in the podium app, but online using the web interface - it has a lot more... What you did looks reasonable.

Hence - New tires. The Indy 500 Firehawks, are so weirdly forgiving and slippery at the same time. The front end push was adorable.

 

[Justin DuBois]

 

[Justin DuBois]

Holy F@*g Hell this is fun - I think I just wet myself... The video channel automatically displays with the selected lap - and it synced by itself! I didn't have to align it, or provide a start point. I wonder how this is being done.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Thats better - looks like the wiring is still ok, as the backup alternator is working at the correct voltage.

 

[Justin DuBois]

1. Switch to 100% E85 - stop mixing and deal with E85 cold start issues.
2. Change oil - 15w50
3. Replace coolant with water
4. Hose clamps - find a better quality design
5. Swap in a stronger WGA spring
6. IC and cold intake ducting
7. Blue loctite on the cover bolts that move
8. Swap alternator

I learned some gaps in my take along tools by trying to swap the alternator with spares stuff from the trunk.

Spare kit:
12v air pump
tire pressure gauge
Jumper cables
Large Crescent wrench
Short channel lock pliers
Alan wrenches
CoilOver wrenches
Ratchet wrenches - 8,10,12,13,14,15
3/8” breaker bar w 21mm socket for lug nuts
Common and Philips drivers
headlamp
rags
misc washers bolts and nuts
fuses
gloves
Spare SD for Camera
Spare SD for Pilink

There are a few items to pickup - shopping list

• parts cleaner
• short 3/8” socket wrench w 17,14,12,10mm
• long 3/8” socket extension
• spark plug socket
• strap wrench
• M12x1.5 17mm lug nuts
• 17mm deep socket
• tiny common
• long sturdy common
• fat short Phillips
• dead-blow hammer
• thin short crescent wrench
• fuse tester
• pressure tester
• permatex sealant

 

[Justin DuBois]

Got some things on the list, and decided a bigger bag was prudent. Old one has a busted zipper, courtesy of my then puppy - “Rocket”

Fluids

Aaaaand - because it worked so well at the track - the back saving fuel transfer pump

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

For the bolts use nord washers or wave washers with serrated flanged bolts. Nords are best but expensive per washer vs wave washers and nords last alot longer.

I dont use them on my timing covers as never had one loosen up. Which one for you is getting loose?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Also for clamps i use these,

They are constant tension clamps. They basically set tension and hot or cold they self adjust to stay tight! Super good clamps vs murray clamps and cost less to. I have used these for years and years. Some people dont like the looks or bulkyness but function over form sometimes

 

[Justin DuBois]

Also for clamps i use these, View attachment 753528
They are constant tension clamps. They basically set tension and hot or cold they self adjust to stay tight! Super good clamps vs murray clamps and cost less to. I have used these for years and years. Some people dont like the looks or bulkyness but function over form sometimes

I was considering returning to the spring clips. These look like an interesting option.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I was considering returning to the spring clips. These look like an interesting option.

These will work great for you. Very useful in all placements

 

[Justin DuBois]

Amazon.com

I need to figure out the size for regular radiator hose

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Amazon.com

I need to figure out the size for regular radiator hose

Most silicone hoses are about a 5mm wall on a 38mm hose so thats 48mm so one that will go down about 40mm. Sometimes the smaller ones are tricky to get due to the design. So perhaps a 32-54mm sould be good and less clamp dangling out. But just check your hoses on the OD as im working the hoses i run which use a 5mm wall. Your set may differ

 

[Justin DuBois]

Most silicone hoses are about a 5mm wall on a 38mm hose so thats 48mm so one that will go down about 40mm. Sometimes the smaller ones are tricky to get due to the design. So perhaps a 32-54mm sould be good and less clamp dangling out. But just check your hoses on the OD as im working the hoses i run which use a 5mm wall. Your set may differ

Gates rubber hoses - but I do replace them more often now. I'll put a caliper on the current one that's tight, just to see.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/search/v/a/7128/automotive-car-1995-mitsubishi-eclipse?q=22906

 

[Justin DuBois]

Gates rubber hoses - but I do replace them more often now. I'll put a caliper on the current one that's tight, just to see.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/search/v/a/7128/automotive-car-1995-mitsubishi-eclipse?q=22906

43mm - I picked up 4 - 32mm-54mm size. Also I got new hoses to start off on the right foot. I'll put these "proven" hoses in the backup bin

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

43mm - I picked up 4 - 32mm-54mm size. Also I got new hoses to start off on the right foot. I'll put these "proven" hoses in the backup bin

What was you using before? I always try to use W4 clamps and smooth insides. W4 for the material but smooth insides clamp nicer and less wear on the hose its clamping to.

These tension clamps are briliant for boost hoses but anywhere they work well. Hope you like them

 

[Justin DuBois]

today we resolve an issue with the pad springs, the ones provided drag on the outside edge of the rotor! Somebody dropped the wrong part in the box

Also - inspect your remanufactured stuff carefully - I found the bleed screw had a crushed tip. I ended up re-using the one from my old caliper. Also - the threads on the bleed screw leaks air terribly, so pulling a vacuum to draw fluid into the caliper was a pain.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Finally, a pic with all the rear parts clean and good to go.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Hoses and clamps, and a an fitting wrench for the road:

More to address - left inside front axel boot puked out some grease - got to remove, clean and re-pack that eventually.

Here we have evidence from the last day at the track and the ride home.
Not bad temps for max oil/water. Max speed was on the freeway at one point, and the pressure is the lowest pressure recorded above 3000rpm

 

[Justin DuBois]

1. Switch to 100% E85 - stop mixing and deal with E85 cold start issues.
2. Change oil - 15w50 - Fixed low oil pressure when hot
3. Replace coolant with water and waterwetter
4. Hose clamps - find a better quality design
5. Swap in a stronger WGA spring
6. IC and cold intake ducting (maybe a new IC? newer tech)
7. Blue loctite on the cover bolts that move
8. Swap alternator - Fixed the over voltage issue

More service to do:
9. Refurbish rear brake calipers
10. Trim useless part off the left inside fender skirt
11. remove and inspect battery - I see leakage
12. Remove and re-pack driver side front axel - grease puked out
13. Thread repair on valve cover - lost a bolt
14. Replace radiator hoses and clamps
15. Replace large 21mm lug nuts with longer 17mm nuts.

 

[We're on Boost]

and the pressure is the lowest pressure recorded above 3000rpm

19 psi seems a little scary. I suppose that's just for an instant when you are at max cornering g's. What do you think about it?

 

[Justin DuBois]

19 psi seems a little scary. I suppose that's just for an instant when you are at max cornering g's. What do you think about it?

This is where logging oil pressure would be helpful. Assuming 19psi was at 3000 rpm, that is still an OK amount of pressure. When it is good and hot, the pressure at 850rpm is close to 1-2psi on my setup. - but the flow is still there (can see it jetting onto the cams under the oil fill cap)

Do the numbers make me feel all warm and fuzzy? aah, no. I think it's going to be different running 15w50.