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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

ITFLYS - 95GSX 2.0L 6-Bolt Crank with 2G pistons, 1G TopEnd, with 2Gb-CamSensor and a Kiggly-CrankSensor - TD05H-Bastard 20G - E25 w 1000cc inj. ~23psi. Street driven track day car.

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Super leggera when i held them were rather heavy. But i know they build for allt of normal strength. But many models so yes it is dependant on that also. For OZ money there are lighter options these days for less funds.
I love lighter - but strength is important. I have seen expensive wheels crack and die on berms. One time, a wheel on Kent Jordan's EVO, cracked a taco shaped chunk on the main hoop and thanks to whatever coating/film was on the inside finish - It was still holding air when he came into the pits.

Evo 8 6 spoke wheels are SUPER strong - stronger than the O.Z. I would say. We beat the living crap out of evo 8 wheels at the track and they held up no issues,.
 
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I love lighter - but strength is important. I have seen expensive wheels crack and die on berms. One time, a wheel on Kent Jordan's EVO, cracked a taco shaped chunk on the main hoop and thanks to whatever coating/film was on the inside finish - It was still holding air when he came into the pits.

Evo 8 6 spoke wheels are SUPER strong - stronger than the O.Z. I would say. We beat the living crap out of evo 8 wheels at the track and they held up no issues,.
Enkeis are rather stout for an oem wheel. I smashed into a curb with a team dynamics (by mistake) and it was fine and no issues thankfully.

I like the flow formed wheels but they are thinner in the main area but the strenght in spokes is not compromised so as long as no direct impact is in the inner rim/wall area it should be ok. Forged can be just as strong and some have also broken but depends on the brand.
Titan7 wheels look good and are proven to be strong ut they do weight a bit more in some setups. I guess a balance of light brakes and lighter tires will offset that though
 
Final prep for a 7.5hr road trip from Oakland to Spring Mountain motor sports ranch in Nevada. I removed the front bumper again, and improved the oil cooler clearance with some bracket modifications. Now the hose on the lower port is too long for the routing. I ordered a 180 deg 8AN hose end to make it work best. Hope it does not get here too late in the day. I really need to check the reliability on the hose before the freeway.
 
Well what do you know - If you follow their directions you can draw a track in google mymaps and upload the exported file to Podium/RaceCapture
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Did I mention the full bar at the clubhouse?
 
Well what do you know - If you follow their directions you can draw a track in google mymaps and upload the exported file to Podium/RaceCapture
A master appears...

Have one for us at the clubhouse.
 
A master appears...

Have one for us at the clubhouse.
Moscow mule and buffalo wings man.. it was just fabulous.

Hey - what does this mean - 15.1 v and my hand brake and coolant bottle light are flickering and on now constant. I think this is a voltage regulator issue?
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That's a bit unsettling being so far from home.



I don't have much to add as I have 1gs here. The gears in my head will be turning tonight thinking about it though. I've had my share of voltage issues this years so I understand the frustration.
 
Moscow mule and buffalo wings man.. it was just fabulous.

Hey - what dies this mean - 15.1 v and my hand brake and coolant bottle light are flickering and on now constant. I think this is a voltage regulator issue?
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I think this is the normal sign of alt regulator issues and basically your alt is now bad. I forget which 2 come one as its been years since mine went bad.

I think its brake and oil pressure light. But your dash maybe wired slightly differently for the water to come on. But thats where I would start with that voltage. What revs do you normally go to and volts do you see at those revs?
 
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I think this is the normal sign of alt regulator issues and basically your alt is now bad. I forget which 2 come one as its been years since mine went bad.

I think its brake and oil pressure light. But your dash maybe wired slightly differently for the water to come on. But thats where I would start with that voltage. What revs do you normally go to and volts do you see at those revs?
14.5v is what I see mostly, dips a bit under higher rpm i assume from higher spark and coil loads, but who knows. When hot maybe 13.5v, and as low as 11v under cranking load.

So - 15.1 is new
 
OK - she drove great again today - even with the voltage issue. I have data, telemetry, incar and chase video, and John Mueller already posted a live feed on face book - What a thing for a friend to do!

Anyway - you think I’m leaving Nevada without a backup alternator in the trunk. (are you out of your mind) Its packed.

Victory is parking in the driveway at home - about 7.5 to infinity hrs away.

Got to sleep fast - lots to share later
 
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Initial looks:

Engine performance - Data from a track day is gold - I can see at temp if the tune is holding. As far as proofing the big changes on the engine - Head swap success, Turbo swap success, Fiber Head Gasket is holding - Injectors and fuel regulator performing well. Oil catch can had a oz or two of liquid - so the rings seem to be holding up - I can check compression to confirm.

Boost: 15psi.
For this event I set a 70% duty cycle on the WGA solenoid, and that resulted in 15psi of boost all the way to redline. With the 1.0 BAR spring in the new WGA, minimum boost at 0% duty cycle, I got 10psi. and 100% duty cycle got 21-23psi. Good to know reference points for the future..

Knock/Fuel:
There is a lot of knock over 6K, AFR alignment to target is 11.4 vs 11.0, but the kicker is the intake temps - 174deg, and this was on a day where the ambient temps were in the 60's.
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I'm glad I de-tuned the boost to 15psi for this shakedown. 300hp was plenty enough to be getting on with. There was way more to learn on track than how much HP I could get out of the engine.
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Control of the fuel mix was more difficult. E-85 was mixed with pump gas from multiple sources, with octain from 91-94. This probably explains some of the global offset between AFRatioEst, the ZT-3 Wideband. Thankfully the knock sensor did its job and the engine held. I'll look at how to pull air from colder sources, and see if there is anything I can do to improve the IC efficiency. Right away, some ducting would help.

Oil pressure:
idle oil pressure at the OFH is measuring 0-3 psi when hot at 850 rpm, and this annoyingly triggers the low oil warning threshold set at a scary low 2 psi. It's been this way for as long as I can remember, and yet I don't think I have a oil pressure "problem" so much as I'd like the sensor to be more useful. Looking in the head under the oil fill cap, there is a stong stream of oil hitting the CAM lobes, so 0-3psi at the OFH is flowing oil to the head, not starved, and with more RPM it climbs 40-70psi etc. If I continue this way, I'll miss seeing an actual problem with an oil pressure drop at higher RPM's. Example - if I have 4psi instead of 20psi at a higher RPM, The warning light will never come on, and I'll miss it. (It's not a logged value) It's time to start treating the engine more like a race motor and less like a daily driver - so I'm going to try 15w50 and make sure to warm up the engine well before throwing RPM's at it.

Coolant:
No "issues" - other than the hose clamps needed motoring, and I'd like to find something that inspires more confidence. It got hot a couple times and the warning lights let me know it. It cooled right back down with a pause on pit lane. MORE important for a track day is to replace the coolant with water+water-wetter. I got away with it this time, but normally I'd fail tech inspection using coolant , and its time to get a real pressure tester to have in my ecosystem.

Spark:
No issues! - I need to check the gaps after all this driving.

Voltage:
Based on the examples you guys found on this forum, is seems like 15.1-15.3 is what you get when the voltage regulator can't measure itself! I believe there is a breakdown in the voltage monitoring signal (one of the pins) on the alternator - so I'm getting max charging output. Not the end of the world for a track session, but the battery might get pissed off if it is being overcharged in time. I'll swap in the spare 75amp alternator I picked up in Pahrump, and that will tell me if its a regulator or wiring harness issue.

Hardware:
Lost a bolt from the Timing belt cover at some point - I need to go over all the bolts and see what moved.

Proposed power improvements:
1. Switch to 100% E85 - stop mixing and deal with E85 cold start issues.
2. Change oil - 15w50
3. Replace coolant with water
4. Hose clamps - find a better quality design
5. Swap in a stronger WGA spring
6. IC and cold intake ducting
7. Blue loctite on the cover bolts that move
8. Swap alternator
 

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Knock/Fuel:
There is a lot of knock over 6K, AFR alignment to target is 11.4 vs 11.0, but the kicker is the intake temps - 174deg, and this was on a day where the ambient temps were in the 60's.

This log was kinda fun to look at. Thanks for posting it.
I don't know myself if full-on E85 will get rid of the knock when IATs are that high.
Will be looking forward to seeing your data after getting the fuel switched over!
 
This log was kinda fun to look at. Thanks for posting it.
I don't know myself if full-on E85 will get rid of the knock when IATs are that high.
Will be looking forward to seeing your data after getting the fuel switched over!

Wouldn’t that be nice if it did eliminate the knock? The switch to E85 is coming 10 years behind my kin. It makes even more sense for economic and fuel management convenience, as well as a path to more overall power. I just need to commit.
 
Here are a couple shots from my phone - I’m gonna start processing some clips, and see if I can add telemetry data with the ecu data and render the clips with overlay.

For now -

John has a blue 2003 Evo behind the eclipse
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Pic of a TV of the back of John’s head - LOL oh yeah thats Padawan me trying not to embarrass myself in front a master Jedi in the video review.
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I did not succeed - and maximum embarrassment was assured.

This view on the 127 leaving the desert
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The switch to E85 is coming 10 years behind my kin. It makes even more sense for economic and fuel management convenience, as well as a path to more overall power. I just need to commit.
This reminds me of a conversation I had with Brett (GST with PSI) in 2017 about E85 in California. He said it is cheaper than the lowest grade pump gas, is available everywhere, and is pretty much guaranteed to be full-on E85, not E70 or any of the winter blend stuff that we get elsewhere. So I think he never even bothered to do flex fuel. It's just tuned for E85 period.
 
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