Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

[Justin DuBois]

Gotta ask why use a substitute? 134a is available and cheap

I'm guessing planning for the future. California is strict AF as to what can be shipped into the state and what can't. A lot of guys have trouble even getting car parts from out of state vendors(like tuners, external wastegates, etc).


Or maybe he just wanted to. I'm curious as well.

To be honest - it was my error when selecting it. ZeroR would have worked great, but the valve that punctures the can that came with the kit leaks. I could not fix it.

The kit also came with another valve that is for cans that self seal, so I picked up 2 - 12 OZ cans of real 134a from AutoZone.

I didn't have to weigh or check temperatures, cause two 12 OZ cans filled it to 24 OZ. good enough for today. I'll order another piercing valve and keep the ZeroR cans for another time.

 

[CrackedDSM]

To be honest - it was my error when selecting it. ZeroR would have worked great, but the valve that punctures the can that came with the kit leakes. I could not fix it.

The kit also came with another valve that is for cans that self seal, so I picked up 2 - 12 OZ cans of real 134a from AutoZone.

I didn't have to weigh or check temperatures, cause two 12 OZ cans filled it to 24 OZ. good enough for today. I'll order another piercing valve and keep the ZeroR cans for another time.

Sucks to hear, but good it worked out.


Semi-related: but I learned today that certain cans/brands of keyboard cleaner is actually a Freon variant that's non-flammable and works as good as R12. R152 or something like that. Gonna try it out on my old R12 system and see how she does. You saying the piercing valve reminded me I need to buy a side-piercing tap for the cans of keyboard spray.

 

[Justin DuBois]

This valve sucked -

Well, that can didn’t make it all in, and with a leak, I could not be confident that the volume was correct.

So I started over and evacuated the system then used 2 cans of real 134a refrigerant.

The compressor now cycles and the air is pretty cold.

 

[Justin DuBois]

The low pressure seems high 40psi, and the high pressure seems low 90psi. I’ll see how it goes. The compressor wiring worked, but I wonder if being 4 oz low is contributing to low differential.

 

[CrackedDSM]

The low pressure seems high 40psi, and the high pressure seems low 90psi. I’ll see how it goes. The compressor wiring worked, but I wonder if being 4 oz low is contributing to low differential.

My dad would always put in a couple of extra oz "for the lines" in R134a systems. He might be a cracked out drug addict now, but automotive A/C systems were his bread and butter back in the day. He'd routinely test his R134a systems and get it blowing out of the vents down into the 30's. Won't hurt to put a couple oz more in there.

 

[Justin DuBois]

This is with the compressor running, after putting in at least 6 more oz.

Check me - I think this is close to spec
28/105 ? Ambient temps are 60deg , so I’m kinda off the reference chart i found

 

[Justin DuBois]

Where am I today...

 

[Dericsh]

This is with the compressor running, after putting in at least 6 more oz.
View attachment 748160
Check me - I think this is close to spec
28/105 ? Ambient temps are 60deg , so I’m kinda off the reference chart i found

Looks good to me. Run it like that and see how it performs.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Looks good to me. Run it like that and see how it performs.

Used it today - working well.

Also - I need to check out the Cruise control... meant to do that last few times out, but I never think to use it.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Used it today - working well.

Also - I need to check out the Cruise control... meant to do that last few times out, but I never think to use it.

How's the temps out of the vents? Glad to see ol' pops advice still coming in clutch well from his less-druggie days. I'm so insanely envious of your working A/C. There just always seems to be something that pops up on ol' AMS that takes priority right when I think I'm gonna do it. I've got all the stuff to (at least in theory) get it to work(Seals, new dryer, compressor, bracket, belt, etc) but yeah.


What's up with the cruise control?

 

[Justin DuBois]

How's the temps out of the vents? Glad to see ol' pops advice still coming in clutch well from his less-druggie days. I'm so insanely envious of your working A/C. There just always seems to be something that pops up on ol' AMS that takes priority right when I think I'm gonna do it. I've got all the stuff to (at least in theory) get it to work(Seals, new dryer, compressor, bracket, belt, etc) but yeah.


What's up with the cruise control?

It measured 43deg with the ambient temps in the 60's. I want to check it when the weather is a bit warmer.
Cruise control - Power light won't stay on

 

[Justin DuBois]

I was getting confused - the data plots in the car were graphing different than the data plots on my Macbook. I found my graph range for AFREst and LinWB were not the same. Thankfully this has no effect on the way WBFactor is calculated, only how the lines overlap - so at least my SD edits were going in the right direction. Boy, that knock at 6k is showing itself consistently. Max boost increased, and I needed just a little more global fuel.

Now I am adjusting cells I have not reached before.
Also, and my cruise control will not engage. I need to open up the trouble shooting manual to see what it says.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Since my last update, Whole bunch of life stuff happened. I spent 2 weeks with my sister addressing a new living situation for my Dad. Its been very stressful, but at least now he is safe, and happy, and we are getting the support for him that he needs.

DSM problems seem so simple in comparison.

Getting out for a drive now and again this Thanksgiving week has been a good distraction.

I have a couple goals:
1. replace the oil cooler and oil lines
2. remove and refinish the PS pump cooling pipe
3. rework the rear camera mount so its mounted internally, and not bolted to the license plate
4. Upgrade the WG actuator with a stronger spring. I want to see how much more boost I can squeeze out of this TDO5-20g
5. More E85 - I’m hitting a knock wall above 6k, and I’ve already pulled timing back a couple degrees. Time for more octane.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Been driving quite a bit - and tonight I did look over the engine bay and drained my catch can.

Not much in the catch can, but there was a mix of oil and some-other clear-ish liquid. Happy to say the AC system is still charged, and the engine bay is staying clean! No new leaks detected.

 

[CrackedDSM]

So envious of the A/C.

 

[Justin DuBois]

So envious of the A/C.

You can do yourself - I’m proof of that.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Put her up on stands, 4 wheels off, and removed the front bunper so I can measure the Oil cooler for replacement.

And then I found the sticker that answered so many questions - 8AN

 

[Justin DuBois]

I should be able to find some more boost with one of these.

And now that I think on it, I can perhaps find even less boost for VE map tuning purposes.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Because... (whisper) track day (shh shhh shutup sush!)

Now the clock starts

 

[Justin DuBois]

Count down continues:

To measure the rotor to make sure I get the right one - 328mm (12.91”) the caliper has to come off.

This is the original StopTech DSM vented floating hat rotor, and it you can see the slots are almost warn flat.

I’m gonna half ta measure ya…

Track day pads

Refresh parts:

Might as well remove the radiator, and put this in play.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I held onto a set of rears that I had turned:

DSM life

 

[Justin DuBois]

I did need to clock the top of the actuator to avoid interference with the turbo intake.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Now that I can see the AC condenser well, I noticed the vibration bushing on the feet was really corroded, falling apart, and it must have self destructed when the AC shop tried to back out of bolt from the embedded nut that is inside the bottom half.

So I replaced the bolts, nuts, and washers with stainless, and inverted the bolt setup so it works like a nut on stud.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I picked up a 4 1/2” abrasive pad for the angle grinder, and went at the turned rotor taking down the rust scale. Next, 30min of rustoleum, rust dissolving gel. And finally a scrub down to remove the gell residue in a pan of water with a red Scotch-Brite pad.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Front Rotors will be a track day update, and the rear brake calibers are due to arrive in 5 days. For now I cleaned up the rotor hats and hubs with a combination of stainless steel brush on a drill, and a nylon stripping wheel. Amazed to learn the stainless wire did a great job on the rust and brake dust on the hard anodized hats. The Nylon was actually more aggressive and starting to scratch. I should be able to put the front end back togeather today, and get the cleaned up rear rotors on. Not sure I will put the old rear calipers back in place or not. I might as it would be handy start setting up the boost control with the new 1.0 bar WGA.