Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

[Justin DuBois]

How much did that alternator refurb cost you? I'd actually think about sending that guy one of my old alternators. Shipping though, ugh.

$110 - I dunno if he accepts delivery's, but if you have an industrial area near your city, look for an Alternator specific shop. Better to walk in the door on these tiny places.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Adjusting SD for Bastard 20G vs Big16G

Here we have minimum boost pull:

Here we have a maximum boost pull:

Noice the LinWideband results are a little off from the AFR direct access targets (AFRatioEst). With the Bastard 20G Turbo upgrade, the VE table needs a little update. Using both Min/Max pulls, I copied the VE table into XL. Every 500 rpm, I note the WBFactor with a colored highlight, and as I scroll through the log, I also note where the ECU is highlighting fields used between each.

On a second tab I modify the VE table, adding the WBFactor to the fields that were covered during the pulls. After that, I copy and paste the rough edits into ECM Link, and then apply some interpolation between adjusted fields and the surrounding fields - with a best guess on fields in-between.

The result is a new smoothed table, ready for another run.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Fanboys
Before:

After

 

[92Turbski]

Fanboys
Before:
View attachment 743221
After
View attachment 743222

Oooohhh, nice! Factory fresh!

 

[Justin DuBois]

Oooohhh, nice! Factory fresh!

When something works, I like to let it keep working for as long as possible. ;-)

Rich just keeps making stuff more awesome!

 

[Justin DuBois]

A word about AC repair.
If you take your car to an AC shop - you may face the following.

A odd choice
$300 for diagnostics
or
$199-$399 to evacuate and charge

Who chooses diagnostics? - If you do a re-charge, they will likely find (like in my case) a leak that is causing the issue.

At this point - they will start lining up all the labor and parts charges to fix it. They won't let you provide your own parts, and the ones they can order (which takes time and delays) are top dollar new parts if they can get them. Shop rates are high, and the parts and labor to replace each component can quickly grow to $3000 if you let it, and your car sitting in their shop for days waiting on parts.

Save yourself this headache. Take the car back, source and replace the parts yourself - then take it to a shop that will evacuate and charge the system - cross fingers you did a clean job, and see if it sticks.

 

[Justin DuBois]

A word about AC repair.
If you take your car to an AC shop - you may face the following.

A odd choice
$300 for diagnostics
or
$199-$300 to evacuate and charge

Who chooses diagnostics? - If you do a re-charge, they will likely find (like in my case) a leak that is causing the issue.

At this point - they will start lining up all the labor and parts charges to fix it. They won't let you provide your own parts, and the ones they can order (which takes time and delays) are top dollar new parts if they can get them. Shop rates are high, and the parts and labor to replace each component can quickly grow to $3000 if you let it, and your car sitting in their shop for days waiting on parts.

Save yourself this headache. Take the car back, source and replace the parts yourself - then take it to a shop that will evacuate and charge the system - cross fingers you did a clean job, and see if it sticks.

She’s back safe at home, and the AC is working! I guess they decided my complaints about parts pricing were valid. Every part from their supplier was double (or more) the price you can find online from mainstream sources like Autozone, or O’Reilly's.

When I had finally had enough, and said No to their estimates, and asked for the car back, They said “but its all apart, you will need a tow truck” - I countered- “I will put ‘that car’ back together myself!”

Employee finally said, I will contact the Manager, who called me to resolve it.

And he did resolve it. The correct condenser arrived, they put it all back together, they charged the system and the AC works again.

What they did not do was charge me for a dryer, but the condenser was 200, instead of 100. Labor is still outrageous, but it is in every shop. Hence, for people like us - find a way to do it yourself.

Stay curious out there - ask good questions.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Fan - installed - and tested!

and from below

I took a moment to look over stuff. Replaced a missing down pipe bracket bolt - (hmm, where’d that go?) and I see there is a bit of oil on the turbine housing to cartridge clamp. (hmm, wipe that off, and see if it returns) Ah, well now. Ever since the head swap and the turbo upgrade, I’ve been seeing oil smoke in the exhaust occasionally. Now I think the turbo more than the head as the source.

Next is the final shakedown before 300mi of California summer highway driving.

Oh man - I hear leaking from the upper AC condenser pressure hose. Yeah - I'm not going to have AC much longer.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Ugh - abort - No trip to LA this weekend. I'll keep the AC Parts Search going.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Playing with boost to get to different parts of the SD VE table. I wanted to cross over the 98-99 VE peak with a couple pulls, and I made a small tweak to global fuel just to be sure I am dialing in the table in the right direction.

This was 50% duty cycle boost control ~14.6psi boost

I made some more calibration adjustments - especially in the low RPM area between 2-3K. I over shot it a little. Its hard to control between 2k and 2.5K

This was 60% duty cycle for boost ~15.6psi

 

[Justin DuBois]

Tri-Valley hose in Livermore CA has my old hoses, and is going to referb them.

Tri Valley Hose

Your source for custom industrial, hydraulic, and automotive hose assemblies for any application!

www.trivalleyhose.com

 

[Justin DuBois]

I'm going to try and get a new compressor from these guys:

Cool Air Parts | Auto AC Compressor | AC Hose | Condenser | Drier | Radiator |

Buy Automotive A/C Parts including AC Compressor, Condenser, Evaporator Core, Hose, Radiator and more. All at an affordable price.

www.coolairparts.com

 

[Justin DuBois]

Hoses ready for pickup,
New China made compressor arrived, and I need to transfer over the wire harness from the old one.

Can you fish the thing out from the top? or is it better to go out the bottom removing the down pipe, or is there a gap to the wheel well?

 

[m_0ney_pit]

I just went through the compressor swap on my GST. The car has a 7 bolt though but yea I was able to fish it out through the area between the L strut tower and engine. Almost started taking the battery out to run under the IM and R strut tower but it worked fine. Need to unbolt the brake fluid can and the clutch fluid can as well as the PS lines and unplug all the wiring in that area and it is super tight best have a beer first.

 

[r3dmak]

Soo, was the ac leak came from the ac line joint where rubber o-ring sits or somewher along the line itself? I'm planning on putting ac back in my car and was thinking about using my old lines with new o-rings, i do have new ac compressor, dryer and condenser.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Soo, was the ac leak came from the ac line joint where rubber o-ring sits or somewher along the line itself? I'm planning on putting ac back in my car and was thinking about using my old lines with new o-rings, i do have new ac compressor, dryer and condenser.

In my case, there were 2 leaks detected so far. The condenser probably took a hit from a rock, and had a leak, that was replaced. The upper hose had a leak in the hose itself, right where the hardline is crimped onto the rubber near the PS pump. My hoses are original 30 year old rubber, so this was not a surprise. Since the system had lost it’s charge, I decided to pull both rubber lines and have the rubber replaced.
I did not find leaks at the o-ring connections, but I will be using new o-rings.

The components I did not replace are the hard-lines, and the AC core in the dash.

Justin

 

[GST with PSI]

Adjusting SD for Bastard 20G vs Big16G

Here we have minimum boost pull:
View attachment 742617
Here we have a maximum boost pull:
View attachment 742618
Noice the LinWideband results are a little off from the AFR direct access targets (AFRatioEst). With the Bastard 20G Turbo upgrade, the VE table needs a little update. Using both Min/Max pulls, I copied the VE table into XL. Every 500 rpm, I note the WBFactor with a colored highlight, and as I scroll through the log, I also note where the ECU is highlighting fields used between each.
View attachment 742616
On a second tab I modify the VE table, adding the WBFactor to the fields that were covered during the pulls. After that, I copy and paste the rough edits into ECM Link, and then apply some interpolation between adjusted fields and the surrounding fields - with a best guess on fields in-between.

The result is a new smoothed table, ready for another run.
View attachment 742633

LinkTools was an awesome tool that used to do some of this work for you. Have you messed with it at all?

 

[Justin DuBois]

I just went through the compressor swap on my GST. The car has a 7 bolt though but yea I was able to fish it out through the area between the L strut tower and engine. Almost started taking the battery out to run under the IM and R strut tower but it worked fine. Need to unbolt the brake fluid can and the clutch fluid can as well as the PS lines and unplug all the wiring in that area and it is super tight best have a beer first.

2G intake manifold?

LinkTools was an awesome tool that used to do some of this work for you. Have you messed with it at all?

No, I never got into that. Is that an XL based editor?

 

[m_0ney_pit]

2G intake manifold?

Yea 2G , distance from intake manifold flat to strut tower is close to 6” on the GST. Measured my TSI because it has a 6 bolt and 1g IM and it is about 5.5” but some of that maybe engine mount position variation

It may work, I don’t remember how close it was just that I was cursing a lot and it didn’t look like it would fit taking it out under by the axles.

 

[Justin DuBois]

LinkTools was an awesome tool that used to do some of this work for you. Have you messed with it at all?

Does LinkTools still exist?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Yea 2G , distance from intake manifold flat to strut tower is close to 6” on the GST. Measured my TSI because it has a 6 bolt and 1g IM and it is about 5.5” but some of that maybe engine mount position variation

It may work, I don’t remember how close it was just that I was cursing a lot and it didn’t look like it would fit taking it out under by the axles.

I measured about 6" from my 1G IM, to the DS Strut tower - and the brake lines next to the tower are inside those 6". I'm going to try clearing a path here.

1. unbolted the throttle cable
2. disconnected the coil pack spark wires (left it in place)
3. disconnected the fuel return hose from the fuel regulator at the rail
4. disconnected the engine wiring harness that wraps around the end of the IM
5. unbolted the brake fluid reservoir, tilted it out of the way.

 

[Justin DuBois]

6. remove bracket on front sub frame holding the PS pressure hose
7. remove 95/96 cam and crank sensor plugs from the upper timing belt cover

unbolt tensioner
unbolt compressor
clock compressor pulley up (fluid may spill)
wiggle the thing out - push PS hose out of the way

vacancy

on the floor at last

 

[Justin DuBois]

Here is the early 2G bracket

 

[Justin DuBois]

Adapting plugs onto the new compressor:

 

[Justin DuBois]

O-ooh yes - worth the wait to get the AC bracket cleaned up and coated, along with a set of hoist lift brackets, and a PS hose bracket.

Should have everything in hand to get driving again. I’ll have to find a AC recharge service.