Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

[Justin DuBois]

@Justin DuBois FWIW running a sheetmetal intake is the only reason I switched to a COP setup. I haven’t had any problems with mine since I switched. I’m using 300m coils.

As long as your valve cover has all its mounting points still intact and not missing half the threads.

-Daniel

Where does one shop for COP setups?

 

[delta448]

Spark Tech has some nice options.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Spark Tech has some nice options.

That's handy. I also found this:https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/coil-on-plug-wiring-and-install-with-pics.290665/

 

[99dsmer4g63]

That's handy. I also found this:https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/coil-on-plug-wiring-and-install-with-pics.290665/

That’s pretty close to my setup. There was a guy on eBay years ago offering that exact thing except I opted for a plain jane wrinkle black cop plate.

-Daniel

 

[CrackedDSM]

I have seen some 1G Guys just cut up the bracket. You only should have to notch it, and if you wanted from there just box it/have someone weld it. But I've never seen a cut bracket bend. The 1G guys have to grind the lower tab of the intake that the coil pack mounts to, and cut the intake manifold bracket, just to fit the A/C compressor so I've seen it done.

The coil pack bracket though, I'd honestly just relocated it. You could probably get a custom one fabbed up fairly cheaply. If you've got access to a MIG, just make an H out of some cheap bar stock, drill/tap holes, and move your 2G coils onto the bracket. Should be fine.

Don't use the coilpack that came with it. It's a 90 DSM style and is supposed to work in conjunction with the OEM 90 Tach Filter.

Or just go COP. I myself like a good COP setup, but if you're trying to look OEM-ish, wouldn't be too hard to find an OEM looking spot for the factory coils on the intake itself.



P.S. those scratches and how beat up the paint on the Cyclone looks hurts my heart, deep into my very soul. I worked so hard on that paint. F*ck USPS and their employees. I said what I said.

 

[Justin DuBois]

P.S. those scratches and how beat up the paint on the Cyclone looks hurts my heart, deep into my very soul. I worked so hard on that paint. F*ck USPS and their employees. I said what I said.

I feel ya on the paint, but don’t despair. This unit is going to be completely stripped and powder coated with new gaskets and shaft seals.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I feel ya on the paint, but don’t despair. This unit is going to be completely stripped and powder coated with new gaskets and shaft seals.

Rich is about to make it look incredible. That's exciting. Gonna go with the same black/red?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Rich is about to make it look incredible. That's exciting. Gonna go with the same black/red?

It’s going to depend on how well it strips down. The factory silver aluminum look would work quite well here, the only thing is, I already went with black on the throttle body

 

[CrackedDSM]

It’s going to depend on how well it strips down. The factory silver aluminum look would work quite well here, the only thing is, I already went with black on the throttle body

Here's how it looked before I painted it. I did a little smoothing(mainly on rusty parts/oxidized spots) but it wasn't like bead blasted or anything.

Hopefully that gives you an idea of what's waiting underneath.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I have a backup TB…. hmmm

 

[Stapl3]

The whole COP thing has been going on for 20 years now with mediocre results. All that happened was someone figured out that they worked and everyone went for it because it wasn't stock and was visually better. That was the only two criteria for doing the mod. BUT, they sucked compared to stock and needed an ignition box to make work acceptably. Big red flag. Meanwhile the stock coils paired with an ignition box has gone 8s and supported 4-figure power numbers.

Keep in mind we cannot adjust dwell with the stock ECU, so the mod is kinda like throwing in some weird aftermarket 450cc injectors on a car with a stock ecu and no piggy back, then using an ignition box like a safc just to make things normal again. I really don't see a benefit and would be shocked if you did it Justin.

 

[Justin DuBois]

When the Evo went with it - I thought - hmm. The heat on the head is bad enough, and then to put a coil there? I thought - hmmm, that better be some quality engineering to hold up.

Today its really just an idea for how to address the limited space. I'll have to address that eventually

 

[Justin DuBois]

Rob’s head arrived yesterday in time for me to deliver it right to the machine shop.

Valve seals arrive today

 

[Justin DuBois]

Looks like the first thing I need to move out if the way is the vac hose array, then I can start trimming.

 

[Justin DuBois]

The machine shop 1G head has returned populated with the 1G valves and Evo springs with spacers. I will need to extract a broken exhaust stud from one corner. Sam at Bay Area Cylinder Head is only charging me for the replacement core

I have two scrap 1G heads here - not sure what to do with them.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I snapped an extraction tool off in the stud I’m trying to remove.

I’m going to see if I can do any worse tomorrow.

Any idea what this 1G head came from? Never seen a regulator like this one.

And its not I and E, but L and R on the cam caps.

 

[m_0ney_pit]

When I ran a cyclone , used a 2g coil slightly modified above the actuator. It needed a small support made from aluminum and the plug wires were a little leggy but it worked really well and had acceptable clearance. Used a t25 actuator under where the CP is mounted. Your going to love the cyclone when boost comes on it totally changes the flavor of the pull.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I started to get some of the broken tool out of the M8 stud with 1200rpm tungsten carbide bit on a Dremmel, but given the lack of control on the outcome I decided to stop and take the head back to the machine shop with M10 studs for the corners.

I showed Sam the mess I made worse, and handed it back to the pro for the stud extraction and upgrade.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Head replacement - head studs are fixed and head is ready for pickup!

The spare has not been pressure tested yet - but that is next. I hope it turns out to be good.

 

[Justin DuBois]

The head is back! - I've reached step 3

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/itflys-1gina2g.532766/post-153914711

The broken exhaust stud was repaired to an M8 stud. I guess that was cheaper than installing two M10 upgrades? and I cleaned up the gasket and bolted on the intake manifold. I see I will need some leveling washers if I'm to use the 2G hoist bracket. The 1G manifold is a little different than the 2G here, its not flat on the backside of the flange.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I think it will go like this:

 

[Justin DuBois]

Heh, after playing around, I think the best way is to use one washer between the bracket and the head, and bend the bracket to make the bolt holes sit flush

 

[Justin DuBois]

Step 1 - remove rt foot shoe.

Nobody talks about how lifting the head into the engine with the car on stands is done.

I put a stool underneath in the gap between the radiator and turbo, so that I can stand on a chair and slide a shoeless foot into the gap to stand on the stool, straddling the front bumper.

Then I can crouch down and lift the top of the engine onto the block, while using the head stud holes as a site line for the dowel pins.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Its torque wrench time!, trad jazz on the phone, and got a big grin.

 

[Justin DuBois]

What is the torque wrench setting for the 4 - ARP Exaust mani to Turbine mani bolts?
STM - ARP Bolt Kit
STMKIT-TMBK-BKDSMOE

Stock is 55-65nm

and I checked them, clicks at 60nm - no movement. That means I already exceeded that with a hand wrench.