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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

ITFLYS - 95GSX 2.0L 6-Bolt Crank with 2G pistons, 1G TopEnd, with 2Gb-CamSensor and a Kiggly-CrankSensor - TD05H-Bastard 20G - E85 w 1000cc inj. ~25psi. Street driven track day car.

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What is the torque wrench setting for the 4 - ARP Exaust mani to Turbine mani bolts?
STM - ARP Bolt Kit
STMKIT-TMBK-BKDSMOE

Stock is 55-65nm
View attachment 740457
and I checked them, clicks at 60nm - no movement. That means I already exceeded that with a hand wrench.

Post #5
 

Post #5
yay! thank you. 44ft lbs, Probably should reset these before a heat cycle.
 
The time suck turns out to be health.
1. Everybody home stressed out for school start
2. Kid goes to school, gets a cold.
3. Wife gets cold
4. I get the cold, kid back to normal energy
5. Wife and I are loosing sleep, missing work - and generally miserable

No time for car stuff, I mean, there is time... but my head hurts if I lower my head, and I need to change the oil.
 
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VC, Water Neck, engine harness, TB, fuel supply, intake pipes, lower heat shield etc… Here's a tip on the heat shields - when in direct contact with cast iron, the galvanizing on the stock tin corrodes, and starts the rust. Its a PITA, but use two SS washers - one on the inside and one on the outside of the tin - it will reduce the rust, and extend the life of the shield.
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Left side of the engine is all plumbed. Bout the only thing left is timing belt, covers, accessory belts, and finishing with the motor mount and coolant.
 
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Gave it a try - swapped coils once.


Plugs are wet, smells like fuel. Burned them dry with a torch. Still not quite there. Gonna pull the injector connectors and crank some more to see if it will catch on.
 
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Flooded, so I disconnected the injectors. Cranking with no fuel and it fired! and sputtered out.

Brilliant - so I hook up the injectors again, and this time she catches on her own.



There is something wrong with the ECU coolant temp sensor. It starts off really cold, which explains the rich condition, and it gets to about 150 and then sits there. The Stack gauge coolant temp reads 70’s COLD and 223 HOT. (seems normal)

Looks like my sensor and connector replacement did not work, I think I’ll have to try the old one.
 
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Left sensor is new - and wrong - readings are colder than reality ~75 deg f- off

Right sensor is old — and much closer to reality - Stack and Mitsu differ by ~10 deg f

With a functional coolant sensor, Things started behaving much better, idle control, close loop fuel trims etc.
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🥹 so pretty - and running again 🥹
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Voltage
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My O'Reilly 90amp alternator just gave up a slow death. 11.8-12.5v - 13v if I'm lucky.
I pulled it , and took it down to be rebuilt. https://ascalternatorsstarter.com/ All this guy does is build starters and alternators. Figured he was worth a shot. He's going to see if he can build a 105-110 amp version.
 
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Voltage
My O'Reilly 90amp alternator just gave up a slow death. 11.8-12.5v - 13v if I'm lucky.
I pulled it , and took it down to be rebuilt. All this guy does is build starters and alternators. Figured he was worth a shot. He's going to see if he can build a 105-110 amp version.
That’s a good idea. It will probably be much more reliable after a pro rebuilds it.
 
Hah, so do I 🙃

I was picking his brain about difficulties of removing the OEM fan motor from the assembly, when he casually mentioned he just did it to PC it for "someone" and I immediately know who would do that or even want it done. :p
 
When they checked the Alternator, they found under load it was only putting out 30amps. This explains why my battery would never charge while driving.

Installed:

Now that looks better:

How much did that alternator refurb cost you? I'd actually think about sending that guy one of my old alternators. Shipping though, ugh.
 
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