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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

ITFLYS - 95GSX 2.0L 6-Bolt Crank with 2G pistons, 1G TopEnd, with 2Gb-CamSensor and a Kiggly-CrankSensor - TD05H-Bastard 20G - E25 w 1000cc inj. ~23psi. Street driven track day car.

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I clean off the PC on the faces that get squished by bolt torque. I learned that PC gets soft when it gets hot and this can make things loose. Also, chased the threads.
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Now for the install,
Bracket first, then carefully work the compressor into the gap, zip ties to hold that pesky PS pump hose back.
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4 bolts in
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Tensioner, belt tight, 1st hose on, PS bracket back on.
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Good test drive!
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No AC yet, but at least I can enjoy the cool weather. OSH did not disappoint. I was able to locate rubber grommet for the stock FP solenoid bracket. It’s been years since that was hanging correctly.
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Well, the economics of AC repair by service provider is pretty bad. I decided it was worth it to buy a double gauge recharge kit with vacuume pump and 6 cans of refrigerant for ~$200

I figured its worth failing for less than the shop fee, and I will eventually figure it out.
 
Well, the economics of AC repair by service provider is pretty bad. I decided it was worth it to buy a double gauge recharge kit with vacuume pump and 6 cans of refrigerant for ~$200

I figured its worth failing for less than the shop fee, and I will eventually figure it out.
You got it, man. Youtube!
 
I'm sure you know how to vacuum/test an A/C system, so I won't patronize you with info you already know. But it always astounds me how sneaky/OEM this car's engine bay looks. Especially considering what it is and how much it will rip on full kill. Love it.
 
Well, the economics of AC repair by service provider is pretty bad. I decided it was worth it to buy a double gauge recharge kit with vacuume pump and 6 cans of refrigerant for ~$200

I figured its worth failing for less than the shop fee, and I will eventually figure it out.
Please teach!
 
I’m missing one of these plug cover bolts - Anyone got one?
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I do. PM me your address and I'll send it out.

I also snagged at the shootout a completely virgin Cyclone IM from the tb elbow down to the canister and vacuum lines on the bracket, etc. It's ALL there. If there's any minor parts of that you're after, let me know and I'll throw it in. You're about the only person on the planet I'd offer that as I know how it would be appreciated and applied as you're very punctual with mods. The meat of the setup I want but the rest I simply would never use; you would so they should be with you.
 
I do. PM me your address and I'll send it out.

I also snagged at the shootout a completely virgin Cyclone IM from the tb elbow down to the canister and vacuum lines on the bracket, etc. It's ALL there. If there's any minor parts of that you're after, let me know and I'll throw it in. You're about the only person on the planet I'd offer that as I know how it would be appreciated and applied as you're very punctual with mods. The meat of the setup I want but the rest I simply would never use; you would so they should be with you.


Same reason I sold him my Cyclone. I know how it's gonna be treated. I do think he'll need a vacuum canister though as he doesn't have one, unless he's since bought one. The one I had one of the previous owners broke the nipple off of it.
 
Same reason I sold him my Cyclone. I know how it's gonna be treated. I do think he'll need a vacuum canister though as he doesn't have one, unless he's since bought one. The one I had one of the previous owners broke the nipple off of it.
Given what I just went through to remove the AC compressor, I see a Cyclone intake would make that even more difficult, and I will need to locate the coil pack. Its going to take a while to work out all the logistics. I am going to need a vac canister eventually. There are options. Interesting design, the vacuum holds the valve closed for the small runners, so loosing vacuum, will only affect the bottom end.
 
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I gave myself extra difficulty since I am using a lighter weight 134a substitute. So I get to have fun with conversion charts to figure out how to get the equivilant of 26oz of 134a, using the ZeroR product.
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Looks like I need 9oz - 1 and 1/2 cans. I'm going to need to find a scale for this.
 
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I gave myself extra difficulty since I am using a lighter weight 134a substitute. So I get to have fun with conversion charts to figure out how to get the equivilant of 26oz of 134a, using the ZeroR product.
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Looks like I need 9oz - 1 and 1/2 cans. I'm going to need to find a scale for this.

Grab a Walmart kitchen scale. Weigh the can and just subtract everything above what the can advertises the weight of the product is. If you have an empty can of the stuff place it on the scale and hit “tare”. It’ll automatically zero the scale and only show the weight of the product inside. :)
 
Grab a Walmart kitchen scale. Weigh the can and just subtract everything above what the can advertises the weight of the product is. If you have an empty can of the stuff place it on the scale and hit “tare”. It’ll automatically zero the scale and only show the weight of the product inside. :)
Target! - $20 for a scale $10 for a thermometer
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Gotta ask why use a substitute? 134a is available and cheap


I'm guessing planning for the future. California is strict AF as to what can be shipped into the state and what can't. A lot of guys have trouble even getting car parts from out of state vendors(like tuners, external wastegates, etc).


Or maybe he just wanted to. :idontknow: I'm curious as well.
 
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