Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

[92Turbski]

Dude, hell yes. The black and red combo is really hard to beat. That is precisely what I'd like to eventually top off my build in the bay.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Hmmm, where did that Big16G go?

Ah yes, the B16G-20G, side by side.

Bolts and 1stud, or all studs. hmmm

 

[Justin DuBois]

I’ll just put that 20g right here while we wait for an intake manifold gasket, and some new injector clips.

I should find some 6mm studs for the oil drain. Its always a PITA to line up the gasket and bolts.

I suppose I can finally update the vehicle profile - 20G is installed

 

[Justin DuBois]

Cold, and Damp. Not motivational. and I'm waiting on parts. Humf

 

[Stapl3]

Did you the pursue the cyclone manifold? I see you have your IM done in black which may have been in the works before talking about it last time.

edit: "While you're at it", you should pull that alternator out and put in a Saturn unit.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Did you the pursue the cyclone manifold? I see you have your IM done in black which may have been in the works before talking about it last time.

edit: "While you're at it", you should pull that alternator out and put in a Saturn unit.

In progress - not in a hurry.

I have had for a while, 2 black PC’d intake manifolds, but the prep work wasn’t great before the PC, like 15 years ago. This one does not have an MDP bolted on it.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Parts arrived

Note - the service manual actually says to replace if there is a grease leak

This is what a good part looks like

 

[Justin DuBois]

Now the work list - been a while since I've had a list.

1. Install idler pulley - Done
2. Final Scrape/Clean block deck for head gasket - Done
*. Tap and Die clean cam cap bolts and threads - Done
*. Remove studs for 1G CAS and manifold bracket, use bolts - Done
3. Bolt Intake manifold to new head - Done

*. Install EGR valve with blockoff plate, Brake Booster port and MAP sensor - Done
4. Fiber head gasket install on block with dowels - Done

*. Washer/Nut clearance to the spring seat shims are very close on 12mm studs 1,2,9, and 10. It is necessary to keep the studs loose and slide washers down and thread the nuts on the stud all the way, then use the deflection tolerance of the loose stud to get the nut past the spring shims. Then I was able to hand tighten the studs all the way in before torquing down the nuts - Done

5. Install head and manifold with ARP head studs - torque to spec with ARP grease - center out sequence to 30,65 and finally 90 ft lb - Done

*. I did decide to use a super thin smear of permatex on the stock oil pressure regulator before installation - Done

*. Fill the filter with oil, several times - Done

*. Replace the dipstick o-ring - Done

6. Change Oil/Filter - Done
*. Use favorite tool to remove stuck cam caps - Done

7. Populate head with lifters, rollers, and cams - Done

8. Pump clean oil through the turbo supply line and reconnect to turbo - Done
*. Say some choice curse words when you forget to bolt up rear timing covers before putting in the cams - Done
*. Bolt up exhaust side rear timing cover - Done
*. remove Intake CAM - Done
*. Bolt up intake side rear timing cover - Done
*. install Intake CAM - Done

9. Install valve cover gasket - Done

*. Plug PCV port, Chase all threads, Fit Oil Cap, RTV spots, and...
*. Install Valve cover - Done
*. Install CAM sensor housing - Done

10. Install water neck/thermostat and new temp sensor - Done
11. Prime the oil pump - check for leaks - and install and tenson timing belt - Done
12. Install timing covers, AC belt tension-er, crank and water pump pulley's, and right side motor mount - Done

13. Install o2 sensor - Done
14. Install exhaust manifold, and torque turbo manifold ARP bolts to spec - Done
15. Make down-pipe hangar bolts tight, check for clearances - Done
16. Install manifold heat shields - Done

17. Replace injector clips, and clean up engine wiring harness - Done
*. AEM injector clips are not as secure as I want, ordered something else - Done

*. Replace coolant sensor connectors - Done
*. Replace broken GM MAP sensor - Done
18. Install throttle body, and TB elbo with IAT - Done

*. Re-plumb vac hoses to EGR and GM MAP sensor - Done
*. Hook up FIAV coolant lines - Fu@#$ng Pain in the A@$ - Done
*. Order 15-17mm hose clamps for the new FIAV coolant hoses - Done
*. Install plug wires (without plugs) - Done
*. Install Cam sensor adaptor, narrow side up - @ TDC and torque bolt to 180in/lb - Done
*. Bolt on intake manifold ground wire to firewall - Done
19. Install fuel rail - Done
20. Clean, gap and install spark plugs - Done
21. Hook up UI Hose-Pipe, and check for boost leaks - Done
*. Fix boost leaks - Done
*. Install transistor pack - Done

22. Install radiator and MAF intake - Done
23. Fill with coolant, and crank for oil pressure and check for leaks again - Done
24. Connect remaining sensors, and fire - DONE!!!

 

[Stapl3]

5. Copper spray fiber head gasket and install on block with dowels

Do NOT use copper spray on a composite head gasket.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Do NOT use copper spray on a composite head gasket.

Why on earth not?

 

[Stapl3]

Personal experience. I did it because I read about the big dogs doing it but missed the part where these guys were doing it to MLS. I remember spraying it and it just didn't seem correct, like some of it absorbed into the gasket - which thinking back now was probably it's demise. But whatever send it and it's too late anyways.
I got idle time out of the car after doing it, and it was smoking bad. After an hour of denial I pulled the head off. Cleaning off the copper spray and gasket material was a nightmare. I put it all back together without copper spray and it was perfect. Literally nothing was different about the assembly aside of the spray.

I use copper on all exhaust metal gaskets. Love the stuff actually. But any fiber or composite gasket I will never consider it.

YMMV

 

[Justin DuBois]

Personal experience. I did it because I read about the big dogs doing it but missed the part where these guys were doing it to MLS. I remember spraying it and it just didn't seem correct, like some of it absorbed into the gasket - which thinking back now was probably it's demise. But whatever send it and it's too late anyways.
I got idle time out of the car after doing it, and it was smoking bad. After an hour of denial I pulled the head off. Cleaning off the copper spray and gasket material was a nightmare. I put it all back together without copper spray and it was perfect. Literally nothing was different about the assembly aside of the spray.

I use copper on all exhaust metal gaskets. Love the stuff actually. But any fiber or composite gasket I will never consider it.

YMMV

This had an MLS HG, but today we are going to try the Mitsu fiber gasket - and I might as well try it without copper spray and see if it seals.

 

[jdxnc]

Copper spray does nothing for a head gasket. If the gasket itself doesn't seal a little spray is not going to make it seal.

 

[chrysler kid]

the graphite on the gasket makes the gasket seal imperfections in the mating surface just like the copper spray does

I have used the copper spray on a graphite gasket with no issues, but technically speaking its like putting extra glue on top of a coating of glue.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Not that I was looking for it, but came across this today. 20-25k miles on it.

Thanks, Gates. Replaced with OEM.

It didn’t throw grease everywhere inside the cover like yours, but still not great.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Not that I was looking for it, but came across this today. 20-25k miles on it.

View attachment 729846

View attachment 729847

Thanks, Gates. Replaced with OEM.

View attachment 729848

It didn’t throw grease everywhere inside the cover like yours, but still not great.

oof, yeah - good catch

 

[Justin DuBois]

Work list updates:

 

[Justin DuBois]

Work list updates:

 

[92Turbski]

Damn, dude, helllll yes. So clean and crisp. Great job.

 

[Justin DuBois]

The wires are getting brittle, I need to replace a few connectors and keep them from breaking unexpectedly

 

[Justin DuBois]

The wires are getting brittle, I need to replace a few connectors and keep them from breaking unexpectedly

Oh - and in the brittle bucket - one Autometer 3 Bar map sensor that fell apart trying to remove the hose.

and my reaction to this POS:

 

[CrackedDSM]

Oh - and in the brittle bucket - one Autometer 3 Bar map sensor that fell apart trying to remove the hose.
View attachment 730218
and my reaction to this POS:
View attachment 730219

Jesus man, that’s insane. But I admit I have been very curious how the inside of the GM Maps look.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Jesus man, that’s insane. But I admit I have been very curious how the inside of the GM Maps look.

I’m wondering if this is what they are supposed to look like. The sensor is in the square box filled with epoxy, the rest of this sensor is empty space with 3 wires from the actual sensor to a plug.

I dunno - I call shiningans - I think this is a cheap knockoff

 

[jdxnc]

The GM style sensors are just terrible quality now, drop the coin on an AEM stainless 5 bar map sensor and never have another issue.

 

[Stapl3]

Check out MPXH6300AC6T1 (3 bar) and MPXH6400AC6T1 (4 bar). These work and are tiny. So, maybe anything more is designed larger to look important or stand out as a mod?

edit agreed above, AEM stainless is what I would go to as well. I think 3 bar would be ideal for him, not 5. Resolution loss for no reason.