Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

[Justin DuBois]

Is there anything that stops someone from adjusting the regulator at will?

Nope. I can say tho- I moved the regulator from one rail to the next, and it didn’t need to be adjusted. Base fuel pressure was right where I left it.

I created a cap for it to keep the dial covered from a plastic chair leg foot. Found those at Outdoor Supply Hardware (OSH)

 

[Justin DuBois]

I was able to get a spare 1G head rebuilt. I'm looking at a head swap soon. Is there a technique for setting cam timing with after market cam gears that can be done without the head mounted?

 

[Justin DuBois]

This is the solution I came up with to address the oil leak in cyl1

Evo beehive springs in a 1G head - built with spacers:

 

[Justin DuBois]

Side marker bulbs were toast:

The gas cap tether died: Trying this generic replacement:

 

[We're on Boost]

any idea what size the orifice is on it? Wondering if it's able to regulate a larger pump, 525/535?

In the install pdf they have a paragraph about the return orifice. It says "The DMR-RA is equipped with a removable flow orifice. Radium Engineering has optimized the size, shape, and material of this orifice for all single and multi-pump applications. The orifice will NOT need to be changed for different fuel pump setups."
I would think they'd still show a spec for maximum flowrate but I don't see one.

 

[MindBlowin03]

In the install pdf they have a paragraph about the return orifice. It says "The DMR-RA is equipped with a removable flow orifice. Radium Engineering has optimized the size, shape, and material of this orifice for all single and multi-pump applications. The orifice will NOT need to be changed for different fuel pump setups."
I would think they'd still show a spec for maximum flowrate but I don't see one.

I actually read that afterwards. I ended up ordering both the rail and regulator a few days ago. We'll see how it goes.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Rich shared some work in progress photo’s of the lid I’m gonna put on this thing - I think this is really going to pull things all togeather, and let me retire the yellow.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Fresh from the oven, 7 layers of candy coated goodness!

 

[Justin DuBois]

Taking things apart - finding cyl1 is still the source of the oil, and one valve has definitely gotten worse.

hard to get enough light in there to see, soot and oil have the power of a black hole to suck up light

I used arp bolts to hang the turbine housing on the E3 manifold, and they came out no issue, felt loose actually. I think I’ll check those after a heat cycle next time.
Turbine blades look healthy

Working on clearing all the stuff in the way of lifting the head

 

[CrackedDSM]

You need a black and red painted Cyclone IM to go with your setup.


But, sucks you gotta do this. However that valve cover looks incredible.

 

[Justin DuBois]

You need a black and red painted Cyclone IM to go with your setup.


But, sucks you gotta do this. However that valve cover looks incredible.

Cyclone or E3, IM would be interesting - As long as the runners match up to a 1G head I'd consider it. I was thinking that a clean aluminum 1G IM would give a stock-ish vibe and go well, as everything else is black on black on black.

 

[jdxnc]

Cyclone or E3, IM would be interesting - As long as the runners match up to a 1G head I'd consider it. I was thinking that a clean aluminum 1G IM would give a stock-ish vibe and go well, as everything else is black on black on black.

you'd have to do the Cyclone, the E3 is 2g style ports.

 

[Stapl3]

If anyone should ever have a Cyclone IM, it's you. Ideal for your setup and it would be set up properly with experimentation until optimal result. Sounds fun actually and I would love to see that happen. It also looks OEM for visuals/inspections and goes along with everything else in your engine bay. It just seems perfect.

 

[CrackedDSM]

If someone wanted mine bad enough I’d let it go. Shipping might be idiotic from FL to CA though.

 

[Justin DuBois]

If someone wanted mine bad enough I’d let it go. Shipping might be idiotic from FL to CA though.

Well lets find out! ;-).

 

[Justin DuBois]

Some progress

Fuel rail and injectors as one, and then very sequential moves to clear the engine harness

The throttle body looks great, a little oil stain on the gasket on the manifold side

Err , yeah gotta fix these up

Front wheel and inside shield off to access the crank pulley. and a jack under the pan to move things up and down a bit to get the motor mount off

AC, PS and Alt belts, and pullies off, so the covers can come all the way off

By days end the grenade pin was in, and the timing belt was off. There is oil residue in the intake - interested to see what is in the intake runner on cyl1

 

[Justin DuBois]

Sitting in its happy spot, cleared the way to lift the head today

CAMs, lifters and rockers out - less weight to lift

I forgot I was running the projected tips. Looks like far right, cyl 1 is darkest, probably the oil.

1st look - Mitsubishi MLS gasket

Looks better than I was expecting

oh hey - there it is - wide band

 

[Justin DuBois]

More progress:
I got to work with paper towels, PB blaster, Brakleen, and some elbo grease with a plastic blade and a brass wire brush.

Looking closely, this is the only cylinder that got pissed off at some point. The edge of the crown on the intake side is pitted. I think this might have happened a long time ago, probably when I was running this motor with an AEM stand alone ECU in a 1G chassis for Open Track Challenge. This was a long time before this 2G restoration project.

See this mess? I wondered why the TB idler pulley puked up a bunch a grease, and when I grabbed the pulley with my hand it wiggled in a way its not supposed to wiggle. I’ll be replacing that. It pays to touch everything you can, when you can.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Gates idler pulley is dead

Dunno if others have had this issue, but I ordered an OEM mitsu part to replace it.

 

[92Turbski]

Gates idler pulley is dead
View attachment 728095
View attachment 728096
Dunno if others have had this issue, but I ordered an OEM mitsu part to replace it.

Chyna strikes again.

 

[We're on Boost]

Dunno if others have had this issue, but I ordered an OEM mitsu part to replace it.

The issue of throwing grease out, yeah I remember a thread like that.
Here
Gee that was a while ago already, 2018.
He said his had less than 3,000 miles on it. How many miles are on yours?

 

[Justin DuBois]

The issue of throwing grease out, yeah I remember a thread like that.
Here
Gee that was a while ago already, 2018.
He said his had less than 3,000 miles on it. How many miles are on yours?

It went on the block, March 2022, and driven less than 2000 miles, no track days, only street driving and 7500rpm redlines. I think the bearings are not good enough for a 4G63

 

[CrackedDSM]

It went on the block, March 2022, and driven less than 2000 miles, no track days, only street driving and 7500rpm redlines. I think the bearings are not good enough for a 4G63

Damn. That sucks, but is good to know.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Cleanup the spare Intake manifold. This stuff is pretty good. Not too harsh, but it dried out the skin on my hands pretty quickly.

I did a little touch up on some sketchy powder coating. I don’t want to put too much time into this one. Normally I’d give it to Rich to do the PC the right way, but I just can’t justify it on this part.

I ran a brush down all the head stud taps, and got the correct assembly grease for ARP stud torque specs.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Speaking of PC done right, I picked up the latest work from Rich - This is so cool

Later you will see more of this billet plug cover - It is crazy good. The top surface of the grill is polished aluminum with clear on top, like the letters on the valve cover. Inside edges of the grill are matching red, and the rest is sparkle silver, matching the other silver things, like the PS pump, water pipe, water neck, and TB tin.