Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

[Justin DuBois]

Today - the WB is on the line - Temps are just a little warmer, so either the engine is calibrated due to temps in the right range, or the sensor is just working today. Go figure. Knock is back.

 

[We're on Boost]

Today - the WB is on the line - Temps are just a little warmer, so either the engine is calibrated due to temps in the right range, or the sensor is just working today. Go figure.

Yeah, I checked where it's easy to check, from 61 to 79 seconds, and the wideband is acting just right there (checking against Front O2).

Where is your wideband sensor located?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Yeah, I checked where it's easy to check, from 61 to 79 seconds, and the wideband is acting just right there (checking against Front O2).

Where is your wideband sensor located?

err, not where you can see it: Its just after the flex section, on top of the pipe in the gap between the front sub frame and firewall, sorta where the black lower brace is bolted up in this shot.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Night time

 

[We're on Boost]

Its just after the flex section

Hmm, a flex section could be leaky couldn't it? I actually don't know why they don't leak a little bit all the time. Do they?

 

[Stapl3]

Target richer to eliminate the knock. My car on pump liked it nice and fat at low 10 targets, I think I even dipped into the 9s. There was no loss of power, it was just more fuel and less knock. Nothing else.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Hmm, a flex section could be leaky couldn't it? I actually don't know why they don't leak a little bit all the time. Do they?

No leaking exhaust - The flex section does not leak.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I went back to 2020, looking to see why I was able to pull up the timing and HP numbers higher back before all the updates. The old data has a shorter pull, with slightly higher boost levels, but the real improvement is in the Torque and HP numbers. The HPbyAir is in the 10's to 11's. Since I have already put 2G timing numbers in the high boost areas on top of the EVO8 map - I can not figure out why I am not doing better today.

By the time the old big 16G had spooled up at 4K, it was into 7-8deg of timing. It never dipped down into the 5's because the RPM's were higher from the start at lower boost.

In comparison I'm seeing more MAFRaw but less Airflow.

What I do like is how smooth the RPM data has become with the Kiggly Crank sensor compared to the black top 1G CAS. Also the MAP data is smoother too when I moved from GM3Bar to ZT-3.5Bar

 

[Justin DuBois]

I decided to change oil and filter today, and take a look around. There is an occasional smell of burnt oil during a run, so I looked for signs of a drip above hot parts like the turbine, and the downpipe.

And I did find some - looking up from the floor I could see a collection of oil on the bottom of the water pipe behind the turbo. Mostly oil travels down, so that leaves me with Head Gasket, Valve cover gasket and…? The Valve cover gasket looks dry, and I think oil seeping down past the exhaust manifold would have smoked long before getting to the water pipe, so its Head Gasket and …?

Also after changing oil, decided it was time to referb the finish on the red stripe spark cover.

Starting with protecting the red stripe:

Trim masking

Green scotch bright pad scrub
Plastic prep
Adhesion promoter
Primer x2 light coats

 

[Justin DuBois]

Dodging raindrops today - 1st color coat

light coat 2

Light coat 3

 

[Justin DuBois]

Two coats of clear satin finish:

And the reveal

 

[92Turbski]

Two coats of clear satin finish:
View attachment 719858

And the reveal
View attachment 719859

Factory fresh! Nice!

 

[CrackedDSM]

Two coats of clear satin finish:
View attachment 719858

And the reveal
View attachment 719859

Jesus. This looks great.

Turns out I have an evo 3 one with the silver Center stripe. I may do this to it.

 

[Justin DuBois]

The trick is to make light coats. Hit the detail spots and edges first, then cover whats left.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Shameless plug for Muellerized:

I've spent a good deal of time posting about the build, but I have not shared about how the car is handling - so I'll see if I can put some words to it.

Previous to phase three, the bump stops on the JIC's had turned to dust - Many pivots were squeaking and sticky - and the lubrication in the upper ball joints was all but gone, with most of the creaking noises. Also annoying - the drive line slop could be felt rolling in first gear - with mild on and off throttle input. Basically driving around local streets was un-fun at any speed, and freeway speeds were bouncy and jarring.

After phase three - The ride was a completely renewed experience.

Basics:
The steering and alignment were all back. The car goes where you point it, no slop, no hunting, just point and go - smooth tracking - and very responsive feedback in the wheel. When initiating throttle input, the new drive line transfers energy - right to the wheels. No delay, no lurching, and no wheel hop - just go. The upside here comes with some more drive line noise as the rear diff gear noise is more evident with POM subframe bushings. After a little mental adjustment, and keeping the rear seats in and up, I've come not to notice it.

Hard hit bumps:
Totally managed! Slow driving on the crazy pot hole surface streets is bumpy, but well managed. I'm running fairly high spring rates, witch makes for minimal body roll and fast weight transfer - and this comes with the less than plush ride in town but the hits are never sharp or banging. Now - at freeway speeds the ride is amazing! Completely stable - big hits are felt, but the body is undisturbed. I'm looking forward to trying this setup on apex berms.

Threshold breaking and grip limit cornering:
I'll let you know when I get to it! This is where the reckless nature of my youth has been managed. I don't drive to limits on city streets, and this setup is so much faster than it has ever been before. I need to re-learn the limits somewhere on a track. I don't wish to deal with all the chaos that can come from a error on the streets - so until I can work out a track day weekend, this kind of thing is going to have to wait.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Out with the blue:

In with the new:

 

[Justin DuBois]

I’m amazed where a little trickle of oil can go when it leaks past a seal - looking from the accessory side of the timing belt, I see oil drips on top of the water pump, and start going backwards -

At the bottom of the tin timing belt cover behind the PS pump, oil was collecting and tripping on the water pump, and it came from the front valve cover seal here:

I double checked under the cam gear cover and it was dry (thankful) . I think I found the right source.

 

[Justin DuBois]

No new drips.

 

[Stapl3]

What wires are those? Was never a big fan of the blue either, but those NGKs are the top dog.

 

[Justin DuBois]

What wires are those? Was never a big fan of the blue either, but those NGKs are the top dog.

Prospark 9100 from General Cable
Amazon Link

The NGK’s work well enough no doubt, but the price on the 9100’s is so good, it was worth it to try - and so far I see no performance issues

 

[Justin DuBois]

Rich figured out how to get the stuck part out of the high pressure output port in the rebuilt and powder coated PS pump. This part:

And now it is working, and looking fabulous:

 

[Justin DuBois]

For my Birthday I decided to address a small detail that has been bugging me ever since I added the AEM340 and the upgraded radium FP regulator.

I want to hang the FP regulator directly on the end of the fuel rail. I had to compromise with a 90deg elbow, and it works, but I just don’t like how much leverage it has hanging out there in a place with lots of vibrations.

Instead of cutting an ORB into a stock fuel rail, I went for it, and picked up a matching Radium fuel rail with the ideal fittings:

This require some additional work to clearance the stock Timing Belt cover, and I think it worked out quite well.

 

[MindBlowin03]

I've been eyeballing that rail and regulator setup for quite a while but thought it might contact the timing cover. Did you have to cut the inner tin at all?

On a side note, any idea what size the orifice is on it? Wondering if it's able to regulate a larger pump, 525/535?

 

[Justin DuBois]

I've been eyeballing that rail and regulator setup for quite a while but thought it might contact the timing cover. Did you have to cut the inner tin at all?

On a side note, any idea what size the orifice is on it? Wondering if it's able to regulate a larger pump, 525/535?

One of those pics shows how close it is to the rear tin - no cutting on those. The only clearance needed is with the plastic on the upper cover. Cosmetic, not structural.

I would expect support for VERY large pumps with this regulator - but you can get the technical specs online, and see what the largest output AN size they offer. You can mix and match all kinds of fittings for their stuff.

 

[MindBlowin03]

Is there anything that stops someone from adjusting the regulator at will?