Installed Forced performance 2 cams no difference in power?

[Streetsweeper21]

Watz up? I got a 90 Eclipse gsx with an Evo 3 Big16g, 550cc injectors, walbro 255 high output, Apexi Safc 2, 2g Maf.I just installed a Metal head gasket, Arp head studs, Balance shaft eliminator kit, Forced performance 2 cams and I feel no difference from my stock cams. I have a few exhaust manifold broken studs but nothing to serious also rpms are breakin up a little around 5k what do you guys think?

 

[TimG]

Do you change your spark plugs often like the rest of us? I have to change mine at least every 3 months and that is pushing it.

 

[TSiAWD666]

I think you're mistaken in thinking broken exhaust manifold studs are ok and going to net you max performance. I'm guessing that your broken studs mean you don't have the manifold secured at all the stock points, correct? Just one is enough to allow a leak. An exhaust leak that is severe enough pre-turbo, like one from loose or non-existent nuts on the exhaust manifold to head, could account for your post 5k rpm break-up.

 

[bling5tatus]

i see no afpr listed.

 

[Streetsweeper21]

I think you're mistaken in thinking broken exhaust manifold studs are ok and going to net you max performance. I'm guessing that your broken studs mean you don't have the manifold secured at all the stock points, correct? Just one is enough to allow a leak. An exhaust leak that is severe enough pre-turbo, like one from loose or non-existent nuts on the exhaust manifold to head, could account for your post 5k rpm break-up.

All nuts are not on like the corner exhaust studs are broken and I have no afpr but the car always pulled fine. The car feels like b4 when I had no cams but just a break at 5k. When I get to 5k it misfires than pops thru the exhaust loud with black smoke comin out the vaccum idle is around 8-5

 

[TSiAWD666]

You need to eliminate the variable of the probably exhaust leak. Fix the studs, check the gasket, and torque everything to spec and then see how it works.

 

[Street Surgeon]

Fix the problems, then get it tuned.

 

[supravw]

You need to tune the car... You can't just expect to throw in cams and have power.

 

[2gGSX]

IMO the biggest problem is the fact that you have a pre-turbo exhaust leak which I guarantee you is sieving air out when you're trying to make a pull.

Other than that, your vac at idle seems a little low, even for being a 2.0 with FP2 cams. It's possible that when you installed them "straight up", they are far from specified degree.

 

[Streetsweeper21]

IMO the biggest problem is the fact that you have a pre-turbo exhaust leak which I guarantee you is sieving air out when you're trying to make a pull.

Other than that, your vac at idle seems a little low, even for being a 2.0 with FP2 cams. It's possible that when you installed them "straight up", they are far from specified degree.

I installed the cams the same position the stock cams were. The vaccum is almost at 0 like if its tryin to boost when idling at 750. When my idle goes up to like 1.5k the vac goes down to around 10

 

[2gGSX]

Even if you installed the cams in the same position as the stock ones were in, that doesn't guarantee that they are degreed 100% correctly. We're talking about degrees of difference here.

As I said, the vacuum doesn't seem typical based on the numbers other people have thrown around. A healthy motor with these cams and relatively close to being degreed correctly should see at the bare minimum 10 inHg. Seeing 0 vac at idle is a pretty good indication that the cams are mis-degreed (I think that's a word?).

 

[2deep]

Have you checked the simple stuff? Made sure all timing marks line up and check base timing via a timing light?

 

[Big Woo]

Well I would do the following
1: fix and or replace any/all broken/questional exhaust manifold studs, and by now most likely the exhaust manifold gasket too.
2: Check for and fix any vacuum or boost leaks
3: Tune engine with wide band O2, or take it somewhere who can.
4: Verify cam timing (on both camshafts) with degree wheel and dial indicator. If found too far out of specification suspect one of the cams possibly being a tooth off, If close but not correct >10 degrees add agjustable cams gears and adjust accordingly.

 

[dsm-onster]

Zero tuning will still yield great results. . . Those suggesting that noticable results cannot be recognized w/out a tune have not swapped out stock cams. . .

Basically what Big Woo said:

Your timing is off. You have about half the vacuum that should be metered. . .

OR, you have an boost leak. . . You mentioned black smoke. . . have you done a simple boost leak test.


P.S. exhaust leaks get your turbo nowhere.

 

[Bohrn]

I suggest you do a compression test as well.

If something was slightly wrong when you did your install(out a couple of teeth, not waiting long enough for lifters to bleed down before starting etc) you could have a bent valve or 2. This will cause crappy vacuum at idle

I suggest you do this first before you do anything, because anything you do will not fix it if your compression is off. And if you have to pull the head, the exhaust manifold stuff is easier off the car.

Compression tester is cheap and you will have use of it for a long time. People will buy you beers to use it too, so it pays for itself lots

 

[dsm-onster]

People will buy you beers to use it too, so it pays for itself lots

It pays big dividends for you to, I see.