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Forced Performance Cams

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mine does that on stock cams.. lets say your cruising around the mall or something 1st gear 1000-1500 rpms. you only have to give it enough gas to keep it moving. mine will start bucking sometimes also.

With a large cam, the common blap blap blap from the exhaust is exactly how the motor is running. so if youare in gear idling around you are going to gain and lose power very quickly as the cams turn.





I also say anyone who is displeased with their fp2's feel free to send them to me I will send you 3 sets of turbo cams!!
 
v8s_are_slow said:
i'm gonna try and keep this on topic and not a "help me" topic now. but now that i have these things in, my car just won't idle. if it does, i'm having to bring down the rpm's like VERY slowly otherwise it just dies on me. i've adjusted my biss screw in as far as i can (adjusting it out totally kills it), and my isc steps are around 35-40. not really too sure what else i can do to fix this. when i ordered my dsmchip i believe i had it set for 900 rpm's for idle. i dunno what else to do. :confused: :cry:

also, my trims are all 139/136/139 (lo/mid/high) but having no knock, timing is still good, and egt's are okay as well. ya'll think it'd be okay to keep em there? if i richen it up, it seems the car wants to start sputtering some. so i lean it out to keep it running good but those are the trims i get. uggghhh!!! thanks guys!

scott
if you still go that problem i might help u out a bit. If you lower down your base fuel presure it might stop doing that. I know once i bumped my presure up it was doing that . Another solution which is by far the best is learn heel-and-toe driving, its when you push the break with your toes and keep the heel on the gas it allows u to rev the engine while breaking and clutching... also saved your transmission by rev matching your shifts and downshifts... hope it works!
 
I've been following this thread all along and a few posts had me a little concerned. My car is a Galant VR4 and I love the sleeper effect so I didn't want any real lumpy idle.

Well I got my car back yesterday. Amongst other thing I had FPCam2 installed. The idle is great - verry smooth - almost like stock. Idles about 790 right now.

I'm no mechanic but they didn't seem to have any problems getting a good smooth idle.

I don't really notice any difference below 4000 rpms, but at about 4500 there is a noticable increase in kick. Of course I only have a small 16g. I suspect that if I had a bigger baddder turbo the difference would be even more noticeable. (Next mod FP 3052)

Sorry no dyno numbers.
 
Well I did have them install adj cam gears. Not sure if they did any real adjustments with them. I'll ask.

I only had them installed because if I ever wanted them now would be the time to put them in while doing the cams. I figured when it came time for a dyno tune they may make a lill difference.
 
98spydert said:
Thanks for the feedback, mine are still sitting in the box :(

Did you use adjustable cam gears?

If you've read this thread, you'd know that they make the most power without degreeing them. They're already degreed for peak performance. ;)
 
ikickuintheball said:
If you've read this thread, you'd know that they make the most power without degreeing them. They're already degreed for peak performance. ;)

There's nothing universal about how a cam is indexed. Lots of factors, especially on a rebuild engine can effect how many degrees either cam could be off. And with less than a dozen people posting feedback on them and no single application comparrisons with cam gears and without, I don't know how you can state that they in fact make the most power without being degreed. ;)
 
98spydert said:
There's nothing universal about how a cam is indexed. Lots of factors, especially on a rebuild engine can effect how many degrees either cam could be off. And with less than a dozen people posting feedback on them and no single application comparrisons with cam gears and without, I don't know how you can state that they in fact make the most power without being degreed. ;)

That is a great statement!

MGH
 
So you're saying that the people who don't degree the HKS 272's are missing out on most too? The majority of people with 272's don't degree them because they're supposed to be at peak performance already. But what do I know? I only have stock cams. :(
 
kazzam said:
if you still go that problem i might help u out a bit. If you lower down your base fuel presure it might stop doing that. I know once i bumped my presure up it was doing that . Another solution which is by far the best is learn heel-and-toe driving, its when you push the break with your toes and keep the heel on the gas it allows u to rev the engine while breaking and clutching... also saved your transmission by rev matching your shifts and downshifts... hope it works!




Dear God! Someone has been reading the new SCC magazine :rolleyes: How to downshift like a pro. Hahaha. :barf:
 
Well where to start, I have used and installed HKS, Crower, Web, Comp, and Crane cams into Mitsubishi 4G63, 4G64, and 6G72 motors. I have also used AEM, Skunk, and Fidanza adjustable cam gears. I have also read through a good portion of this thread was astounded to read that some people think that installing cams without decreeing them in the best way to make the more power. This is without a doubt untrue, but at the same time possible yet unlikely. I would liken it to playing roulette, throw them in and hope you get a good result.

This is way some people are more passionate about one brand of cams vs. another. They bought a set of brand X cams installed them, and were unhappy with the results. They then come to the conclusion that Brand X cams must suck, and move on the Brand Y cams which happen by chance to get installed in a more favorable position than the Brand X cams did, so customer A is now happy, and Brand Y cams are the greatest.

I have no particular favorite, but I know that many feel strongly about the HKS cams, and are unwilling to try anything else. This puzzles me somewhat since I think the HKS cam profiles and ramp speeds and shapes are getting a little dated. Can anyone tell me way the oldest cams are the favorite, yet everyone absolutely must have the latest and greatest turbo? Change happens, technology progresses, people should take advantage of it, not just portions of it.

All right here a little info; there are many variables or stack up tolerances that ultimately determine the position of the camshafts. Here are a few 1: crankshaft keyway position in relation to crankshaft throw locations in degrees, minutes, and seconds. 2: camshaft dowel pin location in relationship to actual camshaft lobe positions in degrees, minutes, and seconds. 3: Cam gear dowel pinhole location in relation to timing marks, and timing belt teeth locations, again in degrees, minutes, and seconds. Crank gear key slot position in relation to timing belt grooves. Well there are plenty more, but I think you get the idea putting in a set of cams is a gamble in how they will perform, if they are not degreed in. However most people have good luck when installing cams, simply because these parts are manufactured to specifications with certain allowable tolerances. The problem come where one has a bastard part that is out of spec, but did not get caught, or more frequently a stack up tolerance issue will arise. For example if the four components I mentioned above are used, and say each has a production tolerance of +,- 2 degrees, what would happen if your set of components were all –2 degrees. They are all still acceptable parts to the manufacturers specifications, but if they all end up together in one motor you end up with the cam being installed 8 degrees retarded, or 8 degrees different then the cam manufacturers intended position. Now this usually does not happen because the law of averages says most of the time the tolerances will come close to canceling each other out.

I personally have not found any one-cam manufacturers cams to be consistently further out of specification than another’s. If they are all compared on a test engine using the same components, and only the cams are changed, they are all adequate. The point here is that unless the cams are degreed in you really do not know where they are at, and have no real basis for making an assessment from one set of cams to another

I will see about getting some number together from previous builds on cam positioning. I also like to graph the cam/valve position in relation to piston position and crank angle.

Joe
 
GSX4LIFE said:
Dear God! Someone has been reading the new SCC magazine :rolleyes: How to downshift like a pro. Hahaha. :barf:

no, no magazine, i had to learn how to do that cause my car was stalling everytime i let go of the gas and depress the clutch... hope i helped though
 
TSIfreek said:
I have them on my motor I just built with a B16g. Motor still needs to be broken in before I can really stand on it hard to see what they will do. I have only test ran the motor, and I can hear a slight diffrence in the exhaust note over the stockers, and I am still at 19-20 inches of vacume at Idle :thumb: I am still using the stock cam gears also. I will let you all know how everything is performing in a week.
.

Any update on this? How are you enjoying the FP1s with your B16g?
 
Just an update from me to you all: I put the FP 2's in my car (14b, etc-check profile for mods), and went from 80% duty cycles with 550's to 116% duty cycles with the 550's. 21 degrees of advance and no knock. Top end is great, I can now burn the tires off competely through frirst off of a lauch. I think these are very nice cams, and even with a small turbo I got some nice power out of them. Coupt' is putting them in his car as well, to go along with his 60-1. I will get him to post an update here when he gets them in.
 
icedearth15 said:
Just an update from me to you all: I put the FP 2's in my car (14b, etc-check profile for mods), and went from 80% duty cycles with 550's to 116% duty cycles with the 550's. 21 degrees of advance and no knock. Top end is great, I can now burn the tires off competely through frirst off of a lauch.

DAMN!! Those numbers are impressive. So you didn't make any other changes to the car other than the cams? Would you say you notice a slight loss below 3500rpm?
 
A little bit, but not much power loss below 3500rpm. And I put he cams in at the same time I pulled out my balance shafts, and put a new front cover on.
 
Rob Rohr said:
Any update on this? How are you enjoying the FP1s with your B16g?
Well I have 500 miles on my new motor and have been hitting some 7k shifts every now and then. The comp 100s or FP1s that I have have have lots of mid range power that pulls all the way to 7k even with a B16g. It really puts you in the seat at 3000 when both the cams and the turbo start making power together and like I said the power is there at 7k.
As far as off turbo power its just like stock as well as Idle and mine sits at 750 rpm and wont miss a beat.
I would very highly recomend the smaller comp cams to anyone with a turbo thats smaller than a 50 trim and is an everyday street car year round. I know guys run the 16Gs with the stage 2 cams but I think you loose midrange torque that the smaller turbos run in. If I were to do it again I would still go with the smaller cams. I feel no power loss at 7k but thats only has far as I pushed the motor so far so we will see. :thumb:
 
I need a definitive and sure answer on this. Are the FP 2 cams drilled to work with 97-99 style cars or must they be drilled like HKS'?

thanx for all the info in this thread guys.
 
olmytsi said:
I need a definitive and sure answer on this. Are the FP 2 cams drilled to work with 97-99 style cars or must they be drilled like HKS'?

thanx for all the info in this thread guys.
Yes they are drilled.
 
How any brave souls try the comp 101300 or 101400 cams yet? Revew? I have a 2.4 an am crossed between the 101300's and the 101400's.
 
highbooster said:
How any brave souls try the comp 101300 or 101400 cams yet? Revew? I have a 2.4 an am crossed between the 101300's and the 101400's.


I have a set of 101400s on the floor next to me, but I am waiting for whihc valve spring set is the best option. My 1g head isn't back form the porter yet so I guess its ok :)
 
nanokpsi said:
I have a set of 101400s on the floor next to me, but I am waiting for whihc valve spring set is the best option. My 1g head isn't back form the porter yet so I guess its ok :)

Contact robet at forced performance for the valve springs to use for those cams. He would be the only one I would ask.
 
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