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Forced Performance Cams

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I am also having some idle/stalling issues, but have been stumped whether it is related to MAFT, lightened flywheel, or possibly something else. Haven't really considered it being the cams, but I'm open to anything now. It's prob. just a tuning issue, but would love to hear input from FP if there may be an issue.
 
sLoGSX said:
I am also having some idle/stalling issues, but have been stumped whether it is related to MAFT, lightened flywheel, or possibly something else. Haven't really considered it being the cams, but I'm open to anything now. It's prob. just a tuning issue, but would love to hear input from FP if there may be an issue.

I don't have a maft but i have the xact flywheel and the stalling is pretty bad. I mean everytime i put the clutch in and let the rpm's fall it either stalls or stays at low idle. I just don't want to think about this when i get the sbr flywheel for the 6bolt am building which is only 8 and the xact is 11lbs i beleive. I just hope its an isolated kind of issue since not many ppl have posted about this. Even though i have adjustable cam gears the point of me buying these cams was so that i did not need to degree them. Otherwise i would of went with something else. But i love the cams too much to get rid of them. Maybe we just got a bad batch of cams? I'll just wait until FP tells us something
 
Have some of you been in the dark the past years? People have been complaining about stalling at idle, street lights etc with HKS 272's for years. Its the same thing with the FP2's. You can fiddle with cam gears to try to fix it, or just jack up the idle. This is one of the reasons back when people considered the 272's 'not the best daily driver cam'.
 
anconover said:
Have some of you been in the dark the past years? People have been complaining about stalling at idle, street lights etc with HKS 272's for years. Its the same thing with the FP2's. You can fiddle with cam gears to try to fix it, or just jack up the idle. This is one of the reasons back when people considered the 272's 'not the best daily driver cam'.

Well i don't know about that but i have seen several cars with hks 272's and they seem to idle just fine and have no stalling issues. I only know of one friend that had jerking problems in first gear around 1500-2000 rpm but he fixed that by doing that grounding kit and it seemed to work.
 
I am very interested in the FP1 cams but apparently nobody has them yet....at least on here that is.
 
people have them on here, and search to see if anyone is using comp 101100's since theyre basically the same thing. All the numbers/graphs etc are up for them to decide if you want em etc.
 
98GSX_MTX said:
I am very interested in the FP1 cams but apparently nobody has them yet....at least on here that is.
I have them on my motor I just built with a B16g. Motor still needs to be broken in before I can really stand on it hard to see what they will do. I have only test ran the motor, and I can hear a slight diffrence in the exhaust note over the stockers, and I am still at 19-20 inches of vacume at Idle :thumb: I am still using the stock cam gears also. I will let you all know how everything is performing in a week.
I need new front lower control arms because mine rotted out under the big bushing thanks to the chicago salt in the winter(bastards) :thumbdown
I am getting them this week.
 
I assume you read none of this thread, nor did you look at the dyno graphs i posted. Look back a few pages for dyno graphs comparing them.
 
everybody complaining about crappy idle can give their aftermarket cams to me. i dont even care what kind they are and ill give you a set of stockers. :thumb:
 
1stGenRocks said:
everybody complaining about crappy idle can give their aftermarket cams to me. i dont even care what kind they are and ill give you a set of stockers. :thumb:

Bwahaha. Same here. FP2's please! :laugh: :p :D
 
am fwd and the "low" end is not bad at all. I get full boost at 4000 with the to4b vtrim so am more than happy with it
 
***update***

well, i took off my timing belt and reset it. i have a 94 with a 6 bolt motor, but the plate for the timing mark behind the crank gear was off a 94 and those timing marks were different so had to feel for topdead center by putting a rod down the spark plug hole and just stop turning the crank when it got close. but made me wonder if i was off a tooth or 2. so i wanted to be sure and changed the plate out so i could get it exact.

anyway, i redid the timing belt, checked the timing again (it was at about 7 degrees so set it back at 5). and also changed out my thermostat to a 160 degree stat cause it was running a bit warm and didn't know if that was effecting anything. set my translator for 450 injectors to start with (aux at 0 and base at 2). trims are being SLOW to move. i've maybe driven 100 miles today and they're still not really moving much.

but anywho, the stalling isn't as bad. if i bring down the rpms kinda slow while driving and then press in on the clutch it'll stay running. if i let them drop from up high it dies. if i drive it around a bit, turn it off for a lil while, and then try and crank it, it won't idle till i drive it around some. it just wants to die. my chip is set for 900 rpms. wondering if maybe i have to adjust the translator some more and wonder if that'll help. i dunno. other than that though, it's still pulling good and strong even though it's really rich right now and sputters at high rpms (5k rpm or so). i'm guessing that unless i get a dsmlink, or get my chip redone for a higher rpm, i'll be outta luck as far as keeping it from dying. oh well. i still love the cams though. just hate it dying really easy.

i'll post more when i can finish getting it tuned good and maybe have a run at the track this weekend. laters!

scott
 
I have driven a atmosphere BOV since I bought the car.. and I also blocked off the bottom half of the TB so I manually set the idle. Yeah I used to have problems with it dying if I let the RPMS drop too fast and it still does it..

the best tip I can give you is. when you come up to a stop light leave the car in gear and do not puch in the clutch until the RPMS are about 1700 rpms or so.. this will keep the car running just fine.
If you have to push the clutch at high RPMS and let the rpms drop.. blip the gas right around 2k... it'll do that same thing and keep it running.

Question for the guy with slow moving Trims --> did you do a POT mod for the 6 bolt swap?? Ever since I did that mod my long term stays a 0% no matter how much the
short term moves.

PS.. I will be ordering FP2's pretty soon (end of week) and installing them on stock springs for now. I have another 1g head I am going to port, 1mm SS valves, springs/retain., intake manifold and install that when it is done.

I am currently running a to4b V-trim that is RATED for 51 lb/min and I am maxing out about 34lb/min with stock head. @ 20psi
 
okay well i'll try messing around with the idle a lil bit more tomorrow i guess. i had the biss screw all the way in (which i'm told lowers the idle) but if i had it out at ALL it'd die so i was left with no choice. BUT on the other hand the car wasn't tuned for shiznit either. after resetting the timing belt and all and setting my translator to 450's the trims were back at 100. i drove it around all day yesterday and today and slowly pulled the fuel out. tonight i got it perfect. pulls really freakin hard now all the way to 8k with no sputtering.

failed to mention that i bypassed the coolant lines to the throttle body and no i didn't block off the fiav. was told that my idle would be higher till it warmed up if i didn't block it off and right now i'm doing everything i can to get all the idle i can. may mess around with the biss screw tomorrow though cause when i was 1st doing all this, the isc steps was a bit higher than the 0-3 steps i'm getting now.

but the car is tuned pretty well now and turned the boost up to about 22 psi and it pulls pretty f'in hard. now i just wanna throw in some high octane and get more mods :D can't wait till i hit the track on sunday (so long as my pos pressure plate will hold all the torque).

as for the pot mod, what's that? maybe i don't get the abbreviations. i dunno. anywho, my trims are good now (although they took only about 200 miles of driving to get them set).
 
if you bypass the coolant lines to the TB and not block off the FIAV you will always have problems.. I would suggest that you hook them back up.. In he case of our cars the coolant is not there to "heat" the air. but rather melt a pellet of wax.
basically when you start the car cold the FIAV allows air to bypass and raise the RPMS to around 1,500 rpms. when the coolant starts to warm up it melts a little wax pellet in the FIAV, when that melts it blocks the air passage and the RPMS drop back down to normal.
If there is no coolant melting the ball the rpms will stay messed up. this is why your BISS screw is all the way down probably.


I just noticed you have a 1g so he POT mod wouldn't be for you :thumb:
 
re-connect the tbody coolant lines and i bet itll fix your problem. My car did the same quite a bit on stock cas when i bypassed them. Really not worth it, does basically nothing for you, except rid those 2 hoses. I only did it because 1 of mine tore and was leaking bad.
 
i'll go and do that today i guess. i had forgotten about it. only did it to begin with cause one of my hoses had blown out.

okay anyway, ya'll can get back to the cam discussion now i guess. :D thanks for the help though. i'll let ya'll know if i get the idle problem under control though cause i know some of you guys are concerned about having idle issues.
 
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