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How to install a (Turbosmart/Tee-style) bleeder-style MBC

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kenamond

DSM Wiseman
3,226
62
Feb 15, 2006
Los Alamos, New_Mexico
I gots mad MS Paint skillz (seriously, I did that in MS Paint...no...really!!)

(I removed the hyperlinked image and uploaded it instead, because some folks couldn't see it. Should be at end of post now.)

And if you inspect the stock BCS setup, it looks the same, but there's no knob on the BCS (the ECU "turns the knob" so to speak).

Enjoy...my nerves are shot...MS Paint is a nuisance.

EDIT: Based on the response of Yoda (steve), I corrected the picture (MS Paint FTW!) to include the restrictor plug. Note that this could in theory be build into the T fitting. I need some verification on this setup, then it will be submitted as a tech article. Oh, and I'm starting to ... ahem ... enjoy MS Paint; I'm a perfectionist, so being able to control (or being forced to control) every pixel manually is somehow okay. And if anyone wants my bitmap with each of the pictured components segregated in an image file (BMP), let me know; I saved a separate file with each component "unmolested".
 

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  • Bleeder_Setup.jpg
    Bleeder_Setup.jpg
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:)put it on my resume' LOL

only thing is i thought "bleeders" were bad?

I've been given that impression, too, but I've never used one (other than the BCS), so I don't know first-hand. However, many people buy them not knowing much about MBCs (it's usually one of the first mods, so they're usually a bit new to it all) and are incorrectly instructed to install them as if they were ball-spring MBCs. So I made a picture to set the record straight for them. God I hope I got it right.OMG
 
:)put it on my resume' LOL

only thing is i thought "bleeders" were bad?

The stock setup bleeds off pressure, but the key is that it routes it back into the intake.

Bleeders are bad if you don't reroute it into the intake behind the MAS and unmetered air is sucked in at vacuum and blown out under boost. With this setup it's just like a stock setup(more or less) except being controllable with a knob. A ball and spring type MBC will spool up slightly quicker than a bleeder type especially at higher boost pressures, but I don't think it is a very noticeable difference.

That is an amazing paint diagram by the way! :rocks:

Seriously. Wow. I'd hire you.
 
Bleeder style MBC usually have some sort of flow restrictor between the boost source and the tee to the bleeder/WGA. The bleeder can't lower the local pressure in the hose if it can't leak off more air than enters.

Does Turbosmart provide one or expect you to use the original factory restrictor pellet?
 
Bleeder style MBC usually have some sort of flow restrictor between the boost source and the tee to the bleeder/WGA. The bleeder can't lower the local pressure in the hose if it can't leak off more air than enters.

Does Turbosmart provide one or expect you to use the original factory restrictor pellet?

So for the stock config, there's a restriction in the hose between the compressor outlet and "T" or perhaps inside the T itself?
 
So for the stock config, there's a restriction in the hose between the compressor outlet and "T" or perhaps inside the T itself?

Yes!

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It limits the flow rate into the hose so that the BCS isn't swamped.
 
I was overdue for a good helping of embarrassment from steve anyway.

:tease::coy:

So what I'd like *someone* with one of these things to do is see if you can get the thing to work.
If the kit doesn't somehow compensate for what :cool:steve:cool: pointed out, then try using the stock vaccuum line and plug.

If anyone can make the thing work, PLEASE post back some specifics so that others in your situation can benefit (and PM me, too, so I don't miss the update). That's kind of why I started this thread; a lot of posts came in over a couple of days w.r.t. this kit...and I was in the mood to make a detailed diagram in Paint.

I'll update my MS Paint image as necessary.

As always, thanks steve.
 
I've noticed that every couple of months or so, Steve will just come in with some little gem of information that only he knows, and smack everyone back to their senses. LOL

BTW - I have a bunch of paint work I need done Mack... what do you charge for this new-found skill? :D

Yep, good old steve. Keeps me honest. and humble. and self-conscious. and intellectually insecure.

MS Paint contracting rates: $20/hr for the first two hours, $50/hr thereafter. Plus a fee of $0.01 for each non-white pixel.
 
calan said:
I've noticed that every couple of months or so, Steve will just come in with some little gem of information that only he knows, and smack everyone back to their senses. LOL

I must be slipping, it used to be a couple of times a day. :sneaky:

kenamond said:
Yep, good old steve. Keeps me honest. and humble. and self-conscious. and intellectually insecure.

You have nothing to be embarrassed about. Most people don't use a bleeder valve and even less have been around long enough to remember when people were first trying to figure this stuff out. I wasn't trying to correct you just contribute to your work. I just wish I could remember who provided the image so I could credit them.
 
You have nothing to be embarrassed about. Most people don't use a bleeder valve and even less have been around long enough to remember when people were first trying to figure this stuff out. I wasn't trying to correct you just contribute to your work. I just wish I could remember who provided the image so I could credit them.

But I'm very critical of myself. It all started when someone annointed me "wiseman". I actually think I'd read about the restrictor plug, but it was back when I was still at the kindergarten level of "BCS mod" that I read it, so it didn't sink in or just faded away.

BTW - on your image above, that would net you $96.98

:sneaky:
Sucker them in with the low hourly rate.
Stick 'em with the fine print ("It's only a penny per pixel!").
And use a heavy line weight wherever possible.
 
I remember making one of these with a $3 home depot twist valve on my van (speed density). Didn't work for crap until I put the restrictor in there. So many places to find a restrictor, welding nozzles, nice ones off of old turbo dodges, anything with a small hole you can stick into a piece of rubber hose (...).

Ball and spring spools up a lot faster for me. If you go past the spring abilities in the ball and spring, you're sunk. Bleeder can go as high as you WG will let you.

You are truly the master of MS paint.
 
Updated the picture. See the original post's "EDIT" section for more info.

It would be nice if someone owning one of these MBCs would test out the restrictor plug idea and let everyone know if that's the "silver bullet". I need confirmation one way or the other so that I can convert this to a tech article.:thumb: And my MS Paint skills shouldn't go to waste, don't you think?;)
 
Ok now Yoda is confused. I can't find a bleeder style MBC at Turbosmart and the "Tee-Style" looks like this but is a typical ball gate MBC

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Do you have a link to the model your trying to write up?
 
Turbosmart must have updated their design, Steve. I renamed Mack's thread to reflect the style of bleeder he was referring to. As I remember it, Turbosmart was the original designer of the "gated tee" style, and was copied rampantly by ebay knock-off companies. It's possible that the knock-offs are still being produced while Turbosmart discontinued their design.

Turbosmart:
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Knock-off:
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Notice that both T fittings have an arrow. That makes me wonder if a restrictor is built into the fitting at the butt end of the arrow. It makes sense from a design standpoint; if you put arrows on things and only have 2 parts and normal hose and clamps, it's more foolproof, but if you have a separate plug or have it built into one of the vaccuum lines, it's more expensive and more error-prone.

That' s why I'd like someone with one of these that actually works to take a closer look at it and see if we can confirm something about the design.

Steve: I also looked at the Turbosmart and TurboXS websites and didn't see anything like the bleeder. All I saw was the ball gate designs. I was looking for a vendor that might have online instructions, but I came up empty.

If someone wants to ship me theirs, I'll inspect it, test it out and send it back.
 
If that's the case, would your first schematic be more accurate if you re-labeled the "T-fitting" as a "Gated T-fitting"?
 
If that's the case, would your first schematic be more accurate if you re-labeled the "T-fitting" as a "Gated T-fitting"?

Well, if we *know* what's up with these things or a home-made one where the plug has to be explicitly added, then I'd probably have a couple of images to cover all the bases. But at the moment, I'm not sure what the deal is. Once I know what's going on, I'd also add a bunch of text describing things.
 
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