click style vs beam style torque wrench

[TimF]

Ok as the title says I was wondering the difference between them. More so if I would be ok using a beam style. The reason why is I did have a click style, but I lost it. Tomorrow is my day off and I wanted to finish my motor. The store is also currently out of click style but they have beam style ones, and they cost 7$ as opposed to the 40$ for the click style. So I instead of paying another 40$ for something I have somewhere would I be ok using a beam wrench. Also my click style did not go under 15lb and the beam is 0-140lbs so I could torque down bolts that don't require as much as 15lbs. But im curious to there accuracy (I know I need to read of the meter). My only other alternative is harbor freight, Walmart (both cheapo click wrenches) or driving a couple towns over to the next store for a decent click style.

 

[bryanwheat]

You can rent a nice click style wrench from most parts stores. I am not sure that I would trust a cheap 7 dollar torque wrench to build an engine. You can get a nice craftsman clicker for like 80 bucks these days with a lifetime warranty.

 

[Dude McGee]

I agree with the above. When I pick up my beam it will read between 0-8 ft lbs, just sitting there (it is duralast brand ), making me question its accuracy. If your putting a wheel on, sure that will do. But for internals, Id try to borrow a nice reputable brand wrench from a friend or something. Ive done remodeling in Aurora, theres a Lowes and they have a decent kobalt brand there they sell.

 

[Laysher91]

You can get a nice craftsman clicker for like 80 bucks these days with a lifetime warranty.

Its a one year warranty.

 

[bryanwheat]

Its a one year warranty.

Mine came with a lifetime.

 

[TimF]

Lowes went out of business , but I guess ill just suck it up and buy another click wrench if a autopart store won't rent one out

 

[WES_393]

For engine assembly I only use a Beam style torque wrench. It's actually a 30 year old Craftsman pivot-handle. A few months back I tested it against a buddies fresh digital Snap-On wrench and found it to be off about 2-3 ft/lb at 80 or higher.

I have a Precision Click style wrench, but I only use that for heavy jobs like lug nuts or suspension bolts. They just aren't very reliable IMO and can be easily damaged if dropped or kept wound up after use. Plus, I like knowing that I'm looking at a physical dial being moved by actual torque, not some mechanism or computer chip. Just look at the tools pro machinists use for extremely precise measurements.

Also, price doesn't say much when it comes to a Beam style wrench. There's just not much they could screw up, it's two rods of steel and a handle... With any measuring tool, just make sure you have a good understanding of how to use it properly.

 

[Mokkan]

Beam style wrenches are fine. They're less expensive because they're less complex than a click style. I'd be careful at the very low end of its torque range and make sure you're viewing the dial at a direct angle and not from the side. Its like reading the speedo from the passenger seat - it'll be a little off.

 

[kchaazz]

I read a huge article in Popular Mechanics a while back on torque wrenches. The beam type seems to be the weapon of choice for most. Click types are less accurate because by the time it clicks, youre already exeeding the torque you have the thing set to, and they have ratcheting action and you should ALWAYS get the bolt youre fastening in one, steady pull without stopping to reposition the wrench. Digitals are nice in that they are like using a beam type but with a nice readout screen, but its good to have them calibrated every so often. If a beam type torque wrench isnt sitting on the zero mark, you can gently grab the beam and push on it until its on the mark again and its good to go.
This is all according to the "experts" who had a hand in writing the article. Personally, Ive used my old Craftsman beam for everything, but my friend insists I use his Brownline digital for headstuds, mains and rods. I use a cheap, 1/4 drive inch lb clicker for the fasteners on my adjustable cam gears.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Brownline
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032A60W2"]$100[/ame]

 

[BogusSVO]

I would not trust a loner torque wrench, a clicker style will be off if not left at it's lowest setting when in storage.

You may want to read this thread.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/466100-torque-wrench.html

In post #11, I have covered the torque wrenches I have used over the years.

 

[serviceguy]

I would not trust a loner torque wrench, a clicker style will be off if not left at it's lowest setting when in storage.

You may want to read this thread.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/466100-torque-wrench.html

In post #11, I have covered the torque wrenches I have used over the years.

Can you give me an idea of the cost of calibrating a click TW at MountzPro? Their website doesn't exactly give away that info...

 

[BogusSVO]

Best I can say is give them a call.

I went to a cook out they had, and they checked mine for free then.

From what I saw in there test shop, they can check from the smallest 1/4 in/lb to some huge torque wrenches, 50k+ ft/lb