BIRDCLAWTSi
15+ Year Contributor
- 541
- 3
- Apr 13, 2009
-
Danbury,
Connecticut
Hi, Looking into a TRU Boost, Just making sure it is not a bleeder style controller. Any input will help.
Thanks-Dave
Thanks-Dave
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
As far as I know it is a bleeder style, it has three ports. One as a filter and two controller depending on if you have an internal or external wastegate. I routed the one the small filter is supposed to go on back into the intake.
It works great, mine spikes a touch but drops right back down and holds boost excellent. It's a bit weird to get used to since you are working with it in duty cycle instead of boost pressure so it varies a touch gear to gear which is normal.
Love mine! The safety features are excellent too.
Joel
Thanks for the input, Just trying to justify the price, If it bleeds off boost pressure, What makes it better than any other $50 boost controller?
That from a push of the button you have 2 different boost modes plus wastegate pressure, the ability to control the wastegate crack pressure, safety features including shutting down to wastegate pressure in an overboost situation, comes with it's own very nice boost gauge with an analog (led) circle along with a digital display. Matches the AEM UEGO beautifully haha.
All from the cabin which is a huge bonus to me.
For being an all in one gauge and controller there are tons of features.
Joel
Also fwiw, it's internally flashed so it remembers all your settings when you take out your battery for anyone wondering.
I use the low boost for driving around town, it limits meI'm curious. If you can support the higher-boost option (for example, it's not race-fuel-specific for the 1/4 mile, etc) then why in the world would you ever use the lower boost option? When I'm worrying about getting the max MPG, I do it with gear selection, mild acceleration, paying attention to traffic lights way in advance, using engine braking, etc. to squeak out 19mpg city. But when I want to GO, I floor it and get the max my setup can handle.
I thought about dual boost setups when I was in that part of my upgrade path and read some threads that made me ask those questions, and I decided that there really wasn't a reason except to have a cool "extra power" button in the cockpit. By the way, that extra unused button below the rear defogger was where I was going to put the switch...fits in with the normal decor and wasn't used (apparently, that button was used in Sebring interiors but not Talon/Eclipses). I was going to use a spare defogger button but paint a smiley face on it.
I still love my Joe P IL, set to 15psi. Simple, robust, accurate.
Just curious.
. (And other people driving my car
).