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1G Hate the 2600, Which Multi Disk Clutch ?

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
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Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
As the title says, im steering away from the 2600, cant stand it anymore....I was looking at the act or quarter master 8 leg....What would you guys run? Currently im running the 2600 with the act flywheel. Clutch does not like shifting over 7500....
 
The QM with the solid center hub is the only one that won't damage your input shaft. I ran a PTT twin and after 6k miles the wear on my input shaft from the narrow disk splines was very noticeable.
 
Are you running a 4 or 6 puck? Ever check for clutch drag? Gear oil you use? Theres a lot of factors that cause hard shifting. My 2600 shifts fine up to 8.5k. Setting up nlts helped a lot and it sounds cool haha
 
I've shifted a 2600 and 2900 over 9k.

Check your pedal assembly before dropping $1500 on a clutch. I also have a thread in the drivetrain section on modding the pedal assembly.
 
I am replacing my clutch with something similar. Check out southbend clutches. I ahven't heard a bad thing about them, they are supposed to feel like stock and hold a lot of power.
 
I've shifted a 2600 and 2900 over 9k.

Check your pedal assembly before dropping $1500 on a clutch. I also have a thread in the drivetrain section on modding the pedal assembly.
I am running the 2600 with a street disk, im starting to feel like im going to run out of clutch with this setup. Im planning on 30+ psi with the pt6266 on race gas or ethanol. Its really not that bad honestly ....you just need to really focus when shifting. My main concern was running out of clutch
 
Are you running a 4 or 6 puck? Ever check for clutch drag? Gear oil you use? Theres a lot of factors that cause hard shifting. My 2600 shifts fine up to 8.5k. Setting up nlts helped a lot and it sounds cool haha
Street disk, oem tob, all new hardware. All oem fluids.
 
I am running the 2600 with a street disk, im starting to feel like im going to run out of clutch with this setup. Im planning on 30+ psi with the pt6266 on race gas or ethanol. Its really not that bad honestly ....you just need to really focus when shifting. My main concern was running out of clutch
You'll run out of clutch soon with a street disk.
 
You'll run out of clutch soon with a street disk.
This is what I was scared of. Now the reality is, I can change the disk with something more aggressive or just bite the bullet and go with a multi disk which will not only hold the power but drive better and be easier on my pedal assembly. Am I wrong?
 
If you street drive your car twin disks usually suck, and they don't last.

However, they shift great at high rpm, and hold power. They can accelerate wear in the transmission because they don't dampen the input shaft.

I run a 2900 and 6-puck in a setup similar to yours. It works for me, but I had to change around my clutch hydraulics, and changed the point the clutch clevis attaches to the arm to get more throw out of the system.

The reason I run a single disk is purely economic. I drive my car 10,000-15,000 miles a year. That's on the very good end of longevity for a twin. With the way I beat on my car I suspect it wouldn't last a year. It's bad enough I can barely get a trans to last that long, let alone have to replace $500+ in clutch parts.
 
If you street drive your car twin disks usually suck, and they don't last.

However, they shift great at high rpm, and hold power. They can accelerate wear in the transmission because they don't dampen the input shaft.

I run a 2900 and 6-puck in a setup similar to yours. It works for me, but I had to change around my clutch hydraulics, and changed the point the clutch clevis attaches to the arm to get more throw out of the system.

The reason I run a single disk is purely economic. I drive my car 10,000-15,000 miles a year. That's on the very good end of longevity for a twin. With the way I beat on my car I suspect it wouldn't last a year. It's bad enough I can barely get a trans to last that long, let alone have to replace $500+ in clutch parts.
The car is my weekend warrior / race car ..... basically my toy. The way I was looking at it was going with a unspung disk/ solid hub ceramic/ Kevlar disk was basically on par with a multi disk as once up to temperature they don't allow for slippage which Can cause damage to the input shaft. My street disk will slip and transfer that energy away from the input shaft. So either way I'm risking damage to the transmission. Cost is a hug win for the single disk.... but at what cost? Are you guys making 3-500 and putting it down with the 2900? I'm referring to torque obviously.
 
Have you looked at southbend? If my new clutch does what its supposed to this will be the best clutch ive ever had in 25 years of ownership. So far it drives awesome, almost like stock but its rated for 500 ft lbs plus. Kevlar ceramic tz/b with ss plate.
 
As far as I can tell the 2900 is good for 700+, especially with a turbo that's not making a lot of torque.

When I was doing some cam, cam timing, and exhaust housing testing I was able to crack 600 with under 400ft/lbs.

My 2900 was also good for a turbo making 40+ psi by 5,000rpms, and trapping high 130's in a full weight 1g. At this power level a 2600 with a cheap 6-puck disk would slip after a launch, or over 35 psi.

The act puck material seems to be super grippy. Whatever you do don't get a Kevlar. If you slip it for the launch it'll slip all the way down the track.


The twins that damage the input shaft do so because the disks have their own splines. The surface area for the torque to pass through the disk into the shaft is less than a single disk. The newer twins with a large splined hub that goes on the input shaft that has the disks splined to the outside of it has a much larger input shaft spline engagement area. However the twins still are hard on vibration sensitive parts on the input shaft like synchro springs.
 
I've never run an ACT with a street disk. My current setup is an ACT 2600 with a sprung 6-puck. It holds my 450awhp 400lb-ft of torque (at the wheel hubs on a dyno pack) and shifts at 8k rpm just fine.

And to add to what everyone else says, I've never run a south bend clutch but my next one will probably be from them based on all the positive reviews.
 
I've never run an ACT with a street disk. My current setup is an ACT 2600 with a sprung 6-puck. It holds my 450awhp 400lb-ft of torque (at the wheel hubs on a dyno pack) and shifts at 8k rpm just fine.

And to add to what everyone else says, I've never run a south bend clutch but my next one will probably be from them based on all the positive reviews.
Your running a sprung 6 puck? Ive heard running a sprung pucked disk is a big no no? Youve had good luck?
 
Nobody has any experience with the act twin disk? I messaged turbo tom on youtube, he seems to have liked the clutch
 
Its funny.....this is a never ending process, you upgrade the turbo and now need a new clutch for the power increase. Now that my clutch is better I need a cage because my cars faster.....and on and on and on....
 
I'd just enjoy the car as it sits for a while....unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket.
Im not touching the car.....Im just planning for whats to come. My next day off im going to be modifying my exhaust so that the dump tube can be connected in line underneath. I cant stand the sound......Im going to have to connected to my electric cutout
 
Your running a sprung 6 puck? Ive heard running a sprung pucked disk is a big no no? Youve had good luck?

This is my second time running a sprung 6-puck and a 2600 in my car. The first time it was in for about 30k miles no problem and then I got a good deal on a PTT twin disk so I swapped it. The PTT needed new clutch discs every 5k miles so after about 20k miles and four sets of clutch disks I got really sick of pulling my transmission and went back to a 2600 with a sprung 6-puck. I have about 10k miles with lots of 6k RPM launches and 8k RPM shifts on it and it's holding strong.
 
I just don't understand the junk aftermarket multidisk clutches out there for this car. There are cars that come from the factory with multidisk clutches and they last way more than 5,000-10,000 miles. They also don't sound like garbage at a redlight.

Maybe they are limited in their designs by the stock available dimensions. Either way, I love to drive my car, and replacing the clutch constantly is not something I'm wanting to do. I'd rather get the trans face plated and just add several hundred dollars to my annual trans replacement.
 
I just don't understand the junk aftermarket multidisk clutches out there for this car. There are cars that come from the factory with multidisk clutches and they last way more than 5,000-10,000 miles. They also don't sound like garbage at a redlight.

Maybe they are limited in their designs by the stock available dimensions. Either way, I love to drive my car, and replacing the clutch constantly is not something I'm wanting to do. I'd rather get the trans face plated and just add several hundred dollars to my annual trans replacement.
Well it sounds like when the time comes I'll be replacing my clutch with a 6 puck. I guess it's overkill in my situation to go that big anyway. Every time I take the car out I get worried my clutch is going to go. Act claims 400 ft lbs on the street disk..... that's a lot of torque
 
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