ECMlink GVR4 SD Tuning advice

[LLBeans]

This has been a long time in the making for me. These are some of my first logs and first time sharing logs. I've been chipping away at reliability issues and maintenance on #231/1k for about 4 years now. I've completed the switch to SD and its running! It seems to not like cold starts right now though. Today I was able to see improved WB numbers after I fresh air calibrated the LC-1 that is installed. With using bits and pieces of information from folks here, this is the farthest I have ever gotten with a project. I am grateful to this community. With that said, I think I am at a point where I could use some pointing in the right direction. I've been using videos from Scott Laird and as recently as today, I stumbled upon The Big Book of Random Tuning Tips sticky. I know Jafro has some tuning videos as well.

I will be taking my car to a professional soon for tuning and I'm looking for some guidance on making sure this thing isn't dumping fuel into the cylinders. I've been concerned that this cars cylinder walls have been washed out since I took ownership of the car. As soon as I notice the smell of gas in my oil, its changed. The last oil change had way less that 2k on it maybe 500miles. Since ownership I have changed the oil yearly, as the car hasn't been driven all that much since it has arrived home. This most recent oil I just drain had maybe 100 miles on it, if that. Test miles. Post Transmission build rebuild and pre SD switch. I had to take the car out a hand full of times to clutch drag test and diagnose my clutch system issues, adjustments and testing. The pedal box had a secret for me. I still have more adjustment left to do in the clutch system. I want to put some miles on the car to make sure I have everything dialed shifting wise before it goes to the dyno. So far, zero miles since the car has started up on speed density. There is fresh oil in the car now with only two or three start ups and idles on it totaling maybe 15 minutes of runtime total.

Like mentioned above, this is my first time posting datalog files so they might not show up at first while I figure this out. I am not really computer savvy. I found a thread from 2015 that says there is a gray box somewhere that say link file or upload file. I'm not seeing that though. Pretty sure these sites were revamped recently yeah? I tried uploading through add photo, ha.

Edit: I just found the Wiseman request sticky. Ill be working on providing what information I do have and getting the information that I am lacking as well. Ill need to buy/make a few things.

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[LLBeans]

--------------------------------------------------Reserving Space-----------------------------------------------

Wiseman checklist Progress

1. No boost, Vac or Exhaust leaks - Sourcing air compressor and fittings for this

2. Verify mechanical timing -

3. Verify base timing - Sourcing Timing light

4. Ignition system - Sourcing feeler gauges

5. Motor health - Compression tested before I started Trans work. 120 to 121 across the board, cylinders were within 1 point of each other. The oil I just drained looks clean. no glitter or bits. just smells of gas. New Innovate oil pressure sensor remote mounted off of the back of the head. The reading is low. 7psi at idle. Ill be checking oil pressure at the OFH. A Harbor freight pressure testing kit is on the list.

Note : Tested at 1 mile of elevation.

6. Basic throttle body adjustments -

7. Compression ration - Factory 7.5 : 1

8. Wiring and sensors -

9. No DTC or CEL codes - Check

10. Electrical system -

11. Base fuel pressure and injector values - 42psi cold and car off, 38psi...ish warm and idling. FIC low impedance injectors 1050cc. Previous owner information. Confimed

12. Properly calibrated and configured WB sensor - Check

13. Type of fuel - Pump gas, 91

14. ECMlink How to vids -

 

[d_oskim]

Your Global Fuel is calculated for a 1150cc Injector so that would explain why your lean at Idle. Try your global at -57 and set your Deadtime to 0.

Your VE table needs some work. The cells are all over the place. Lock the car in Open Loop and dial in your VE cells at idle (typically around 40-55). You can also play with the Deadtime if you find you need a high VE value at idle to get your car to your target. Once you have that dialed in, you can drive the car around to collect data for the part throttle area of your VE table. Then use Links "SD VE Adjust (CombinedFT)" feature and that will make adjustments to your part throttle cells in your VE table. Keep in mind that you will want to smooth the cells if there are any crazy jumps in VE values from the adjustments.

Your Cranking Fuel Adjustment setting has been changed from stock so keep that in mind if you're having cranking issues. I typically leave all of the stuff in the DA tables alone aside from the Injector Voltage data until I finish tuning. Then I dial in all of the other DA tables.

Also, your base fuel pressure should be set with the car warm and running by pulling the vacuum line off of the AFPR, plug the vacuum line with your finger and adjust to your base (37psi).

 

[LLBeans]

I did a low effort google search a while back on ID 1050CC injectors. I don't remember confirming that they exist. I remember seeing.. 1000, 1150, 1200 maybe. I can double check this. Previous owner could have misstated. If there are 1150cc injectors in the car. Where should I focus my attention for my lean condition?

I was afraid I was at the point where adjusting tables begins. This will be my first time using this interface. Ill watch some more ECMlink videos to get a lil more comfortable.

I'm adding correctly set base fuel pressure to my list. Thank you for the input!

Your Cranking Fuel Adjustment setting has been changed from stock so keep that in mind if you're having cranking issues. I typically leave all of the stuff in the DA tables alone aside from the Injector Voltage data until I finish tuning. Then I dial in all of the other DA tables.

This is something I will have to do reading on. The only setting I remember messing with related with fuel was toggling the FP always on to test the fuel pump.

I edited my checklist to reflect.

@d_oskim I had the brand incorrect. They are vintage FIC low impedance injectors. I didn't find 1050 when I looked in the past. They have since changed their website and revamped their injectors. Ill have to dig deeper on this.

Edit: The fuel rail is gonna have be pulled. Ill have to look for part number inscription.

Edit 2: I was able to get some cotton swabs down in there and I did find 1050 engraving. Im gonna try your suggestion for getting that down from 1150cc settings.

Edit 3: Suggested changes made. It seems to be idling much much better. I attached a fresh datalog. I still um unsure what DA tables are. What does DA stand for?

 

[d_oskim]

I edited my checklist to reflect.

@d_oskim I had the brand incorrect. They are vintage FIC low impedance injectors. I didn't find 1050 when I looked in the past. They have since changed their website and revamped their injectors. Ill have to dig deeper on this.

Edit: The fuel rail is gonna have be pulled. Ill have to look for part number inscription.

Edit 2: I was able to get some cotton swabs down in there and I did find 1050 engraving. Im gonna try your suggestion for getting that down from 1150cc settings.

Edit 3: Suggested changes made. It seems to be idling much much better. I attached a fresh datalog. I still um unsure what DA tables are. What does DA stand for?

"DA" Is the Direct Access Tab of settings. I made some changes to your tune I'll attach two different files. One is your ECU Live settings and the other is DA changes. I smoothed your VE cells and set your wastegate duty cycle to 0 under your Live settings. Under the Direct Access table I set your Cranking Fuel back to the stock values. If you notice that your car cranks a lot more than it did before to start, set it back to the previous values.

Keep in mind your Open Loop Thresholds are inflated so you can hit more cells in the VE table when you are driving around to dial in that table so I highly recommend not getting into boost since in Closed Loop your car is going to be targeting 14.7:1 the whole time.

Hope that helps,
Dave

 

[CrackedDSM]

"DA" Is the Direct Access Tab of settings. I made some changes to your tune I'll attach two different files. One is your ECU Live settings and the other is DA changes. I smoothed your VE cells and set your wastegate duty cycle to 0 under your Live settings. Under the Direct Access table I set your Cranking Fuel back to the stock values. If you notice that your car cranks a lot more than it did before to start, set it back to the previous values.

Keep in mind your Open Loop Thresholds are inflated so you can hit more cells in the VE table when you are driving around to dial in that table so I highly recommend not getting into boost since in Closed Loop your car is going to be targeting 14.7:1 the whole time.

Hope that helps,
Dave

Damn, can't beat that. I'm envious AF.

 

[Stapl3]

Your LoadScale is 114.1 when it must be 100.

For deadtime values, I would use:

7v -> 2907
9v -> 1933
12v -> 1126
14v -> 857
16v -> 735
19v -> 630

 

[LLBeans]

I havnt had much time the past couple days to do more to the car other than load up the changes @d_oskim helped me with. Massive improvement

Cold start up is rough just as it was before the changes. It will fire over pretty quick and choke out. 3rd try it fires up quickly and settles in. It was doing this before the changes as well. Like she’s groggy when she wakes up.

I’m hoping to get my hands in there some more in the next couple day. I was able to pick up a timing light and oil pressure tester. I’ll be able to confirm more of the check list soon! I really appreciate the help!!

 

[LLBeans]

Your LoadScale is 114.1 when it must be 100.

For deadtime values, I would use:

7v -> 2907
9v -> 1933
12v -> 1126
14v -> 857
16v -> 735
19v -> 630

Adding this to my list.

 

[d_oskim]

I havnt had much time the past couple days to do more to the car other than load up the changes @d_oskim helped me with. Massive improvement

Cold start up is rough just as it was before the changes. It will fire over pretty quick and choke out. 3rd try it fires up quickly and settles in. It was doing this before the changes as well. Like she’s groggy when she wakes up.

I’m hoping to get my hands in there some more in the next couple day. I was able to pick up a timing light and oil pressure tester. I’ll be able to confirm more of the check list soon! I really appreciate the help!!

Are you running an ISC?

 

[LLBeans]

Are you running an ISC?

This Tan thing here on the bottom of the TB?

I have yet to work on the TB of this car. Havnt set aside the time to read the BISS stuff yet.

With the exception of plugging the EGR lines and the coolant lines to the TB. They were open to the elements when I took ownership. I’m willing to bet it needs a rebuild, or if I can find a refurbished one. That would be more ideal. I thought I saw there was a company that was still rebuilding DSM throttle bodies.

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[LLBeans]

Your LoadScale is 114.1 when it must be 100.

For deadtime values, I would use:

7v -> 2907
9v -> 1933
12v -> 1126
14v -> 857
16v -> 735
19v -> 630

So I change the Deadtimes and Loadscale. Was not happy at all. So I reverted and just change Loadscale to 100. All this after I had let the car warm up. Back on old deadtimes, car fires up.

I found a data sheet for the Injectors I have. Originally posted by @DSMPT

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[CrackedDSM]

So I change the Deadtimes and Loadscale. Was not happy at all. So I reverted and just change Loadscale to 100. All this after I had let the car warm up. Back on old deadtimes, car fires up.

I found a data sheet for the Injectors I have. Originally posted by @DSMPT

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Absolutely same thing and I have the same injectors. I used ecmlinks deadtimes that staple posted and the car hated it. Used those ones from Hiroshi and car loves it.

 

[Stapl3]

My deadtime suggestions are for the shape of the chart which is the behavior of the injector. The differences compared to the current one used:

7v - 3.2% less deadtime
9v - 6.1% less deatime
12v - 28.4% less deadtime
14v - 35.7% less deadtime
16v - 35.2% less deadtime
19v - 35.2% less deadtime

The global adjustment to all of these values would be on the fuel tab. You'll have to add deadtime there from your value of 0 to counteract these DA table changes.

 

[LLBeans]

@Stapl3 InjBatteryadj is import to have in displayed values correct?

I see it in DA. I’m having trouble finding it in displayed/captured values for logging. I could have sworn I seen below the capture graph. I feel like this is part of what I’ll need to find the voltage points in the tune to adjust?

Earlier I did a cruise log with load scale fixed, and the old deadtimes. I just loaded your DTs back in and now I’m in the fuel tab learning myself some stuff. I’m still digging for the how to(s) that I need to follow for this part.

 

[LLBeans]

Definitely scratching my head here. I don’t understand how to reflect those deadtimes in the fuel tab that were made in DA. I see the min RPM on the slider table starts at 2000rpm. I understand from a video that Global is basically InjBatteryAdj. Adjustments are supposed to happed based off battery voltage, yes? In my light cruise log I didn't notice voltages outside of 13v. So I'm unsure of how to line the data up. Trying my best to read deeper into this hoping that is makes sense at some point. I'm gonna sleep on it.

For now I’m adding the cruise log I made earlier. This is without the dead time adjustments in DA.

 

[Stapl3]

Try these.

 

[LLBeans]

@Stapl3 Holy Shit, its idling! I checked in DA. The values you suggested are still there. I noticed Deadtime in the fuel tab is at 375. I did read last night that 330 was a good starting place but was too tired to input numbers into they system. Also, read that adding dead time here would add dead time in InjBatteryAdj. That also made me a bit nervous, so i held off. I will read more about air fuel smoothing tonight.

edit: I understand a little more now when you mentioned adding deadtime to my value of 0. I may have been paying to much attention to the sliders.

 

[Stapl3]

So to understand what happened. I provided the Direct Access values but didn't go past that and it caused confusion and poor results I didn't foresee as posted a few up. I'm admittedly a bad teacher.

First of all, adjusting deadtime on the Fuel tab and adjusting deadtime on the Direct Access InjBatteryAdj table/graph/chart/whatever are the exact same thing. For example, if I go to the Fuel tab and put in 100 for deadtime, then I go Injbatteryadj in Direct Access and remove 100 from all values from 7v to 19v, literally nothing has happened.

All that I did was provide the values I would use for those specific injectors between 7v and 19v. That shape on the graph there in Injbatteryadj and those values are the personality of the injectors and should be left alone.

But now you'd think, I loaded in those Injbatteryadj values and the car sucks. That's the part I left you guys on your own with. Look a few posts up where I posted the % difference. So what do you do with that information? The car lives between 12v and 14v operation, agreed? I simply looked at the difference between my numbers and the numbers you had and at 12v the difference was 374 and at 14v it was 373. That is why on the Fuel tab I put a value of 375 to offset it.

The next move is to provide another log of it idling fully warmed up, then cruising on a long flat road held at a steady RPM, in multiple gears, so we can tweak from there.

 

[jed344]

So to understand what happened. I provided the Direct Access values but didn't go past that and it caused confusion and poor results I didn't foresee as posted a few up. I'm admittedly a bad teacher.

First of all, adjusting deadtime on the Fuel tab AND adjusting deadtime on the Direct Access InjBatteryAdj table/graph/chart/whatever are the exact same thing. For example, if I go to the Fuel tab and put in 100 for deadtime, then I go Injbatteryadj in Direct Access and remove 100 from all values from 7v to 19v, literally nothing has happened.

All that I did was provide the values I would use for those specific injectors between 7v and 19v. That shape on the graph there in Injbatteryadj and those values are the personality of the injectors and should be left alone.

But now you'd think, I loaded in those Injbatteryadj values and the car sucks. That's the part I left you guys on your own with. Look a few posts up where I posted the % difference. So what do you do with that information? The car lives between 12v and 14v operation, agreed? I simply looked at the difference between my numbers and the numbers you had and at 12v the difference was 374 and at 14v it was 373. That is why on the Fuel tab I put a value of 375 to offset it.

The next move is to provide another log of it idling fully warmed up, then cruising on a long flat road held at a steady RPM, in multiple gears, so we can tweak from there.

Correct. The dead time in fuel tab apply's that all the time at any voltage where the DA has more definition you could say as it has the ability based off voltage to change dead times. I often will plug the DA values in then tweak the dead time in fuel tab to get results i want. Then you can zero dead time back out and add that change to the DA injector battery offset. 12-14v honestly is what really matters there as if its using higher or lower then that something is wrong anyway. So just some settings that make sense outside of normal range is sufficient as likely it will never use them anyway.

 

[LLBeans]

Mechanical timing confirmed. Marks line up at TDC. I did this multiple times to be sure. Checking spark plug gaps tonight and seeing if I can make a cheap boost leak test kit out of things I have in the garage. I picked up a timing light so I can verify that as well.

I definitely do not blame you for anything @Stapl3. I understood there was more I needed to do on my end but wasn’t able to line the dots up. I’m understanding this a little bit better thanks to you. After a while the bits and pieces from the how tos and everything starts blurring. I’m culpable in this. All the information was there in my face, but a combination of being scared to mess up and not fully understanding electronics are my pitfalls here. Historically, computers and wiring have been black magic to me.

 

[jed344]

Without seeing a updated idle log i am going off what i saw from the first one. I will say you want air flow per rev around .25 if it has stock cams and idle rpm. To change that you increase or lower the VE table in the idle rpm area. When you do this it will also effect fueling but ignore that for now just get the air flow per rev correct. Then once that is right look at the STFT ( short term fuel trims) you want that within 5% of zero, assuming your global is close then use dead time or inj battery adj to get the fuel trim there. The isc position ideally .35-.45. To adjust that you need to adjust the biss screw and watch the position. This will not change instantly and takes time to change unless you do some things to force it. Yours is not far off but being it looked like in 50 range that indicates the biss needs opened a little bit. The first log showed car was very lean and likely now that you had made changes and it idles that is much closer.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Great info in here honestly. Gonna do the same with mine.

 

[LLBeans]

Checked my plug gaps. There were close to .030 on NGK BPR7ES. I got those down to .028. Note here I'm running a EvoIII 16g. Last I remember the car was running 21-21 PSI of boost.

Currently warming the car up at the moments and grabbing a coldstart/warmup log. Ill grab the warmed Idle log after I verify timing with the light.

Edit: Here is a log of it Coldstarting, warming up and Idling a while. I'm verifying my timing at the moment. I can provide a shorter warm idle log after.

 

[LLBeans]

Alright! At op temp. Timing gun set to zero. Pin is Grounded. Car is Idling between 800-900 RPM. Showing 5* before TDC.

Air flow per rev is about .15 right now. If target is .25 then I should back out BISS a hair? Just going opposite of what I believe was mentioned above.

Here is a warm and fresh Idle log.

Edit: I only have a bicycle pump. Not really feeling the urge to put my efforts into hand pumping the system to 25+ PSI, . So I may run her down to a local shop and datalog on the way. Just have them do the boost and vacuum test done along with the compression test to bring those numbers up to date.