Tuning Advice

[grnchevyz]

i'm installing my WBO2 tomorrow and converting to MAFT.

What I am looking for is a walkthrough or just advice on how to properly tune non-WOT and WOT values with DSMLink and the above add-ons.

I'm sorry if this question sounds "stupid" for lack of a better word, but I have never tuned with DSMLink before. I could tune just fine with my SAFC, or I think I did, but this beast is different!

Thanks guys!

 

[98evoIIIpwr]

The link is actually easier then the SAFC. Make sure that the first things you do are set your Global and deadtime. Do some logs and play around with it. Read the users manual. Thats what I did when I first got the link and it helped tremedously. You have access to the forums right?

 

[CanadianTSi]

The guys on the DSMLink Forum should be able to give you a very detailed walk through if there isn't a sticky on it already.

 

[GVR4592]

i'm installing my WBO2 tomorrow and converting to MAFT.

What I am looking for is a walkthrough or just advice on how to properly tune non-WOT and WOT values with DSMLink and the above add-ons.

I'm sorry if this question sounds "stupid" for lack of a better word, but I have never tuned with DSMLink before. I could tune just fine with my SAFC, or I think I did, but this beast is different!

Thanks guys!

The fuel map in Dsmlink is for WOT only, but timing changes are applied all the time. If you read through the manual it explains how to get your fuel trims correct, once that's done then WOT tuning is almost identical to tuning with the SAFC.

I wouldn't convert to the MAFT until you figure out how to use Dsmlink a little better. The MAFT can be troublesome to tune, and it might get a little confusing at first.

 

[grnchevyz]

Thanks for the advice...

Now, what kind of timing should I be seeing at idle? Cause the car idles at 2.5k to 3k and timing sits around 25* and 30*

I thought at idle I should be seeing 5*???

I'll pull out my timing light and double check.

Also, to tune idle, what values should I be monitoring and where ideally would I want them? Same goes fot WOT.

Thanks again guys!

 

[scottsee]

Also, to tune idle, what values should I be monitoring and where ideally would I want them? Same goes fot WOT!

Log, and post the following values after Cooltmp has reached at least 185.


ThrotPos
TPSvolts
ISCPostion
LrndIdleAdj
IdleSW
RawThrotPos

You want the the TPS volts to show as close to .63v as passable and a RawThroPos of 32. If they are significantly off you will need to loosen up the two 8mm bolts and rotate it until you it is reached. I highly recommended log this while the engine is off. You might also need to loosen the two 10mm throttle cable adjusting bolts on the intake manny if your RawThrotPos & TpsVolts raise up past their set values when the car becomes warm. You only need to touch the Throttle cable if this happens or the TpsVolts are above 3% at idle. If it is needed, loosen and adjust while the car is running and release only a very little amount of tension. If the idle drops then you know if was needed. To make sure you haven't over tightened, or over loosened the Throttle cable you can turn the car off and stream the TpsPos. 92% is when WOT is seen, anything over that is fine, mine is at 97%. If you can't get it to 0% just go into the ECU/Logfile>TPS and adjust the offset -1 per 1%.

Your LrndIdleAdj and ISCPost should be as close to 140/30 as you can. Adjust Biss screw as needed. If you are significantly off I would advised you to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery making ecu go into learn idle mode much faster. Setting the learned idle and can take a long time (30m to 1 hour). Be patient, make minor adjustments, take for a 5 min spin and adjust accordingly.

Once you have set those values, Add:

LTFTlow
LTFTmid
MAF

Take the car on a nice long 20min cuise on the freeway maintaing a steady RPM with as little boost as possible. This will stabilize your LTFTmid (150hz or 250hz depening on speed). Pull over and let your car idle for at least 5 mins. That will stabilize your LTFTlow. That stuff should be covered in your Users manual. If you need to make adjustments we will go from their.

 

[scottsee]

Written by Ron Francis, aka Lookmeup on Dsmlink forums.

DSMLINK FORUMS MAFT CALIBRATION with WBO2, full articall found here..
http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3529&highlight=MAFT+calibrate

Assumptions for Using This Tuning Technique:
-Zero boost/vacuum leaks
-You know the correct deadtime and global fuel settings for your injectors, for your car.
-If you are using recommended injector setting, your base fuel pressure is 43.5psi.
-Your not over running your fuel pressure regulator.
-Your fuel system is adequate for your application.

Log the following values:
-RPM (~ your DSMLink setting)
-LTFT-Lo
-LTFT-Mid
-STFT
-WBO2
-A/F Ratio
-RawMAS

MAFt Set-Up:
-Set MAFt base fuel setting for stock injectors (450's).
-I like to do all of my adjustments with the DSMLink airflow table. SO..
-Set MAFt idle, mid & WOT knobs to zero.
-Clamp IAT/Baro signal in DSMlink under Misc.

Idle Tuning (LTFT-Lo) 50hz
-Set injector fuel settings to what you were already running them at or what is recommended in the DSMLink guide.
-While idling the engine watch the LTFT-Lo and STFT.
-If LTFT-Lo fuel trims are positive, add air at the 50 Hz point in the airflow table.
-If LTFT-Lo fuel trims are negative, subtract air at the 50 Hz point in the airflow table.
-Adjust the airflow 1% for each 1% fuel trims are adjusting fuel.
EXAMPLE: If LTFT-Lo is at a constant +5%, add +5% to the 50 Hz slider in the airflow table. If the LTFT-Lo is at a constant +12.5% and STFT is at +13%, add +26% to the 50 Hz slider in the airflow table. Repeat until you are happy.

Rev Tuning (STFT) 150hz
-After you are done with idle tuning, rev the engine and keep it at the 150 Hz level.
-Watch your STFT's for needed adjustments.
-If STFT fuel trims are positive, add air at the 150 Hz point in the airflow table.
-If STFT fuel trims are negative, subtract air at the 150 Hz point in the airflow table.
-Adjust the airflow 1% for each 1% fuel trims are adjusting fuel.
EXAMPLE: If STFT's are bouncing between +14% and +16%, add +15% to the 150 Hz slider in the airflow table. Repeat until you are happy.

Cruise Tuning (LTFT-Mid) 250hz
-Drive on the freeway at a steady speed to get stable LTFT-Mid fuel trims.
-If LTFT-Mid fuel trims are positive, add air at the 250 Hz point in the airflow table.
-If LTFT-Mid fuel trims are negative, subtract air at the 250 Hz point in the airflow table.
-Adjust the airflow 1% for each 1% fuel trims are adjusting fuel.
EXAMPLE: If LTFT-Mid is at a constant +7%, add +7% to the 250 Hz slider in the airflow table. Repeat until you are happy.

WOT Tuning (A/F Ratio, WBO2, & RawMAF) 400hz, 800hz, 1200hz, 1600hz, 2000hz, 2400hz
-It is easier to do this if A/F Ratio is right above WBO2 in the DSMLink application.
-After a 3rd gear pull from 1500rpm to redline study the relationship between A/F Ratio and WBO2 at each RawMAF Hz point.
-Adjust the airflow at each RawMAF Hz point in the Airflow Table using the associated Hz point in the log.
-When A/F Ratio is richer than WBO2 at add airflow. OR when A/F Ratio is below WBO2 on the graph, add airflow to move A/F Ratio up. OR when you want more fuel, add more airflow.
-When A/F Ratio is leaner than WBO2 subtract airflow. OR when A/F Ratio is above WBO2 on the graph, subtract airflow to move A/F Ratio down. OR when you want less fuel, subtract airflow.
-For each 0.10 A/F Ratio is off, adjust by 1% airflow.
EXAMPLE: You make a pull and you get the following results:
RawMAF....400......800......1200.....1600....2000. ...2400
A/F Ratio...9.3.......9.5........9.4.......9.2......9. 3.......9.5
WBO2.......11.0.....12.0......10.7......9.6......9 .6.......9.4
Adjust.....+17%....+25%.....+13%...+4%....+3%..... .-1%

Notes
-With this method my fuel trims are both with-in 1% of zero and my A/F Ratio are WBO2 shadow each other with-in 1-2% for an entire pull.
-LTFT-Lo tends to be slightly unstable, so do not go crazy trying to get it perfect. With-in 3% of each other and with-in 5% of zero is acceptable.
-Some changes to the Airflow Table at the 150 Hz point maybe needed when "cruise tuning."
-Adjustment to any slider in the airflow table WILL affect the two sliders adjacent to it.
-For me, getting the 400 Hz point perfect created a nasty dip at the untunable 500-600 Hz range. Tuning the 500 Hz point using the 400 Hz point in the Airflow Table worked much better.
-Sometimes tuning using a HZ point 100 more than what you are tuning, works better. So, instead of 1200 Hz sometimes using 1300 Hz works better.
-This is not the "Ideal, Perfect" way to tune a MAFt, but it was sure easy. As with any tuning the main problem arises with boost leaks and fuel delivery discrepancies. So long as you have no boost leaks and your fuel system is working properly, this is an extremely easy and viable way to tune a MAFt.

 

[grnchevyz]

ok, so I finally got to installing the WBO2 and fix some wiring issues.

Here is the idle run log. 30secs at operating temp.

All seems good but the idle is high so is the timing.

Any input before I set fuel trims...or should I set them anyway and maybe the idle will solve itself?

Also, I hooked up the WBO2 to the EGR Solenoid on the ECU...how do I tell Link to use that input, it wasn't in the list of available sensors...

Thanks!

 

[grnchevyz]

Never mind the EGR thing, I'll just use the MDP. Anyway, can I go ahead and tune LTFT and all that fun stuff with an idle like that? If so, I'll get that done today.

Thanks!

 

[grnchevyz]

Here is another log showing LFTF's STFT and MAFRaw.

Notice how MAFRaw shows 67.7Hz...could this be my idling issue? A Bad MAF sensor?

Nothing I do in airflow affects the LTFT-Lo. It just idles too high.

I'm lost now...

 

[Steve93Talon]

Why is everyone so "helpful" with DSMlink tuning on this forum lately? As a paying customer, I like the fact that the DSMlink forums are closed to non-owners. Posting help in here is a free ticket to all of the illegal users. I'm not implying anything about anyone in this thread, but anyone else can search.

 

[d j]

illegal users

explain how it/they're illegal, please.

 

[grnchevyz]

I'm not implying anything about anyone in this thread, but anyone else can search

I agree with you but why go about and post some crap like that in this thread??? I was all excited that someone replied to it and maybe could give me insight on the issue I am having. I posted it also on DSMLink forums...if you are a NON-ILLEGAL user of it (if you have it) You could have easily looked at the Engine Management forums and see it there and not make me look like a freakin idiot and pirate.

Thanks.

 

[daren_p]

explain how it/they're illegal, please.

Not sure if you can even get "illegal" copies now. People used to make a copy of the disk and get a std computer cable & sell it stateing they lost the connector that plugs into the diagnostic port. Origionally you could call up DSMLink and tell them you lost the connector & I imagine for some price they would send you out a new one. They caught on to this scam & now, even if you are a legit owner & purchased dsmlink though them directly they will not supply you a new connector.

Lou, Steve did state that he wasn't implying that anyone in this thread might be using illegal copies, think he was just venting a little.

 

[scottsee]

From my personal opinion I would rather have these kind of general questions here then in the Dsmlink forum's. General tunning and engine behavior questions threads are very seldom responded to on that site. Besides there is 7 times the amount of traffic on this site then on the Link forum.

I've been on the Link forum for 2 years and probably only have 150 posts. Every question about a dsmlink has been throughly answered. 5 Min's of post searching will result in the answer to just about any questions. Especially these. But thats besides the point. We're not here to give "Search" answers.. We are here to give solid honest advice that will help out a member who needs it. Besides. The tuning section of Tuners is relatively new, so the more adequate information posted in this section will benefit the returning members down the road..

 

[grnchevyz]

I know steve wasn't implying anything as he said in his post but the fact of the matter is now people have question marks in their head, like it or not, implied or not, it labels someone rather quickly and then its ten fold harder to regain trust.

Just saying that if it was for venting, then start a thread in the hangout.

I posted this here to get experienced advice on an issue that I am having. I don't want to waste countless hours of tuning only to find out that it's gone to waste (not the learning part granted) because the idle was screwy and not set properly prior to fine tuning.

I have gotten answers on the Link forums on my issues. Turns out that my counterpart in crime at the shop thought he'd be ncie and play with the BISS to help my idling issue. problem is the BISS was quite old and was never messed with. He tore the o-ring and it's leaking like a siv. Ordered a replacement and most likely this will solve most of my idling issues so I can tackle the fine tuning.

 

[playitlouddsm]

Until you get that idle down to a normal rpm, you won't be able to set your fuel trims. The ltft low won't settle when the car is idleing at 2xxx and up. I'm sure the new biss and o-ring will help.

 

[grnchevyz]

That's what I thought...I'll fix the BISS and repost results...thanks!