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ECMlink GVR4 SD Tuning advice

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Alright! At op temp. Timing gun set to zero. Pin is Grounded. Car is Idling between 800-900 RPM. Showing 5* before TDC.

Air flow per rev is about .15 right now. If target is .25 then I should back out BISS a hair? Just going opposite of what I believe was mentioned above.

Here is a warm and fresh Idle log.

Edit: I only have a bicycle pump. Not really feeling the urge to put my efforts into hand pumping the system to 25+ PSI, LOL. So I may run her down to a local shop and datalog on the way. Just have them do the boost and vacuum test done along with the compression test to bring those numbers up to date.
Nice!! The log looks fantastic for moving forward.

I use airflowperrev barely as a sanity check, I've never chased a value there. You should do a WOT pull to at least 5500rpm to calibrate the fuel system, then we can smooth out the SD table. There's no reason to bother with SD airflow adjustments when the fuel system isn't calibrated. And a large component of airflowperrev is the airflow adjustments. :) I know the process seems like it should be get idle right, then cruise, then WOT. But it's actually kinda the opposite of that.
 
Okay, so I took the car out last night and took some logs. I noticed though that my boost would climb to 20-21 pounds and fall to about 10 pounds. Pretty sure my IC couplers were not tightened enough. So I went through and tightened the piss out of all the clamps. I'm about to take the car back out and see if I it is fixed. Ill attach my second log from last night.

Edit: still ramping up to 20 ish and falling to 10psi. Heading to harbor freight to look at baby air compressors.

Glad to see another gvr4 out and about

GVR4s rule! I'm happy to be here and own a small piece of history. These cars are highly slept on, DSMs included since we got screwed on EVOs 1 through 6/7.

I’m excited for you man. Gonna live vicariously through you.

Thanks man! I'm excited I finally get to participate here.
 

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Is the turbine housing wategate modified? What plumbing are you using in your boost gauge line?
Are you 2.5 exhaust from o2 housing back?
As far as I know and saw it’s factory WG. There is a cheap and or home made manual boost controller installed by a previous owner. There is a 2.5 in exhaust all the way back with a 2.5in inlet and outlet high flow catalytic converter. ETS* FMIC kit. Boost gauge line in T’d into the FPR. I read in a few places it was acceptable but not what I would prefer I think.
 
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As far as I know and saw it’s factory WG. There is a cheap and or home made manual boost controller installed by a previous owner. There is a 2.5 in exhaust all the way back with a 2.5in inlet and outlet high flow catalytic converter. EST FMIC kit. Boost gauge line in T’d into the FPR. I read in a few places it was acceptable but not what I would prefer I think.
Is there any nylon in that line? What I'm getting at is make sure you're actually running the boost the gauge reads. You're not using the electronic boost controller?
 
Is there any nylon in that line? What I'm getting at is make sure you're actually running the boost the gauge reads. You're not using the electronic boost controller?
No EBC. No nylon. I used vacuum line from the parts store. I have vibrant line to replace the rubber for silicone.

I could remove the manual controller under the hood and just run factory WG till I pick up an electronic one.
 
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Rubber is fine. Manual is fine. I am curious what kind of controller. They're not all the same. Running wg pressure only or turn boost down and slowly increase would be good tests. Is it overshooting and settling or falling?
 
Uncheck 'disable airflow smoothing w/sd operation' on the Misc tab.
Will do!
Rubber is fine. Manual is fine. I am curious what kind of controller. They're not all the same. Running wg pressure only or turn boost down and slowly increase would be good tests. Is it overshooting and settling or falling?
I see some markings there. Possibly old ETS.

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Rubber is fine. Manual is fine. I am curious what kind of controller. They're not all the same. Running wg pressure only or turn boost down and slowly increase would be good tests. Is it overshooting and settling or falling?
It looks like is overshoots 20psi by a hair. Then steady falls to 10 and chills there. Also, I’m using a Turbosmart mechanical gauge. Can one small vac line bleed off 10psi?

Just got back from harbor freight and Lowe’s with some goodies

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Found a leak at the blowoff valve at the mating surface. I smeared the gasket in RTV. Letting it set for 24 hours before I mess with pressurizing the system again.
 
Also: I thought we weren’t supposed to use the airflow smoothing with SD. Am I misunderstanding?

I thought I was when setting up SD. I think the video I watched from Scott Laird on YT had it in the instructions. I definitely do t understand here.

I use it to quell out odd spikes in AFRatioEst.

--

That MBC mount is amazing. :rocks:
Simply checking that box will smooth those out? So it’s an overall smoothing tool?

I wish I could claim that brilliant piece of fabrication as my own! :p

Here’s my handy work on a prototype. Lol

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Nice!

Another option if you want:
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This thread has been great. Giving me a head start. Hoping to make the switch to SD in the next few months.
 

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I thought I was when setting up SD. I think the video I watched from Scott Laird on YT had it in the instructions. I definitely do t understand here.
Dmertz has recommended to do so with SD before and he created ECMLink. Scott knows his shit, so I'd heed his advice, but I'll take Dave's word on this one. Plus, it works, so..

Simply checking that box will smooth those out? So it’s an overall smoothing tool?
It will smooth out AFRatioest, which is the tool used to calibrate fuel and airflow.
 
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So the BOV is leaking as well. Fun! So I get to source another for now. I have a forge unit but, it’s high pitched and I don’t like that. Lol it may be a lil while before I can provide a clean WOT to 5500k.

I think my cheapest option would be a crushed 2g diverter yeah? Aside from putting the forge back on. It was absolutely smothered in RTV when I got the car.

So since the flange could be f**ked. Another option is I can pick up a long enough belt sander and flatten that flange on the IC pipe myself.

The do it right option. Lopping this flange off and going with a Tial.
 
Simply checking that box will smooth those out? So it’s an overall smoothing tool?

I wish I could claim that brilliant piece of fabrication as my own! :p

Here’s my handy work on a prototype. Lol

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Is there a risk of being blinded by the sun reflecting off the top?
 
So the BOV is leaking as well. Fun! So I get to source another for now. I have a forge unit but, it’s high pitched and I don’t like that. Lol it may be a lil while before I can provide a clean WOT to 5500k.

I think my cheapest option would be a crushed 2g diverter yeah? Aside from putting the forge back on. It was absolutely smothered in RTV when I got the car.

So since the flange could be f**ked. Another option is I can pick up a long enough belt sander and flatten that flange on the IC pipe myself.

The do it right option. Lopping this flange off and going with a Tial.
They're joking with you, but the 2g bov is plastic garbage. The 1g unit is my fav ever, you can modify it to handle infinite boost [not crushing, not a fan of that] and it'll behave like stock. Heck, they're used on the R35 GTRs. Talk about standing the test of time.

Buy this for a gasket, I bought a couple off them at the shootout this year as I'm a fan of this type of gasket. You could alternatively go to just about any hardware store and cut your own out of this as I've done for many many years if you're up for doing the cutting.
 
Don’t try to crush a 2G BOV. Not if you ever want to actually use it.


Crush a 1G bov.


If you decide ol’ crackeddsm ain’t shit and crush a 2g bov anyway, take a video.
My B, 1g is what I want! I’m sure that would have sorted itself out after noticing they are all 1Gs if any were listed at the moment. Lol

Is there a risk of being blinded by the sun reflecting off the top?
At the moment, probably. Did it cross my mind? Once. LOL. It’s kinda matte ish looking, sort of and not glossy at the moment. I do plan to scuff it down to prep for welding. I had intentions for making a topper for it and wrapping that with vinyl or leather. Mostly just playing around. I haven’t fabricated anything in a really really long time..

They're joking with you, but the 2g bov is plastic garbage. The 1g unit is my fav ever, you can modify it to handle infinite boost [not crushing, not a fan of that] and it'll behave like stock. Heck, they're used on the R35 GTRs. Talk about standing the test of time.

Buy this for a gasket, I bought a couple off them at the shootout this year as I'm a fan of this type of gasket. You could alternatively go to just about any hardware store and cut your own out of this as I've done for many many years if you're up for doing the cutting.
This, this is what I want!! Thank you

In my mind i considered I could use Delrin or some kind of plastic. The OEM gasket here is not doing the job.

I’m gonna go look for a “1g” BOV LOL. Then look up mods! The last I read about the crushed OEM units the consensus was “F**k yeah” cheap and strong! this was like 15-20 years ago
 
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