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2G FP Green/Red/ UHF57S

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Tyler Davis

5+ Year Contributor
137
36
Feb 18, 2019
Kenosha, Wisconsin
Hey, I was just wondering if anyone has tried the newer FP turbo with the 57s wheels? Just wondering how big the difference between the regular Green/Red and this one? I’m looking for 400 maybe 500whp on 93 and just wanting to know spool numbers and such and I didn’t think the regular green was capable of that but they claim the 57s one is a 540whp turbo. Obviously I know 500 on 93 is a tough task but any feedback is appreciated! Thanks!
 
They literally released the DSM 57S turbos publicly today...so I'm going to go out on a limb and say "no".


The compressor's ability to generate a cool, usable air charge is more-crucial to making power on poor-quality fuel than whatever freshy-fresh turbine tech is available. If you want any chance at getting near 500whp on pump gas you'll need the Red.
 
They literally released the DSM 57S turbos publicly today...so I'm going to go out on a limb and say "no".


The compressor's ability to generate a cool, usable air charge is more-crucial to making power on poor-quality fuel than whatever freshy-fresh turbine tech is available. If you want any chance at getting near 500whp on pump gas you'll need the Red.
Oh that’s my bad, I just happened to look at the website cause my seals on my turbo are on their way out, but thank you for the info!
 
If there's no shaft movement, the seals will be "on their way out" on your replacement turbo in a short period of time as well. Turbocharger sealing rings don't just decide to stop working one day- there's almost always an underlying cause. The only time it's ever the fault of the turbo itself is if shaft movement is present, and in many cases the shaft movement can be the result of another issue as well (like contamination).

Common reasons for turbos with no shaft movement to leak oil are an undersized or restricted drain, excessive crankcase pressure, or too much turbine backpressure that overheats and eventually takes the spring tension out of the turbine sealing ring, causing it to collapse in the groove. Any of these issues will show up even quicker on a replacement turbo, especially one that is larger than what you're using now.
 
I’ll have to check it out when I pull everything off, I just bought the car a month or so ago and have been working out some other dumb stuff left by the previous owner, I was planning on replacing the turbo regardless just cause it’s a crappy eBay 16g and I don’t like it. Thank you again
 
Common reasons for turbos with no shaft movement to leak oil are an undersized or restricted drain, excessive crankcase pressure, or too much turbine backpressure that overheats and eventually takes the spring tension out of the turbine sealing ring, causing it to collapse in the groove. Any of these issues will show up even quicker on a replacement turbo, especially one that is larger than what you're using now.
Just so I’m educated. When there’s too much crankcase pressure, it will back up the turbo drain. Is that correct?
 
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