Forward facing filter "Important Info"

[TJCTalon]

Okay you have all that money into your car and your going off of the stock oil pressure gauge? Id like to see it on a accurate after market gauge.

Theres no way that tiny pin hole can bypass enough oil pressure to not cause a spike to 75+ WOT. Im not buying this one bit.

Also have you driven the car since you tacked the hole shut?? Id like to know if this changed anything on your STOCK oil pressure gauge.

 

[Blindsey]

Ran a forward facing on my DD 6 bolt with a BB T67. Never had a single issue with oil pressure.

Trolly trolly troll!

 

[keltalon]

Okay you have all that money into your car and your going off of the stock oil pressure gauge? Id like to see it on a accurate after market gauge.

Theres no way that tiny pin hole can bypass enough oil pressure to not cause a spike to 75+ WOT. Im not buying this one bit.

Also have you driven the car since you tacked the hole shut?? Id like to know if this changed anything on your STOCK oil pressure gauge.

Lol. Its fixed bro! I didn't make this post to be bought I made it out of kindness and to be helpful there is nothing to gain or lose for me but yeah Guage reads the way it should, couldn't in be happier in fact I have modified two housing for a couple members here on the forum at no charge to them other than shipping it to me. We all are happy now! !

Ran a forward facing on my DD 6 bolt with a BB T67. Never had a single issue with oil pressure.

Trolly trolly troll!

That's what its all about run what makes you happy

 

[Calan]

...but for break in purpose I ran the fram

I run cheap advance auto filters on a break in.

So, when oil filtering is most critical and there are more contaminants in the oil than at any other time (during break-in)... you guys are running the cheapest filters you can find?

I want the best filter I can get my hands on, especially during break-in... but maybe that is just me.

 

[keltalon]

So, when oil filtering is most critical and there are more contaminants in the oil than at any other time (during break-in)... you guys are running the cheapest filters you can find?

I want the best filter I can get my hands on, especially during break-in... but maybe that is just me.

Lol! Yep it makes me happy!
Integra 320, 000 miles
Acura tl type s 240, 000 miles
Nissan frontier 4.0 v6 223, 000 miles
Nissan 720 pickup 444000 miles

All still running strong! And the filter if choice fram yep I have been happy for a long time!!

 

[TJCTalon]

You never did answer my question.

Did tacking this hole shut improve the stock oil pressure reading that you are going off of?

 

[1qkfwd]

Lol! Yep it makes me happy!
Integra 320, 000 miles
Acura tl type s 240, 000 miles
Nissan frontier 4.0 v6 223, 000 miles
Nissan 720 pickup 444000 miles

All still running strong! And the filter if choice fram yep I have been happy for a long time!!

And your comparing all N/A cars to a boosted car

 

[Calan]

LAnd the filter if choice fram yep I have been happy for a long time!!

Well like you said... " run what makes you happy".

 

[keltalon]

And your comparing all N/A cars to a boosted car

Well my wrx was happy as well as the supercharged integra. The eclipse hasn't complained much either

 

[Boostdriven]

I think any information that is posted in this site could be useful to someone at one point or another. There is no reason to be picking on OP for the information he is sharing.

This may be a little off the subject but I want to share a little story about a problem I had like 10 years ago when I just started to build DSMs. After I installed supra tt fuel pump and aeromotive fpr I couldn't get my fuel pressure to drop any lower then 43 psi no matter how much I loosened the screw on top of the fpr. I thought, well I'm at 43 psi and that's where it needs to be so I'm good to go. With vacuum line on the fuel pressure would drop few psi and I as step on the throttle it would go back to 43 psi, so that was normal. What wasn't normal was the fact that my fuel pressure didn't rise above 43 psi till about 10 psi of boost. I couldn't figure out what the problem was, I talked to friends that knew allot more then me, I called few speed shops and no one had any answers. So after looking things over and over I figured out why my fuel pressure wouldn't rise at 1:1 ratio. In the process of trying to drop the fuel pressure I unscrewed the top screw to much taking off any preload on the spring inside the fpr, so it would take 10+ psi to actually over power the fuel pressure and start raising it. It was after few weeks of dealing with this that I figured it out but that still didn't fix the problem of why I couldn't drop the pressure lower then 43 psi but since it was where it needed to be I left it alone.

It wasn't until few years later after I installed a secondary pump when I figured out why I couldn't lower the pressure. With the secondary pump I couldn't drop the pressure below 50 psi this time. On a 2Gs the tank is kind of divided in to two sections because of the drive line. Inside the tank on the fuel pump side where the return fuel line comes in is a little contraption (don't know what its called) but what it does it creates a siphon effect that pulls the fuel out from the opposite side if the tank. Well that contraption has a very small hole in it and with 2 fuel pumps it was over ran therefore holding the minimum pressure at 50 psi. What I did was take a drill bit that was slightly bigger then that hole and drilled it out and that took care of the problem, I was able to drop my fuel pressure down to like 30 psi. The fix was easy but trying to figure out what the problem was a problem of its own now if someone had the same problem like I did and shared it online it would have made my life allot easier back then.

So now if I ever get a front facing filter housing and it has that little hole, you can bet your ass I'll be welding it shut

 

[keltalon]

You never did answer my question.

Did tacking this hole shut improve the stock oil pressure reading that you are going off of?

That's what I have been posting since I started the thread. It improved took me several days to figure out what the issue was. Maybe some ff filter housing came with no hole but mine did and I Plugged it

 

[boost97gst]

This turned in to a pile on kel thread after ffwd guy posted. Funny how things happen like that. Way i see it: if it worked for you and youre sharing the info then THANK YOU not FU(K you . Keltalon has been nothing but friendly and very informative in all the posts i have read. And answers questions nicely, not with a snarky comment attached.

Thanks for the info. Im most likely either deleting my oil cooler or going ffofh when i reconfigure my hot parts so this info has been noted. If i need to, i will plug the hole myself.

Just my 2 cents, lay off the guy hes not trying to hurt anyone with this hes trying to help

 

[Boostdriven]

You never did answer my question.

Did tacking this hole shut improve the stock oil pressure reading that you are going off of?

He did, please refer to post #29 and #30

 

[TJCTalon]

The gauge works like it should was never an answere if your using the stock gauge!! You cant even try to explain an oil pressure issue if that's all your going off of. Thats a joke.

from the video the gauge never moved. Reving out to 6000 would raise the stock oil pressure gauge no matter what oil pressure issue someone has, including the tiniest pin prick hole that has no capability of dumping enough pressure to cause that issue.

No I appreciate your info, Im going to be running a FF housing on my build, and I will be tacking the hole shut. Not that I believe one second it would cause any issues, just the fact that the factory turbo models don't have it so I don't need it.

 

[keltalon]

No I appreciate your info, Im going to be running a FF housing on my build, and I will be tacking the hole shut. Not that I believe one second it would cause any issues, just the fact that the factory turbo models don't have it so I don't need it.

This is how I knew there was an issue. Before the engine build stock gauge was in the range mitsubishi meant for it to be within the minimum and maximum range according to the stock gauge indicators, also before the engine build I was not running the ff filter housing. after the engine build the stock gauge sat below mitsubishi range I plugged the hole now the gauge sits again in the range mitsubishi wants it all using thefactory gauge as my reference. IMO that little pin hole bleeds to much oil boring:

 

[ceedawg]

hey thanks a lot kels,just picked this baby up from my Aunt last night Great Job!

Relief Hole is welded shut now to put it back on the motor and drop this badboy in!

 

[keltalon]

hey thanks a lot kels,just picked this baby up from my Aunt last night Great Job!

Relief Hole is welded shut now to put it back on the motor and drop this badboy in!

Cee You are more than welcome

 

[keltalon]

I finally got an oil pressure guage and will be installing it this weekend but until then here is a video of the oil that is getting to my head and lifter after modifying the forward facing filter housing I wasn't getting this pressure up top before I will pull actual pressure number when the gauge is installed. Now I am comfortable with getting on the car

<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ZQYGqAWvhMU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[keltalon]

After fixing my issue with the forward facing filter I was able to finally get to the dyno and not worry about oiling issues check out the results here!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dyno-talk/469698-finally-broke-cyclone-dyno-record.html

 

[dot45]

I have one of these housings on my car. Since installing (once car is fully up to temp) I only see 3-5 psi @950rpm. before the install I did not have my aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed. I have not welded up the hole yet, planning on pulling the housing off this weekend and doing that. I will post with updated numbers. I am running 15w40 in the car, and have 155k miles (I know the engine is well worn.) I also still have my balance shafts installed.

 

[4gfun]

I see as little as 6 psi Front Facing Oil housing at idle with an aftermarket Oil Pressure Gauge on my GVR4. It is a Nordskog digital pressure gauge with a remote sender. I am running 15w-50. Not sure how accurate it is.

 

[boost97gst]

I have one of these housings on my car. Since installing (once car is fully up to temp) I only see 3-5 psi @950rpm. before the install I did not have my aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed. I have not welded up the hole yet, planning on pulling the housing off this weekend and doing that. I will post with updated numbers. I am running 15w40 in the car, and have 155k miles (I know the engine is well worn.) I also still have my balance shafts installed.

If you had a BSE pressure might be a bit higher. That should be low enough to trip the dummy light? Is the oil light coming on? I thought it was 5-7psi but thats not proven by anyone to my knowledge.

I see as little as 6 psi Front Facing Oil housing at idle with an aftermarket Oil Pressure Gauge on my GVR4. It is a Nordskog digital pressure gauge with a remote sender. I am running 15w-50. Not sure how accurate it is.

I own a Glowshit electronic OP gauge so im heavily biased against their accuracy. I think you have to pay good money and have a perfect engine ground and rock solid voltage to the sender and gauge for it to be even half way accurate. My gauge reads 0 sometimes when its hot. Dummy switch tested and working so i know its not that low. This happens with 15/40(what i used to run) and now with 5/40 t6(great oil btw). Id get a mechanical gauge on it even if it was ran with a temporary setup just to see what it REALLY is at idle. Any X/50 weight should be way higher at hot idle. Like 20+psi

 

[4gfun]

I own a Glowshit electronic OP gauge so im heavily biased against their accuracy. I think you have to pay good money and have a perfect engine ground and rock solid voltage to the sender and gauge for it to be even half way accurate. My gauge reads 0 sometimes when its hot. Dummy switch tested and working so i know its not that low. This happens with 15/40(what i used to run) and now with 5/40 t6(great oil btw). Id get a mechanical gauge on it even if it was ran with a temporary setup just to see what it REALLY is at idle. Any X/50 weight should be way higher at hot idle. Like 20+psi

Lol, the Nordskog stuff is not cheap by any means. It does start off higher at idle but after hours of brutal rush hour driving the pressure does get surprisingly low. Like you, I am not completely convinced of it's accuracy either. I think I am going to go with 5/40 t6 as well BTW.

 

[keltalon]

I have one of these housings on my car. I have not welded up the hole yet, planning on pulling the housing off this weekend and doing that.

That's would not be a bad idea

 

[SaulHudson]

I finally got an oil pressure guage and will be installing it this weekend but until then here is a video of the oil that is getting to my head and lifter after modifying the forward facing filter housing I wasn't getting this pressure up top before I will pull actual pressure number when the gauge is installed. Now I am comfortable with getting on the car

<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ZQYGqAWvhMU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

How does your idle head oil pressure have to do with a pressure relief hole? The relief hole bleeds the oil back to the pan correct, so welded shut the oil would go through the filter. This has no effect on your head.

This thread is absurd. While that hole may relate to your WOT pressure it has nothing to do with your head.

Have you ever thought the reason why your stock gauge reads different with it tacked is because of the location of it? It could just effect the reading of the cheap sending unit. We can never know because you don't log with an actual psi gauge.

Did you delete balance shafts? Do you have squirters?