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Forward Facing Oil Filter Housing [Merged 10-8]

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I find myself in need of a forward facing oil filter housing, which also has oil cooler capability. I have called the usual distributors but have had no luck.

Is there anyone on here who has one, knows how to set one up, or knows where to get one? I'd really appreciate it as it's the last part keeping me from tearing up the track here at famous Indianapolis Raceway Park when they open next month!!! :)

Thanks in advance!
~Eric Razer
 
I'M in the same boat, I've got a frontal oil housing, but it has only one hole...soo I'm thinking a sandwich adapter is my only way out...big_d

From what I have seen, the addition of the sandwich adapter plate will cause the oil filter to run into the car's frame. Nobody has confirmed this as far as I know, it just looks that way. I too wanted to run this setup, but instead I found a good deal on a cooler and housing and made my own lines and now I love it. It works great so far and I recommend doing it the right way the first time. :thumb:
 
It fits but if you don't HAVE to do it, don't.

75606d1187055061-holset-turbos-part-2-img_0782.jpg
 
i just used a B&M external oil cooler kit. all i had to get was some 90 degree brass fittings and mounted eveything.

this is on a 92 6 bolt engine in my 99 gsx

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I like how you also did the oil filter relocation at the same time. I eventually wanted to do that. Where did you get your kit and how much? I have heard mixed reviews about the permacool kit.
 
i bought the B&M external oil cooler kit off ebay brand new. I got it for 25.00 not bad it came with everything i needed.

I have not had a problem with the kist so far. no leaks or anything. B&M is a well know company that has been around for awhile. alot of muscle cars use them. just do a search it should not cost too much.
 
OFHB, I can get you in touch with a japan connect that I have. I got mine like a week or so after the paypal went through. The part number for the EVO III 7 bolt OFHB is MD191710. Just let me know... oh yeah, I only paid 128 us dollars shipped!

KJ
 
Slightly off topic, but hopefully someone can help me. In the pictures in the 1st and 14th posts, there is a bolt on the very right hand side, is this blocking a possible source for oil?

I'm switching from a DBB turbo to a standard bearing turbo and I now need the oil source to come from the filter housing. I currently have my oil pressure gauge in the bottom port, can I use the one at the far right for oil for the turbo? What threads are each of the ports? I think the bottom is 1/4" NPT but I'm not positive.

Thanks,
Andrew
 
I too have the forward facing oil filter housing ( jnz ) and I wish I had a way to hook up and external oil to air cooler to it. I cant even hook up the oil dummy light neither which I want that too, I was going to figure out how to tap some kind of bos fitting or something onto it, but I dont want to take it off the engine again.

Oh and OP, make sure you port the relief valve to whatever oil housing you get, to keep that pressure down on your new motor, in case you have really high pressure like a lot of ppl.
 
Got a question about my forward facing filter housing on my six bolt swap. My question is unlike the 7 bolt housing that i did have, this housing only has a hole for one sensor. THe prblem is that there was two sensors on the 7 bolt on. you have md133273, which is the oil pressure gauge sending unit? and you have md138993 which is oil pressure switch. My first question is which one do i use? The one looks like a little sensore that you plug into the back the other just looks like a metal resevoir or something? Right now i have the sensore screwed in. I had to go by a T so i could use the sensor and still use the my turbo oil feed line.
My next questions is what does what? I take it that the one sensore is for the oil pressure and the other is for the oil level?
 
now im not 100% on this but you can use the same hole for both but have to use a T fitting. i have done this on my old chevy truck when i put diffrent gauges in it but idk if it will work in a dsm
 
I drilled a hole and threaded it to 1/8 which is the size of the fittings.

Here is a picture to help you out.
 

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I just bought a 1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD. I got the oil changed and they said that the oil filter housing was leaking oil. And I researched the topic and found out it is probably the oil cooler bolt that came loose and is leaking.

I ordered a forward facing oil filter bracket off of JNZ Tuning. I know this is the same OEM part that came off of the Mighty Max. I also ordered the gasket they sell for the bracket, Oil filter housing gasket- 6 bolt : JNZ Tuning

What I'm wanting to know is, do I just unbolt the oil bracket that is on the car now, and then put that gasket on and simply bolt the forward facing bracket on? It looks like there are only 4 bolts to do...I'm not sure though.

I couldn't find anything about the install so if someone would help me out, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
 
One of the bolts is hidden under the lower engine cover. You might have to remove the cover (PITA) or cut a hole in the cover to get to the bolt.

Tomas
 
Thanks for the quick reply guys. I noticed the radiator leaking along the top yesterday, so I ordered a new aluminum radiator, upper and lower hoses, and also bought a new thermostat and thermostat gasket. So I assume that I can do everything at the same time, since that oil cooler has to come out anyways.

One question I had though...what is the torque spec on those 4 bolts for the oil filter housing? Also, what do I do with the bolt from the oil cooler? Do I just leave it out?

One other thing I forgot. What is the bronze plug on the backside for? Forward facing oil filter housing- 6 bolt : JNZ Tuning

Will something be plugged in there, or will it just remained plugged off? I am not modding this engine anytime soon, just leaving it stock for a while.
 
Thanks. Do you know how to flush the cooling system by any chance? I was thinking I just take out the thermostat, put the thermostat housing back on then open the drain plug on the block and radiator then flush everything with a garden hose with the engine running. Is that correct? I want to flush everything since I'm replacing the radiator.
 
Uh. I wouldn't run the motor without coolant. Drain it. Flush it with a hose. Refill it, run it. Drain it again. Repeat until the water comes out clear. Then fill it with coolant and run it without the rad cap on to flush the bubbles. Top it up and call it a day.
 
So when I drain it, should I take the thermostat out in order to flush it? Also when I'm flushing it, it will flush the block as well right?

When I run the motor with water, how long should I run it for?

And can you tell me where the drain plug on the block is at?
 
So when I drain it, should I take the thermostat out in order to flush it? Also when I'm flushing it, it will flush the block as well right?

When I run the motor with water, how long should I run it for?

And can you tell me where the drain plug on the block is at?

1. No. You won't need to take the upper thermostat housing off to flush it.

2. I'd run it until the fans kick on and turn off to make sure it gets everywhere. It won't hurt to run with straight water.

3. You aren't looking for a drain plug on the block. You'll drain it all using the drain plug on the radiator. You can also fully remove the radiator if you'd like to clean it and straighten fins, but this isn't necessary. Just drain as much as you can from the radiator, fill up with water, run, drain, repeat artago said. It'll probably take about 3-5 times of filling/draining for it to come out clear.
 
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