First log.. Wont stay running

[RocCitySlayer]

This is the first log I took. Its only like 10-15 seconds long because the car wont idle by itself. If there is any thing anybody can pull out of this log that could make this happen please help

P.s I had to keep pressing the throttle to keep the car running
it goes from rich to lean back and fourth but when i let off the pedal completly it dies out

 

[Calan]

That looks pretty good actually; idle RPMs are steady, front O2 is cycling, running in closed loop, etc.. You need to zero the MAFComp sliders as Brian mentioned (two or three times and start working on your MAF calibration. Dropping those first 3 or 4 sliders alone should get your low fuel trims back inline.

I still don't know why there is no idle switch signal showing up, unless Link just doesn't display it for a 2G with simulated idle switch selected.

Looks like you may have something going on with your charging system, due to some pretty steep voltage drops. The noise on your knock sensor is also a bit weird, but that could be just about anything and is nothing to worry about right now.

Also, there really isn't a need to be free-revving it to 5k RPMs until you start getting airflow dialed in.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Looks pretty good actually. You need to zero the MAFComp sliders as Brian mentioned (two or three times and start working on your MAF calibration. Dropping those first 3 or 4 sliders alone should get your low fuel trims back inline.

I still don't know why there is no idle switch signal showing up, unless Link just doesn't display it for a 2G with simulated idle switch selected.

Looks like you may have something going on with your charging system, due to some pretty steep voltage drops. The noise on your knock sensor is also a bit weird, but that could be just about anything and is nothing to worry about right now.

Also, there really isn't a need to be free-revving it to 5k RPMs until you start getting airflow dialed in.

When I start the car it doest want to catch idle untill I rev it a few times. And with the 5k rev I just did it just to hear the exhaust real quick haha. I'm just confuzed about this damn car. Any chance things can get straightened out if I go get it tuned?

 

[Calan]

Any chance things can get straightened out if I go get it tuned?

Of course...that's the whole point unless you have mechanical issues.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Of course...that's the whole point unless you have mechanical issues.

I dont think i have mechanical problems but im not 100% sure, Iv replace alot of things. The only thing that I can see is a problem is the altenator sqwiels really loud unless I rev it to about 2300 rpms for about 10 seconds then it goes away and sometimes it comes and goes. I just changed the belts today so I know its not the belts

 

[snowborder714]

Try unchecking the "simulate idle switch" box and see what happens. You shouldn't need it unless you're running a 1g TPS sensor anyway.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Try unchecking the "simulate idle switch" box and see what happens. You shouldn't need it unless you're running a 1g TPS sensor anyway.

Ok ill try it when i get home. And im not sure what TPS sensor it is

 

[snowborder714]

Pull the plug and count the pins.
3 pins - 1g
4 pins - 2g

 

[Calan]

I dont think i have mechanical problems but im not 100% sure, Iv replace alot of things.

But did you:

1. Properly adjust the throttle cable
2. Check and adjust the throttle blade stop
3. Properly adjust the BISS
4. Do a THOROUGH boost/vac leak test
5. Check base timing

It takes a only very small leak or mis-adjustment anywhere around the TB to wreak havoc on the idle airflow.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Is it possible to download a base tune to work off of?

 

[snowborder714]

Zero everything out - base tune achieved.

If you're looking for a base tune that will offer proper AFR's and adjusted timings, then no. This will be different for each car/setup and can't really be carried over. You need to have the car setup properly and ready to tune, then get idle dialed in and work from there.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Zero everything out - base tune achieved.

If you're looking for a base tune that will offer proper AFR's and adjusted timings, then no. This will be different for each car/setup and can't really be carried over. You need to have the car setup properly and ready to tune, then get idle dialed in and work from there.

The only thing pretty much that I can't do is get the car to idle after start up. Now it starts right up hits about 1700 and slowly dies out

 

[snowborder714]

Boost leak test.
Test ISC.
Try adjusting BISS screw.
Verify base timing with timing light.
Make sure injector settings are correct in link.
Verify base fuel pressure is correct.
Make sure plug wires are swapped.
Check spark plugs.


Start with that list.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

Boost leak test.
Test ISC.
Try adjusting BISS screw.
Verify base timing with timing light.
Make sure injector settings are correct in link.
Verify base fuel pressure is correct.
Make sure plug wires are swapped.
Check spark plugs.


Start with that list.

plugs and wires brand new, tested isc it tested fine, injectors are dialed in, fuel pressure is 44psi, havent checked timing yet, iv adjusted the biss and it didnt seem to change anything... i just made another log just now after playing around for a few minutes to get it to idle by itself

 

[Calan]

iv adjusted the biss and it didnt seem to change anything...

Which is normal and leads me to believe that you didn't adjust it properly.

You can't just go cranking on it. You need to either ground the diagnostic pin (physically or via ECMLink) and then adjust it for target RPM, or leave it un-grounded and adjust until ISCPosition in Link reads around 34.

The same goes for everything else on DSMs in particular... there are specific procedures for a reason.

If you know that already and did it properly, then... nevermind.

 

[snowborder714]

That log is not useful as the car isn't up to operating temp yet.

I'm still not 100% convinced that your front o2 sensor is fully functional as it seems to have erratic readings. But it can see a full voltage range, which is good.

Have you still not zeroed out your MAF Comp sliders, or did you redo them all and have them happen to fall back to pretty much what they used to be?

Your ISCPosition in that last log is around 75. This needs to be at 30 during idle (fully warmed up). Get the car up to temp and slowly make adjustments to the BISS screw. If it's not changing anything in your idle, then you have an issue with it (possibly a leaking BISS o-ring, but that would've been found during a boost leak test).

Are your plug wires swapped? You didn't touch on that one.



I've attached a settings file. Open it up and click the "Copy all to ECU" button in the bottom left corner of one of the tabs.

Before you start the car after applying the above settings, follow this guide and accept the values it suggests.
v3tpsadj [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[Calan]

I'm still not 100% convinced that your front o2 sensor is fully functional as it seems to have erratic readings. But it can see a full voltage range, which is good.

Agreed. Looks like an intermittent wiring issue or a sensor on it's way out.

Have you still not zeroed out your MAF Comp sliders, or did you redo them all and have them happen to fall back to pretty much what they used to be?

Either way, they're off. He's idling at around 70hz and AFR looks to be about 15% rich, although the O2 issue makes that difficult to be sure of. (Not) coincidentally, MAFComp in that area is about 7-10% rich.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

So i just got back from the store where i got everything i needed for a boost leak tester. I tried to fill the intake with air and it wasnt holding any air at all Then come to find out, the short route intake pipe coming from the intcooler was completly detached.. What are the chances that this could be my problem with the way its running?

 

[snowborder714]

This big.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Calan]

So i just got back from the store where i got everything i needed for a boost leak tester. I tried to fill the intake with air and it wasnt holding any air at all Then come to find out, the short route intake pipe coming from the intcooler was completly detached.. What are the chances that this could be my problem with the way its running?

It will have an enormous impact.

That is why we say that a BLT is the number-one-absolute-first-most-important-do-it-right thing there is when it comes to knocking out issues.

Honestly, if you had of been more clear about not having done a BLT yet, I wouldn't have even looked at the first log until it was done. In the future, I would suggest when two or three people ask about or suggest a BLT right out of the box, make sure to be clear on the answer and results.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

So is that pretty big then?

 

[snowborder714]

If that question is serious...











Fix it and continue to check. Make sure you test it with more pressure than you plan to run. If you want to run 20 psi, check it with 25 psi. Spray soapy water all over to help you "see" the leaks (it'll bubble).

 

[RocCitySlayer]

It will have an enormous impact.

That is why we say that a BLT is the number-one-absolute-first-most-important-do-it-right thing there is when it comes to knocking out issues.

Honestly, if you had of been more clear about not having done a BLT yet, I wouldn't have even looked at the first log until it was done. In the future, I would suggest when two or three people ask about or suggest a BLT right out of the box, make sure to be clear on the answer and results.

yea i know i was thinking of something completly different. my bad. I appricate your guys help more then i can say. Im going to reattach the piping but that probably wont happen untill later or tomarrow but when i do ill post another log

 

[Calan]

Fix it and continue to check. Make sure you test it with more pressure than you plan to run. If you want to run 20 psi, check it with 25 psi. Spray soapy water all over to help you "see" the leaks (it'll bubble).

...from the turbo inlet all the way to the injector seals in the head. And it should hold above 10psi for at least 30 seconds or so, minimum.

BTW - There's other things to consider with a BLT, such as getting the motor rotated to ensure the valves are closed, and making sure it is warmed up. I suggest you do some reading and do it PROPERLY once that IC coupler is fixed.

 

[RocCitySlayer]

If that question is serious...











Fix it and continue to check. Make sure you test it with more pressure than you plan to run. If you want to run 20 psi, check it with 25 psi. Spray soapy water all over to help you "see" the leaks (it'll bubble).

yea i want to hopefully "successfully" run 25psi. so i should check with about 30 then right?

...from the turbo inlet all the way to the injector seals in the head. And it should hold above 10psi for at least 30 seconds or so, minimum.

BTW - There's other things to consider with a BLT, such as getting the motor rotated to ensure the valves are closed, and making sure it is warmed up. I suggest you do some reading and do it PROPERLY once that IC coupler is fixed.

Yea i deffinitly will. Latly i have been reading alot about it and watching a few vids on it

 

[snowborder714]

Yup. I usually go 5 over to account for any random spikes I may encounter, and to know that I can still turn it up some more if I want.