The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

First log.. Wont stay running

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

RocCitySlayer

10+ Year Contributor
792
7
Nov 20, 2011
Rochester, New York
This is the first log I took. Its only like 10-15 seconds long because the car wont idle by itself.:ohdamn: If there is any thing anybody can pull out of this log that could make this happen please help

P.s I had to keep pressing the throttle to keep the car running
it goes from rich to lean back and fourth but when i let off the pedal completly it dies out:cry:
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Im going to reattach the piping but that probably wont happen untill later or tomarrow but when i do ill post another log

For my part, don't expect any help on that new log unless you preface that post with "I fixed all the boost leaks and it now holds over 10psi for more than 30 seconds."...or you have an acceptable explanation for why it won't....and some ring leakage would be the only thing that comes to mind. :)

(Brian may be a bored and a bit more lenient though) :D
 
Yup. I usually go 5 over to account for any random spikes I may encounter, and to know that I can still turn it up some more if I want.

Ok ill make sure to do that:thumb:

For my part, don't expect any help on that new log unless you preface that post with "I fixed all the boost leaks and it now holds over 10psi for more than 30 seconds."...or you have a acceptable explanation for why it won't....and some ring leakage would be the only thing that comes to mind. :)

(Brian may be a bored and a bit more lenient though) :D

Thats cool. I was going to wait till i made sure there are no leaks before i do the next log:D
 
Cool.

Not trying to sound like a d*ck, but it's just a waste of everyone's time (yours and ours) if you are trying to dial in a tune and there are mechanical issues. You absolutely MUST have all boost and exhaust leaks dealt with, and the mechanical adjustments such as base timing, BISS, plug gap, throttle cable, idle switch, etc. must be done correctly. Only then does it make sense to start working on the ECU side of things.
 
Just so you know, finding and fixing boost leaks is an iterative process and it takes a while. Pressurized air always takes the path of least resistance...so as you fix one leak another will show up. You just have to keep tracking the bastards down and fixing them one at a time until it holds solid. You'll probably get to the point that you think you'll never get it to hold pressure, but just be patient and keep after it.
 
Just so you know, finding and fixing boost leaks is an iterative process and it takes a while. Pressurized air always takes the path of least resistance...so as you fix one leak another will show up. You just have to keep tracking the bastards down and fixing them one at a time until it holds solid. You'll probably get to the point that you think you'll never get it to hold pressure, but just be patient and keep after it.

Ok cool thanks for that advise
 
So I got that IC pipe leak fixed. And did another boost leak test. I found a leak at the throttlebody and a very small one on the BOV I'm going to get a new TB gasket now and I will fix them tommarowLOL
 
Heres my newest log I just took (5mins ago) its cold outside but the engine is not cold. Its idling higher now then it did earlier..
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Your ISCPosition is too high. You need to adjust the BISS slowly until you get the value down to 30. Adjust it a bit, then let it relearn and settle. Then repeat. This will bring your idle down.

Do this.
v3tpsadj [ECMTuning - wiki]

Watch video #8 and do the same steps it shows you. This will get your AirflowPerRef in check (currently too low) and bring your CombinedFT down to around 0% (currently way too high).
ECMTuning, Inc.

Get your wideband wired into the ECU and logged in link.

Uncheck the Random Misfire box on the DTC tab.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Your ISCPosition is too high. You need to adjust the BISS slowly until you get the value down to 30. Adjust it a bit, then let it relearn and settle. Then repeat. This will bring your idle down.

Do this.
v3tpsadj [ECMTuning - wiki]

Watch video #8 and do the same steps it shows you. This will get your AirflowPerRef in check (currently too low) and bring your CombinedFT down to around 0% (currently way too high).
ECMTuning, Inc.

Get your wideband wired into the ECU and logged in link.

Uncheck the Random Misfire box on the DTC tab.

Yea i have to adjust the biss because i took it out today to change the oring. And i have watched those vids I watch them 5 times a day just to glue it to my brain:)..

Im still having a problem getting my ISCposition set right. :banghead:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top