fiav block off questions [Merged 11-8]

[96whgsx]

I did a boost leak test recently and I found a very good sized leak probably on the TB shaft seals. So, I'm just going to replace them and while the TB is off, I was deciding whether I should block off the FIAV and blocking off both the FIAV and ISC. I know that some people have had trouble with cold starts on cold days but the weather here doesn't go below 50 F so, I'm not too worried about that. Also, the vfaq for removal/bypass of the FIAV isn't working, so I have yet to read an write-up/article on this subject. I do know that you can JB weld one of the ports or buy a blockoff plates and re-route the coolant lines to bypass the throttle body. Thanks in advance for the replies.

 

[mnetwork]

I had my throttle cable a hair too tight and you couldn't even see it. Make sure you check that.

 

[bmoha2]

I started taking everything apart yesterday. I turned it into a longer project because I fixed a lot of small annoying problems at the same time. I took off the FIAV and noticed that the small FIAV rubber gasket which had been possibly glued in place from the factory popped up and I had a hard time getting it to lay back down in it's grooves. In fact, I got annoyed with it and siliconed it down being careful not to get silicon and where where it was supposed to be. I looped the coolant lines back on themselves and then went to bolt the FIAV assembly back on the throttle body and found that that little spring clip right in the center of it was preventing it from being bolted back together. It's held in pace by a single philips head screw so I figured it has to go and got out my trusty dusty screwdriver. It was a no go. Seized tight in place. It also had threads for a straight bladed screwdriver so I tried that. Still a no go. So I cut the damn bolt off with a Dremel tool. I only had the single gasket so I left that one siliconed in place on the throttle body, slapped the FIAV blockoff plate on top of it and bolted the FIAV assembly back on. Seems to work. I was a little annoyed that all the bolts holding things together on the throttle body are all philips head bolts. I think I'm going to change them all out with SS allen key bolts. I don't think there is enough room to use standard hex head bolts. In the future, after I buy DSMLink, I'm going to buy the other full FIAV and ISC blockoff plate and delete the entire FIAV assembly from the Talon.

 

[JrCRXHF]

I am having problems getting my idle down with my EMS so i think i am just going to block off the FIAC first and if that does not work i will block all of it off.

The car will still get ran in the winter and still has A/C so i wanted to keep the iac motor to try and help with idle issues.

 

[2GeNTSi]

I went this route too after not being able to figure out why my rebuilt 1G TB was having extremely high idle problems. I was running a 2G TB on my 6bolt while my 1G TB was being rebuilt and it ran fine for the most part. I did have some issues with erratic idle after re-starting the car when it was already at operating temp and during warm weather but I think that's the ECT.

Anywho Steve at throttlebodys.com recommended to me that I should try the FIAV bypass plate after coming to the conclusion that nothing else was causing the high idle. When I was disassembling the 1G TB I did find a random rectangular piece of metal which I removed because it was in the way of the plate. I re-used the FIAV gasket since it was brand new, and put RTV on the plate-to-TB side. I slapped it on and looped the coolant lines on the TB together, started it up, and it idled fine.

I did notice that without the FIAV, that it starts right at whatever your warm idle is at as opposed to the high idle and gradually falling as it warms up. However, first startups in the morning are challenging; sometimes it'll start easily and other times I have to give it a little gas to keep it from stalling. Just this morning I had to try starting it three times because it wouldn't hold idle. One other thing I noticed (not sure if it's related to the bypass) is that during low throttle % in 1st or 2nd the car bucks which I never experienced before. I'm thinking it might be the TPS (it's adjusted to .9k ohms but it was turned ALL the way counter-clockwise).

 

[Artago]

One other thing I noticed (not sure if it's related to the bypass) is that during low throttle % in 1st or 2nd the car bucks which I never experienced before. I'm thinking it might be the TPS (it's adjusted to .9k ohms but it was turned ALL the way counter-clockwise).

I got this problem too. I check in DSMlink and my TPS is off by a bit. Also, my idle ISC position and learned idle is off so I have to adjust my TPS and BISS. Just my 2 cents.

Tom

 

[2GeNTSi]

Just the past weekend I tore my 1G TB apart again, but I slapped on my 2G FIAV with it and put it back together. I don't seem to have that weird low throttle bucking deal, so that is fixed.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

I am getting ready to swap my throttle bodies for FIAV blockoff. Is there some type of coupler or part to loop the coolent lines together? Or is everything I need there when I pull it off to loop them? I need to know what part I need so I can go buy it before the swap tomorrow.

Thanks..

 

[1992awdlaser]

Either buy a fitting that will fit in both lines that has a hole through it. Or loop the lines, if needed buy longer line. Or do like I did and have the lines cut off and welded shut.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Loop the lines from the water pipe to the water neck, otherwise there is no passage for coolant to circulate to relieve pressure until the engine warms up.

 

[turboglenn]

Either loop a piece of high pressure line, or weld them shut... Do NOT... and i repeat DO NOT use a short piece of hose with a bolt or anything in it to make little "plug offs'. I tried this several times and every few months the one that comes from the back of the crossover tube and faces upwards for some reason would blow open and leave me on the side of the road until it was cool enough to "ghetto-up" enough to make it home... I put a single hose looping both lines together adn it's held for 2 years

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

A single hose looks like the best idea, probably get by with one foot piece and trim as needed.

I ended up uaing a "watts a-290 barb splicer", from home depot, works perfectly that and one additional hose clamp of course.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

I just swapped throttle body, now I am running with blocked FIAV and no ISC. Wondering if anyone has any tips and just how has the car been running since?

Mine runs ok, right now it idles slower when cold then it seems to creep up higher is I drive.

WHen you set the idle in this circumstance, do I still need to ground out ECU and timing or just turn the screw?

 

[ekanddsm]

Just set the idle when its warmed up, and you shouldnt have a problem after that. If you do,(have a problem) do a blt.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

Hey! When I did the blockoff, when I was getting into pull out the throttle bodt, I saw that the coolant return line was CRIMPED BAD. Would that be the whole issue of messing up the idle right there? I went ahead and finished the swap because I was getting low on time and just wanted to get it over with.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

Here are some pics of the coolant in the intake from a bad/failed FIAV.

 

[mnetwork]

I have some new input on this... It is now winter and we've had a bunch of cold days here in NJ... I do have to say that the one very cold day I had to hold the gas for a little under a min to keep the motor running on startup. Other times it just starts and idles low and then idles higher after it has warmed up... Other than that it is fine in the cold and I still love having a cold throttle body.

 

[Weapon-X]

Loop the lines from the water pipe to the water neck, otherwise there is no passage for coolant to circulate to relieve pressure until the engine warms up.

Anybody care to chime in on how important it is to loop the lines instead of just blocking them off.

Mine are welded shut........................

I originally thought that welding them shut was a much better (permanent) way of doing things.

Now I'm thinking I might have fugged up.

Is it absolutely a must to have those lines joined for flow purposes?

What problems can arise if they are totally blocked?

I don't have the pipes on, so "undoing" what I did is a possibility, but I won't worry about it if it's not a big deal.

Thanks.

 

[turbosax2]

You should be fine. Coolant can still pass through the heater core and turbo until the thermostat opens. Also, one of the holes in the lower thermostat housing allows some water to flow straight from the engine to the main water pipe even when the thermostat is closed. I would install the pipes welded like you have now.

 

[Weapon-X]

Thanks turbosax2 for the quick reply.

Like I said, I welded them shut thinking that it was a better/permanent way of doing things.

I just want to make sure I didn't create a problem doing things the way I did.

If I created a blockage or restriction, I would much rather handle the issue now while things are apart, then deal with it once things are assembled.

Thanks again.

If there are any other opinions, please share.

 

[trinistylz2002]

This thread has been very helpful as I have purchased a FIAV bypass and an EGR blockoff. I thank you all for contributing.

My question is does anyone have a picture depicting the coolant lines that are being re-routed back into itself?

And also for my clarification to be sure I will remove and disgard the shorter FIAV coolant line and loop the longer one to where the shorter one was. Correct?

One more thing, adjusting the TPS means I can follow the steps in this site: I believe this site covers the information needed. TPS Adjustment correct?

I recently received my rebuilt TB from Steve and I'm having superior idle issues with my rpms going up to 3000K.

 

[mnetwork]

This thread has been very helpful as I have purchased a FIAV bypass and an EGR blockoff. I thank you all for contributing.

My question is does anyone have a picture depicting the coolant lines that are being re-routed back into itself?

And also for my clarification to be sure I will remove and disgard the shorter FIAV coolant line and loop the longer one to where the shorter one was. Correct?

One more thing, adjusting the TPS means I can follow the steps in this site: I believe this site covers the information needed. TPS Adjustment correct?

I recently received my rebuilt TB from Steve and I'm having superior idle issues with my rpms going up to 3000K.

Yup, just loop the longer one.

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

I had an idle issue (that turned out to be a non fiav/isc issue, damn injector seals) and killed my isc/fiav with a blockoff plate. No check engine light from it and I LOVE being able to set my own idle at a certain point (spiffy if you road race/autocross, makes rev matching easier). If you drive in winter you'll have to increase the idle a couple hundred rpms to make up for it being really cold outside.

 

[beyondspexj]

I recently received my rebuilt TB from Steve and I'm having superior idle issues with my rpms going up to 3000K.

mine went up to 3k as well. but just as someone posted a few post ago, i had my throttle cable just a hair too tight. loosened the 10mm bolts and gave the cable just a tad bit more slack. that solved my problem. now my next step is to get the fiav bypass.

 

[2GeNTSi]

I've been running the FIAV bypass for sometime now and I've been experiencing high idles again after the car reaches operating temp. It'll have a steady 2k when I let off the gas and idle at a light or in traffic (really annoying).

Hoping to fix this, I purchased the entire blockoff (FIAV and ISC) and put it in today expecting it to run fine, but I can't even get the car to hold idle by itself. The second I let off the gas it dies (and it's only about 50 degrees outside). I thought maybe if I opened up the BISS it would help, but unfortunately no.

I tested the ISC again and the ohms are all good, and I plugged in the harness with it out and the plunger does move in and out (although only about 1/4" if that, is that normal?). So I'm not sure what to do next besides just swap it back out for just the FIAV bypass because I can actually drive the car with that one on.

Also on a side note, I tested the TPS again and with it fully counter-clockwise it was sitting at about 1.1-1.3 kohms and I couldn't drop it any lower than that. I removed it and noticed fine metal shavings inside, so I cleaned it and adjusted it again. I was then able to get it down to 850 ohms and set it in place. Could this mean the TPS is bad?

Just to clarify this here, when I had just the FIAV bypass I had the TB coolant nipples looped together, this shouldn't matter whether or not they are left open since the port is blocked off by the bypass plate correct? I'm not sure after reading this thread because some were saying to leave them open as opposed to looping them. I'll leave them open since I'm going to put this back on for now.

Anywho I'm going to swap out the blockoff plate and put the bypass plate back on...so frustrating.

 

[bling5tatus]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/320799-my-solution-fiav.html#post151720501

I just did that to my tbody yesterday, it was fast and free... I should reassemble my car soon and I will let everyone know how it goes w/ the idle. For the record I have a bad ISC so it's unplugged. (I think this may be an issue because a bad ISC may be 50% "actuated" letting a constant amount of air past the throttle body.)