Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

[eric489]

All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.


I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Wow Defiant you got it perfectly! Thats exactly it!

 

[Jason97GS-T]

Auto or manual? Feel any vibration when this happens?

Manual and no vibration

It sounds like it could be you BOV

thanks that helps me a lot WTF
What is wrong with the BOV?
How can I fix it IF it is the BOV?

Here you go man, read over some of these pages I dug up for you.

"Car stumbles, makes noises when I let off the throttle, is there a fix?"

1000 AAQ - Common problems & fixes

Thanks for looking that up. Come to think of it that sound came after I put on The GReddy type-s BOV. I have an extra ebay BOV that I can switch out and see if that was the cause of the noise. I cant change it till tomorow as I am in Las Vegas and my car is in Washington.

 

[kenamond]

Sounds like a BOV to me, too.

When you let off the gas, that's when the BOV does its business. Check the vaccuum line between the BOV and intake manifold for leaks. If that checks out, test the BOV with a vaccuum tester to see what vaccuum causes it to open. If you have your MBC tee'd into the BOV line, consider fixing that and connecting the MBC to the j-pipe or compressor outlet of the turbo.

If the BOV isn't opening, you're probably hearing compressor surge. That's apparently not good for your turbo.

 

[mikelv]

Sounds like a BOV to me, too.

When you let off the gas, that's when the BOV does its business. Check the vaccuum line between the BOV and intake manifold for leaks. If that checks out, test the BOV with a vaccuum tester to see what vaccuum causes it to open. If you have your MBC tee'd into the BOV line, consider fixing that and connecting the MBC to the j-pipe or compressor outlet of the turbo.

If the BOV isn't opening, you're probably hearing compressor surge. That's apparently not good for your turbo.

+1

You see, on a turbocharged vehicle air volume is raised above ambient pressure. Engines that can create higher induction manifold pressures - above ambient - will have volumetric efficiencies greater than 100%. You see what happens is air is forced INTO the intake manifold, FROM the throttle body, BY the turbo.
When you let off the gas pedal and the throttle plate closes, the excess air that did not enter the engine has to go somewhere. It takes the path of least resistance which is back down your air charger pipes (intercooler pipes). Instead of the air going all the way back to the turbo and causing compressor surge, which will cause significant damage to your turbo; it vents to either the atmosphere, or back into the intake pipe via the compressor bypass valve (CBV), or better known as a blow-off valve (BOV). If that bypass valve is installed incorrectly or is somehow dysfunctional, it'll cause your symptoms every time.


Here are a few readings for you to check out in order to get some more information on the subject:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/298781-explaining-volumetric-efficiency.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/220909-1g-bov-101-mods.html

"What is a BOV?"

1000 AAQ - Terms

 

[Jason97GS-T]

Sounds like a BOV to me, too.

When you let off the gas, that's when the BOV does its business. Check the vaccuum line between the BOV and intake manifold for leaks. If that checks out, test the BOV with a vaccuum tester to see what vaccuum causes it to open. If you have your MBC tee'd into the BOV line, consider fixing that and connecting the MBC to the j-pipe or compressor outlet of the turbo.

If the BOV isn't opening, you're probably hearing compressor surge. That's apparently not good for your turbo.

The BOV is releasing.
I dont have a MBC on.

When you let off the gas pedal and the throttle plate closes, the excess air that did not enter the engine has to go somewhere. It takes the path of least resistance which is back down your air charger pipes (intercooler pipes). Instead of the air going all the way back to the turbo and causing compressor surge, which will cause significant damage to your turbo; it vents to either the atmosphere, or back into the intake pipe via the compressor bypass valve (CBV), or better known as a blow-off valve (BOV). If that bypass valve is installed incorrectly or is somehow dysfunctional, it’ll cause your symptoms every time.

So should I open up my BOV so more air can get out?

 

[mikelv]

The BOV is releasing.
I dont have a MBC on.



So should I open up my BOV so more air can get out?

Here is a quote from the readings I linked you to:



"Cleaning the BOV, replacing it or upgrading to a 1G unit should solve the problem. Owners of adjustable BOVs report that setting the BOV too tightly will cause this same problem, so a quick adjustment may be in order."


Someone else needs to back me up here, because I've never worked with a Greddy unit, but can you add washers or make manual adjustments such as the TurboXS?

If so, you need to look at an adjustment because it is quite possible the BOV is set for a boost pressure much higher than you are running. On the TurboXS Type-H, there are washers you add or take away to adjust spring tension based upon boost pressure.

 

[Jason97GS-T]

Someone else needs to back me up here, because I've never worked with a Greddy unit, but can you add washers or make manual adjustments such as the TurboXS?

If so, you need to look at an adjustment because it is quite possible the BOV is set for a boost pressure much higher than you are running. On the TurboXS Type-H, there are washers you add or take away to adjust spring tension based upon boost pressure.

I did read that and thanks for all of that reading. I kinda knew a little of that, but now I know more.

Yes the GReddy can be adjusted. I bought the unit form someone, so maybe they adjusted it for a different setting.

I cant work on the car till tomorow, but when I do adjust it I will update and hopefully it is good news.

Thanks for all of your help with this

 

[mikelv]

I did read that and thanks for all of that reading. I kinda knew a little of that, but now I know more.

Yes the GReddy can be adjusted. I bought the unit form someone, so maybe they adjusted it for a different setting.

I cant work on the car till tomorow, but when I do adjust it I will update and hopefully it is good news.

Thanks for all of your help with this

Anytime brother, let us know.

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

It turns out there were metal shavings in the gas tank from god knows what so i need a new block and internals

 

[Dsmj89]

So your motor is gone ? Won't start anymore cause of debris in the gas tank ?

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

When i had time to bring it in there were the shavings. it still drives and everything i just thought that a new engine might be a wise choice. If somebody else has a suggestion dont hesitate to say it.

 

[Dsmj89]

If getting the shavings and all debris out of your tank and fuel lines and the motor keeps on running after that then no need for a new motor. Start with the easy stuff first before you go out looking for a new motor. Crawl before you walk.

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Its just that i dont have a clue where they would be coming from? thats what concerns me

 

[Dsmj89]

You checked all your belts right ? How about any possible worn motor mounts ? Worn suspension bushings in the front ? Balance shaft belt tore up ? It's what i can think of for now for a running motor.

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Ive checked all of those other than the motor mounts.

 

[Dsmj89]

Check it out and see their condition. I remember on my previous 2g my motor mounts looked like bubble gum, they were gone and on their way out, made a little squeak sound when pulling out of driveways and steep surfaces but not all the time or during idle/driving. Check it out and report back.

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Thats almost exactly what mine sounds like. Ill keep you posted

 

[knochgoon24]

I don't see how shavings can get from in your motor to the gas tank. If you want to check for metal shavings, check the oil pan.

 

[NExStreetRacer]

1. Hey I was just wondering if anyone could tell me this sound I will explain it and get a video of it eventually. When the car idles you cant here the sound but when you're driving and you press the gas it sounds like a scraping/grinding noise. But if you let off the gas the sound will disappear it doesn't matter how fast or what gear I am in when I press the gas the sound is back. You can't hear the sound when in neutral and giving gas (revving it). But I know something is not right with the engine including a low idol its 1990 laser non-turbo 5 speed with 80 K orginal miles.

My solution: about the sound I think it might be coming from the timing belt or pulley areas but I want to fix that problem and not fix something that doesn't need fixing but my car just reached 80 k mile so I am thinking about replacing the timing belt and timing belt teensier with a non hydraulic one from extremepsi.com.

2. And when I go like 70 MPH the steering wheel vibrates really badly is that normal? Or is there some way to reduce that? It doesn't seem like the car vibrates but the wheel goes crazy.

My solution: new ball joints & wheel studs, Rotors resurfaced with new brakes? and a Suspension alignment, wheel bearings and tie rod ends

3. AND a shifting problem it's hard to put into 1st gear 2nd gear and will grind in mostly 1st sometimes reverse. Second grinds randomly it is not enjoyable to shift gears.

My solution: Could that be a slave or master cylinder problem or I could just change the tyranny fluid? Or try bleeding the salve?

So if anyone can give me thoughts on my solutions or add new solution or have any suggestions on doing some needed maintenance to the car let me know what I should be doing to this car to get it running and sounding and driving as perfect as it can get. It will be greatly appreciated thanks!

 

[force_feed]

about the noise your hearing, check your turbo for shaft play by wiggling the shaft side to side. The noise your hearing could be your turbo.

The steering wheel vibrating could be the cause of numerous things, I'd start with a simple tire balance then go from there. Bring it to an alignment shop and have them check it. Warped rotors could cause this, but you would most notice the shaking while braking.

syncros are a major problem with 1G DSM's. Alot of DSMers have grinding issues with 1st and/or 2nd

 

[EclipseRacing99]

2. if it does this while driving get the tires balanced. if it while braking rotors are warped.

 

[NExStreetRacer]

I plan on doing normal things like: OEM Thermostat, Oil filter + oil, Air filter, Fuel filter and a radiator flush. And time the car with new timing belt and all. And I also get bad gas mileage about 15 MPG I don’t know why.

about the noise your hearing, check your turbo for shaft play by wiggling the shaft side to side. The noise your hearing could be your turbo.

The steering wheel vibrating could be the cause of numerous things, I'd start with a simple tire balance then go from there. Bring it to an alignment shop and have them check it. Warped rotors could cause this, but you would most notice the shaking while braking.

syncros are a major problem with 1G DSM's. Alot of DSMers have grinding issues with 1st and/or 2nd

My car is a NON TURBO!!!! well the car I am talking about anyways its N/A

The major thing I am concerned about is the scraping/grinding sound coming from the engines timing belt area I need to fix it. So I need opinions on what that sound could be again this car is a non turbo 5 speed. and the crapy gas mileage.

 

[knochgoon24]

1. Check to make sure non of the belts are rubbing against the timing belt cover. It might not get loud enough until you get on the gas. Also check your harmonic balancer.

2. Check you wheel bearings, ball joints, and tie rod ends. Replace as nesscessary and get an alignment.

 

[NExStreetRacer]

Ok thanks I need allot more opinions on the sound dont be affraid to post an idea! and I am geting 15 MPG is that normal for a Non Turbo 5 speed?

 

[knochgoon24]

Ok thanks I need allot more opinions on the sound dont be affraid to post an idea! and I am geting 15 MPG is that normal for a Non Turbo 5 speed?

Not at all. I get better than that in my Tsi AWD that is an auto. I usually get about 20mpg driving "normal", 22 like a granny, and 16 like an @sshole .

Try a compression test. Also, you may have a vacuum leak from a cracked old hose (even on a N/T).