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Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

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eric489

Probationary Member
7
0
Jul 14, 2004
Carson City, Nevada
All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.



I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.
 
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i have searched and searched on this topic and am not getting any clear answers. just the other day my valve train started clicking. and then it stopped after about 3 minutes or so. but then it comes back. it repeatdly does this and to me it seems to get louder and louder every day. what the F**K is going on with this thing. motor only has 89,142 on it. what do you guys suggest to what what it would be. and/or how to fix it.
 
I just replaced my lifters a few weeks ago. It eliminated my tick. 3g lifters is the way to go. It only takes about an hour (from taking off the valve cover to putting it back on) It also helps to have a lifter puller to compress the valve spring to get the rocker arm out and then pull the lifter out. It cost like $90 and I got my lifters from partsdinosaur.com You can get the 3gs from anywhere. Hope your tick is gone soon. There is a big difference in oil flow for the new lifters.
 
yes lifter tick. if you want to save money you can take them out and clean them.and make sure you have the hole on the side of the lifter pointing towards the center of your head.
 
Alright a few questions for you guys here...

I have a 1995 Eagle Talon AWD and its doing some very odd things. I just swapped in a new T25 because the old one blew on me.

When accelerating in first or second in low rpms (or just being engaged in low rpms) this really loud tick/knock noise come from the engine area but goes away once you give the car some power. When the car is in neutral and rev it nothing happens. Its only while the car is in gear and moving?

Another thing I noticed is that when you are cruising above 2k rpms and push in the clutch the rpms fall to 0 and the engine dies, but occasionally it catches at like 100 and then goes back up to idle. If the car is in neutral and I push in the clutch then let it out nothing happens. It stays at idle?

I have also noticed with this new turbo that the turbo stop pulling at 4k (my old t25 kept going till around 5k then started producing less boost) this one seems as if it almost just shuts off? The car also feels to have less pull then it used to?

Finally last thing I noticed is that when cruising if you let off the gas a loud chattering noise comes from what seems to be underneath the passengers feet? But the minute you press the gas or disengage the clutch the chattering noise stops?

Any and all help is highly appreciated :)
 
whoo slow down - did all of these problems start when you changed the t25, or was that only one of many problems to start?

Did you disconnect the battery to change the turbo? sometimes the ECU has to re-learn the new settings of the engine and may stall until it does - about 100 miles? low boost - maybe your actuator is weak or needs a couple of washers under the bracket to preload it.
 
whoo slow down - did all of these problems start when you changed the t25, or was that only one of many problems to start?

Did you disconnect the battery to change the turbo? sometimes the ECU has to re-learn the new settings of the engine and may stall until it does - about 100 miles? low boost - maybe your actuator is weak or needs a couple of washers under the bracket to preload it.
the first three started after the turbo swap... the fourth has been happening ever since the new clutch install... i also reset the ecu but alas it still has that problem. Also should not that I did not disconnect the bettery during the whole turbo swap (dumb move I know LOL)

Did you prime the turbo after your reinstall? If u didn't take the intake pipe off and make sure the turbo still spins freely.
I did prime the turbo. And it spins freely. I did switch the oil feed out for a stainless steel line though

Have you done a boost leak test yet?
Not yet I plan to
 
Ok first let me describe my situation. I had a 92 tsi awd that was totaled from a lady pulling out in front of me. I found a clean 91 shell that was in perfect condition and the person only wanted $500 for. I purchased that and took my original motor from my 92 and dropped it in my new shell. While the engine was out we replaced everything, rod and main bearings with clevite bearings, full oem gasket kit, oil pump, water pump. Basically everything but the rods and pistons. Both balance shafts were removed by the previous owner with the stubby OEM shaft. One thing that we didnt do was the lifters. They are the OEM 1g lifters with the small hole. Everything was fine for about 1000 miles. I decided then that it was time to see how the power felt. The car is an automatic so I mashed the gas in second gear and it shifted fine to 3rd. I was happy, until I heard the slight tapping. I thought it was the lifters so I purchased the lifter tool and OEM 3g lifters. Had them in and out in about an hour. I thought that was the end of the tapping. Wrong, the idle is the best ive ever heard in any DSM that Ive owned. But when I give it gas and right around 2k RPMS it makes a tapping that stays there until about 3k RPMS and then quiets down and goes away. While cruising at highway speeds You can hear it with the windows down on the drivers side. Im really confused with this problem and do not know what to do. Ive heard anything from rod knock to something with the timing components. Sorry for the long post but I just wanted to give you guys the full story. Ive searched everywhere and could not find a right answer for my situation.
 
sounds like the beginnings of a spun rod bearing, i would drop the pan since its pretty straight forward and check for flakes in the bottom of the pan, then check for play in the rods. You shouldn't have any up and down play, a little side to side is normal with mileage.
 
Recently my car has developed a ticking noise when I am at wot and above like 15psi of boost. I can only hear is for a very short period of time then my exhaust noise takes over, and I can no longer hear it. Also I wanted to add that it doesn't make this noise if I free rev the engine, just under load and boost. Any idea what it could be?
 
Ok so i found out today that i have a Exhaust leak, and a bad injector, I thought that i was hearing a lifter tick but its only when the car is cold or when im giving it gas to go for the first 1-3k rpms.. Would a lifter tick be all the time not just sometimes? could the vacum leak cause a tick that sounds like its coming from the engine ?

Thanks
 
Lifter tick often only happens when it's cold or in low rpms yes. Probably what you've got there, and it's probably setting off your knock sensor, which will pull timing and make your car slower.

It doesn't work for everyone, but when I seafoamed my car through the intake manifold it completely got rid of my lifter tick, it's def. worth a shot.
 
yea i did the seafoam, was just worried that it could possibly be a valve knock that i hear.

But if im just idling i dont hear the tick and thought lifters you could hear at idle?

Thanks


p.s

Anyone have a set of 450cc injectors they wouldnt mind parting with if so give me a PM


Thanks
 
next time you change the oil in that car, get the oil filter with a check valve in it. its going to help against so much oil running out of the top end. Dont buy cheap fram, just spend the few extra dollars and get the good stuff. Most DSM's have lifter ticks, thats just how they are, my 90 has a mean tick sometimes. But that should help against lifter tick.
 
If there is no noise when you free rev the engine then it might be something to do with replacing your struts. Check around the wheel and see if there is any rubing, something maybe be loose and may be hitting unnecessary parts when under high load. Double check everything and make sure its all tight and not loose.
 
Alright so today me and my friend tinkered with my talon and found out the knock noise come between 1500 and 2500 rpms. It does it in gear and while in neutral. My friend said his car sounded the same when it was the valves. Also when cruising in those rpms the noise is very prominent. Will try to get a video clip soon but just wondering if that seems like the right assumption or are we pretty far off here?

I also called jack's and he said possibly rod knock or a rod bearing?

All help is appreciated :thumb:

P.S. Could this be part of the cause of my rpms rapidly dropping sometimes even causing the engine to die when I disengage the clutch?
 
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