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98TsiAWD

DSM Wiseman
2,861
8
May 19, 2002
94 3000GT VR-4, North Dakota
I personally am looking to do some weight reduction while retaining the quiet/smooth ride, and still having a spare so I can go on the highway without getting flatbedded home.

heres some of my ideas, just normal of course.

CF hood
Ditch all of my stereo and just get upgraded 6x9, 5.25, and 3.5's hooked to the factory amp/deck.
CF Hatch<<<Anyone make one for us?
CF Spoiler<<Anyone make it?
Dimple Drilled/Slotted Rotors


What else is there? I dont wanna tear out all the sound deadening or the spare tire.
 
Doing 91 race car build. Done a lot of stuff that has been done here.
Bumper supports,jm fab front one now,some aluminum strips here and there on the bumpers.
Ac gone but still have heater and ductiing inside. ABS gone,cruise gone. Stereo gone, back seats and passenger seats gone. Belts gone excepct for drivers. spare,jack,all stuff behind front doors gone.
sway bars gone. Megan downpipe only no catback or cat.
Still planning fair bit more. Race seat, maybe cf hood,sound deadener,not sure about heat shields or under hood heat shield. lighter wheels, jm fab gas tank,sheet metal intake.Got oddessy battery already.Windshield wipers gone already.
One horn gone.Drivers fan gone. get slimline later and maybe aluminum rad. Ps will be replaced with manual. So far keeping dash ,center console. Still so far have power locks and windows, heater,signal lights,headlights.
Will be adding in rollbar so can run to 10.0 or so.
Think thats pretty much it. Of course at some point its much easier to just raise power output.
My 99 trans am raceweight is like 4200 pounds. But with over 1000 hp potential not overly worried about the weight.
Some of the above makes sense for a race car. But not much for a street car. Even 500 pounds is only 5 tenths. And 50 hp can give that. So prettty simple to just go to an evo big 16 or 50 trim or add some cams and smim.
But for race car then makes more sense to strip it down and to make things easier to work on. My engine compartment is much simplified now.
 
I Want To Deduct Some Pounds Off My 2g I Was Going To Take Off The Power Steering But Dont Know How Or What To Do Dose Anybody Know How To Do This And Where I Can Find To Take Off My Abs ...
 
Thought I would post this link here as some people began talking about it in another thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...254282-how-gut-your-1g-doors-weight-loss.html

By cutting some more of the excess metal out I managed to remove another 5 lbs from each door for a total weight savings of 50lbs by gutting the doors. Of course I again mention that this is not a good mod to do without a roll cage and safety is severely hindered, also I would never suggest it on a daily driver.
 
Thought I would post this link here as some people began talking about it in another thread.

Thanks :thumb:

Nevermind, my car isn't a daily but I drive it ALOT!

On a side note where are you guys getting your cars weighed at? I see a lot about truck stations but is that free and you just pull up or what?

I've recently pulled all my AC and PS lines/brackets/misc things in the engine bay, cut out a bunch of stuff I don't think I need LOL, and pulled my front bumper support. Can't wait to see if the car handles any better, I'm sure it will since I noticed a difference after taking 60lbs of junk out of my trunk.
 
I removed all emissions, cruise, rear speakers and brackets, rear winshield pump, and holder. Any unecessary brackets, most factory deading material ill do more in the spring. Air conditer lines, condensor everything. All the crap i dont need.
 
On my 90tsi I have managed to reduce 103 lbs out of the car by removing

all a/c components including evap core minus wiring and fuse block
all P/s components and install of manual rack
all tar sound deadening from floor and under dash
removal of padding from carpet and underside of headliner
all shielding for exhuast system/ driveshaft/ gas tank
making my own jmf style bumper support.
removal of cruise control and install of non cruise throttle cable
cutting down of side engine mount to resemble 2g style motor mount
Removal of plastics in fenderwells that cover transmission, intercooler, and pulleys
removed dust shield for transmission bell housing
removed brackets for clutch line under air filter
removed air can
removed radiator fan for a/c system
removed carbon canister and all emissions lines from motor
removed solenoid pack from firewall near brake booster
Only using a small spacer for driver side halfshaft instead of hole a/c bracket


More weight reduction will consist of a small battery, mitsubishi gst wheels, possible carbon fiber hood , Aluminum driveshaft, lightened flywheel, slim fans and whatever else I can think of. I don't plan on going crazy with it I just wanted to eliminate the unneeded components and clutter. Even to me 104 lbs seemed a bit much for what I did but I weighed myself on the scale and it was right on. lets not forget that all the nuts and bolts from all the removed parts eventually begins to ad up as well.
 
Yep got a flywheel to and getting lightweight wheels, perhaps rotors, ill see what else as i do my cleaning and new projects to the car for 2010. Im keeping my sound system though.
 
dose anyone know how to remove the power steering off a 99 2g eclipse? i need to take off befor track day (importwars) thanks
 
The weight savings is nice, the hp savings is minimal. Two things really sold me on the PS delete, the first time I drove it, it was fantastic. Cars with power steering bug the hell out of me now. The other big issue, with that bracket gone, taking off the exhaust manifold is so easy.
 
dose anyone know how to remove the power steering off a 99 2g eclipse? i need to take off befor track day (importwars) thanks

Remove the p/s pump, belt, and all the lines including the one that runs in front of the radiator for cooling. Then with both hoses on the rack unhooked, turn your steering all the way left and right a couple times. This will get the excess fluid out of the rack, but leave enough in there for lubrication (if there is too much fluid, it will be VERY hard to turn). Then use a rubber hose and hook each end to the metal lines coming out of the rack.
 
That's my next plan but lexan windows are expensive. I am going to put one in my cf hatch and possible the two triangle shaped windows. Perhaps the sun roof as well?

do you have a web site for lexan for dsm, or do you have too have them custom made????

let me add some thing too this thread

1 Gallon:
gas 6.2lbs
water 7lbs
oil 8.4lbs

1quart:
gas 1.55lbs
water 1.75lbs
oil 2.10lbs

13.2 gallons of gas= 81.84lbs
 
do you have a web site for lexan for dsm, or do you have too have them custom made????

let me add some thing too this thread

1 Gallon:
gas 6.2lbs
water 7lbs
oil 8.4lbs

1quart:
gas 1.55lbs
water 1.75lbs
oil 2.10lbs

13.2 gallons of gas= 81.84lbs
1G owners can get FAL glass, which is supposed to be more scratch resistant than lexan, but not nearly as expensive as Speedglass, and it's molded:

Flexite Molded Windows

I have the rear glass for the hatch, but haven't installed it yet. It says it doesn't need rivets, that it can be glued on just like glass. We'll see.
 
1G owners can get FAL glass, which is supposed to be more scratch resistant than lexan, but not nearly as expensive as Speedglass, and it's molded:

Flexite Molded Windows

I have the rear glass for the hatch, but haven't installed it yet. It says it doesn't need rivets, that it can be glued on just like glass. We'll see.

How much was it, and where did you purchase it from Chris?

EDIT: JEGS does sell the rear window for 259.99 for 1g guys/gals.
 
How much was it, and where did you purchase it from Chris?

EDIT: JEGS does sell the rear window for 259.99 for 1g guys/gals.
Yeah, I think $250 was about the range I found when I was looking. Any shop that sells FAL fans should be able to get the glass. No place carries it in stock though, they'll have to order it. You just have to ask for it.
 
Everyones talking about trakc times and this and that. But for every 100lb' s gone equals the same as 25hp at the crank. Not alot but noticeable Hell my car has a total of 87lbs out of it and today the front and rear bumpers are gone. No use for them really and thats going to be a total of 154lbs. You notice a difference with a passenger. Well how about having it feel like your not even in the car when your by yourself?
 
Iam in weight saving threw winter..done most of the easy removing..ABS,AC,rear seats,rear speakers all the plastic things inside,fr/rear bumper support,both Air bags.
now looking for front speakers,AC box under dash,all ABS module,Air Bag module,drivers lighter seat drivers remove for strip, rear brace("between shocks") and maybe rear floor change for sheet metal.. wanna be 1250kgs..2760lbs.. hope so..

any pics of 2Gs with sheetmetaled floors???:sneaky:

But what is really on my mind...aerodynamics.. could be more importen than save 100lbs..Only reason why Iam saving weight is cus of my drivetrain.Paid lotta cash for my EVO3 gears:coy:
You know aerodynamic start a big point after like 60miles per hour then the lower aerodynamic resistance the better slip. Lets say you make 60MPH at 4/5sec and next 6/8sec you run with BIG aerodynamic resistance

So do anyone know some Tip in aerodynamics??
Okay wingless is first on my mind..
front lip could make something(less air under car)
what about rear difusor?like Joe Bucci

Venca
 
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