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DSM Weight Reduction [merged] diet weight loss strip light

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98TsiAWD

DSM Wiseman
2,861
8
May 19, 2002
94 3000GT VR-4, North Dakota
I personally am looking to do some weight reduction while retaining the quiet/smooth ride, and still having a spare so I can go on the highway without getting flatbedded home.

heres some of my ideas, just normal of course.

CF hood
Ditch all of my stereo and just get upgraded 6x9, 5.25, and 3.5's hooked to the factory amp/deck.
CF Hatch<<<Anyone make one for us?
CF Spoiler<<Anyone make it?
Dimple Drilled/Slotted Rotors


What else is there? I dont wanna tear out all the sound deadening or the spare tire.
 
I browsed through these posts and just wanted to mention a light weight battery, I have a 15lb bat from braile and its about 15 lbs lighter then the stock battery. So next timeyou need a new battery just buy the light weight one and save a few pounds. PS the braile battery was $150.00 but its a quality sealed battery so it can be mounted anywhere. Mines going in the trunk/hatch/spare tire area.
 
ive read a tonne of this thread and what about ehxuast? i havent heard anyone mention that one....
and how about YOURSELF!!! if you weigh more than 250lbs go to the gym and LOSE SOME WEIGHT LOL or if thats 250 of muscle just stop working out LOL
 
It's not actually that simple, if your a muscle head and want to get slim, cardio is what you need. Run, run run your ass off.



Exhaust is heavy though, I have been thinking about getting an exhaust made thats aluminum from the DP back. I duno what my Megan SS 3" exhaust weighs but I know factory exhaust systems with there CAT's etc. tend to be around the 35lb+ area. It is low to the ground but still there.
 
I browsed through these posts and just wanted to mention a light weight battery, I have a 15lb bat from braile and its about 15 lbs lighter then the stock battery. So next timeyou need a new battery just buy the light weight one and save a few pounds. PS the braile battery was $150.00 but its a quality sealed battery so it can be mounted anywhere. Mines going in the trunk/hatch/spare tire area.

Another thing to add to this is also battery location. the lower the better. A car handles better with a lower center of gravity as well as being balanced. Hence why a battery is generally mounted opposite of the driver in sports cars to counteract the off balance. I plan on mounting a mini battery/ tractor style battery on the subframe below the stock battery mount being as my emissions have been removed. I shouldn't have to modify the wiring much if at all to reach this spot.
 
Mines is down to 2800lbs with me sitting in it. I weigh 155lbs.2700lbs w/ driver is where Id like mines at, which is attainable but will cost some money... I can easily still remove another 100lbs, Im getting a lighter driveshaft made, and the lighter lock washer that removes the Vicious coupler ( I already have a welded diff) and Id like to get some nice lightweight recline-able racing seats, and maybe a Ebay Honda half a radiator ( Not sure how much wt that drops when full, but I like the room it opens up. ) Im also going to chop out the rear hump in the hatch, and sheet metal it flat because its annoying, but I just havent determined whether the gas tank needs that hump? And one more thing, Id like to ditch my cat back. I have a weird exhaust setup, 3in DP with 3in Electric cutout going into a 2.5 cat back with stock muffler thus when cutout is closed the car is stockish quiet. Well I want to ditch the stock muffler and 2.5 catback, thats got to be a good 50lbs right there, only problem is I still want to some how muffle the car at the end of the DP so that when I close the cutout it quiets down some. It have to be some kind of muffler that can connect at the end of the DP and still fit underneath which I hope isnt farfetched? Any ideas on that?

Theres a dsmer I once met that was in a front end collision and somehow he repaired it by chopping off the front half of the car where the radiator went and getting it all professionally tubed and it dropped 80lbs off his front end and was still very sturdy.

As far as the battery, I have a little Honda battery in the car, and its relocated to the passenger side rear of the car. For that corner balancing argument its better back there in the rear right. A Oddessy battery is even 10lbs lighter than the small honda batteries but I couldn't fork up the cost for one.Really for those trying to be light as possible just get a mid 90s 2door mirage and do the awd-4g63 swap and then gut it...
 
Anyone see STM's "Tin Can" project? Makes me want to tear my dash apart even more LOL. I've also got a few questions:



1. I removed my windshield wipers and wiper motor, but how do you get at the wiper motor arms behind the firewall?



2. Why is losing unsprung weight so beneficial? I don't understand how it could make more of a difference than sprung weight? (not including rotating weight, I.E. Brakes, Calipers ect.)
 
Iam in weight saving threw winter..done most of the easy removing..ABS,AC,rear seats,rear speakers all the plastic things inside,fr/rear bumper support,both Air bags.
now looking for front speakers,AC box under dash,all ABS module,Air Bag module,drivers lighter seat drivers remove for strip, rear brace("between shocks") and maybe rear floor change for sheet metal.. wanna be 1250kgs..2760lbs.. hope so..

any pics of 2Gs with sheetmetaled floors???:sneaky:

But what is really on my mind...aerodynamics.. could be more importen than save 100lbs..Only reason why Iam saving weight is cus of my drivetrain.Paid lotta cash for my EVO3 gears:coy:
You know aerodynamic start a big point after like 60miles per hour then the lower aerodynamic resistance the better slip. Lets say you make 60MPH at 4/5sec and next 6/8sec you run with BIG aerodynamic resistance

So do anyone know some Tip in aerodynamics??
Okay wingless is first on my mind..
front lip could make something(less air under car)
what about rear difusor?like Joe Bucci

Venca

I'm bringing this back up, very interested in seeing a 2G gutted as I want to do this this year. Search a bit and couldn't find a clean 2G with the interior completely removed. Without spending on CF doors or CF driveshaft what kind of weight are we looking for?
 
I removed my windshield wipers and wiper motor, but how do you get at the wiper motor arms behind the firewall?
It's been a couple years since I removed mine, but I believe once you remove the wiper cowl, the wiper motors can be removed from there.
 
Great Thread!!! I learned a lot about how to lose weight. I tried looking everywhere but couldn't find the weight of a 1990 Eagle Talon TSI Turbo AWD? I've had people tell me 2700-4000lb range? So whats the real weight? Thanks
 
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Has anyone ever seen these carbon fiber doors? its supossably 1/5 of the orignal weight. 17lbs each. beats 85lbs each. ITS A 136lbs Weight reduction!
 

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I'm bringing this back up, very interested in seeing a 2G gutted as I want to do this this year. Search a bit and couldn't find a clean 2G with the interior completely removed. Without spending on CF doors or CF driveshaft what kind of weight are we looking for?


hey,
would like to be at 2870lbs/ 1300KG with me in car. I weight 188lbs so thats 2680lbs just car..and I think its not possible.without front end tube,with two seats etc... So finally will be happy to break 2870lbs just car...:sosad:Iam really affraid of broke Tcase and axles and checking all that stuff from US to Europe to Czech..delivery should cost an arm..:ohdamn:
was looking on wheels got heawy 3K GT VR4 22lbs without rubber and found lightest Kosei K1 TS in 17inch weight 6.7kgs..that like 14.7lbs.. one wheel under 200usd:thumb: Thtas almost 31lbs weight savings on rotary and unsprung mass...
K1-TS

Still didn´t touched the car threw winter..lotta snow hereeee:banghead:will start within month and post some pics
BTW that idea with sheetmetaled cargo likes my buddie and he already did it..check his pics

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Venca
 
Great Thread!!! I learned a lot about how to lose weight. I tried looking everywhere but couldn't find the weight of a 1990 Eagle Talon TSI Turbo AWD? I've had people tell me 2700-4000lb range? So whats the real weight? Thanks

my 91 is 3090 lbs without anyone in the car. No weight reduction to it...completely stock.
 
Great Thread!!! I learned a lot about how to lose weight. I tried looking everywhere but couldn't find the weight of a 1990 Eagle Talon TSI Turbo AWD? I've had people tell me 2700-4000lb range? So whats the real weight? Thanks

Partsweights - DsmWiki

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Has anyone ever seen these carbon fiber doors? its supossably 1/5 of the orignal weight. 17lbs each. beats 85lbs each. ITS A 136lbs Weight reduction!

I wonder if those would be safe in a crash? Also bet they cost an arm and a leg.

found lightest Kosei K1 TS in 17inch weight 6.7kgs..that like 14.7lbs.. one wheel under 200usd:thumb: Thtas almost 31lbs weight savings on rotary and unsprung mass...

Venca

I think that the FD rx7 wheels are lighter than that, and you can probably pick up a whole set with tires for around $400usd.
 
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Has anyone ever seen these carbon fiber doors? its supossably 1/5 of the orignal weight. 17lbs each. beats 85lbs each. ITS A 136lbs Weight reduction!

if only they were pre-drilled for the OEM sideskirts....
 

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Partsweights - DsmWiki



I wonder if those would be safe in a crash? Also bet they cost an arm and a leg.



I think that the FD rx7 wheels are lighter than that, and you can probably pick up a whole set with tires for around $400usd.

Def not going to be safe in a crash. Just like gutting you stock doors almost, no beams inside I believe with the CF.
 
Carbon fiber doors are definately a track only modification, as well as gutting your doors. Last I checked weren't those like 1200+ though? Awesome weight reduction but not worth that much to most people. I do believe Harry's glass makes fiberglass ones that are very light that cost less then half of what the carbon fiber ones do. But again, that's going to the extreme a bit :D
 
i would of thought it was just a matter of removing bolts, i imagine we had to take appart some other things to get to the entire setup.. im grr8 at taking shiet apart but i can never remember how to put it back together.. if i take it out and some day i want to put it back in im #### out of luck..

what about power steering? those extra reservoirs under the hood that make the bay look cluttered as hell..

does anyone have any ideas on how much stock rs wheels weigh? i had roush wheels last time i went to the track and i didnt think about how much heavier then my stockers they are.. thy must weigh like 30+..

The stockers are 30+ my bro runs a tireshop and he ordered some wheel and tire combo for street/roadracing the whole setup weighed like 15lbs so lets do some math 15 times 4= 60 and well worth it but u had to becareful not to hit a pothole they a forged and they will bend trust saw one the other day not pretty
 
Carbon fiber doors are definately a track only modification, as well as gutting your doors. Last I checked weren't those like 1200+ though? Awesome weight reduction but not worth that much to most people. I do believe Harry's glass makes fiberglass ones that are very light that cost less then half of what the carbon fiber ones do. But again, that's going to the extreme a bit :D

Yea hairys glass makes fiberglass doors, hood, hatch, and whole front ends. I actually spoke with them the other day about getting the doors. The only downside between them and somebody like GTfabrications is that Hairys doesn't have the marks where the handles or door hinges go. They are made more for if you going to use door fasteners so you can just take the whole door off and not open it like stock. GTfab has everything on their doors for if you want to use them as stock. They have the dimples where everything is supposed to bolt to and the area for the door handle is already cut out unlike Hairys. You have to cut into the fiberglass to make your door handle. Thats my understanding of what they said when i called. I talked to them for a while and them seem VERY knowledgeable. They have been around for a while. I wouldn't hesitate getting something from them. But if im going to spend the money on something like that then i dont want to have to do any fabrication other then drilling the holes for handles and such. Hairys is cheaper but you cant just drill the holes bolt it up and go.

Hairys glass:
Doors (pair): $680
Hatch: $260
Hood: $260

GTFabrications:
Hatch: $370
Hood: $380
 
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