Drag Week 2G DSM - 8 Second Street Car

[OH91awd]

not sure if it would interest you for your build but for some extra bling and better functionality i would recommend hitting up @antilag_200 for one of his billet dipsticks. amazing little piece that allows better venting for the trans and allows you to run the vent to a catch can to make it a little safer.

 

[MorrisonFab]

Neat! I have a question and a comment. Why are Shearer manifolds sold by Morrison now? What happened w/ Shearer? I've been hoping they'd fix their website for what seems like years now..... but I dunno what's going on.

I'll let @MorrisonFab give more info on this, but I believe Shearer sold Morrison the rights and jigs to his manifold designs and they are now the shop that builds them for this platform, and have since expanded upon those designs. Shearer is focusing on other platforms these days.

Yes, we got our official start as a business after taking over the DSM/Evo manifolds from Ron His knowledge and experience/documentation has been monumental for getting where we are today and we are continually updating/revising his and even our own designs to accommodate current turbo options, R&D, and fabrication tools/capabilities. He is more on the LS and intake/intercooler side of things now and innovating over there.

I think most of this has been answered now but I’ll reiterate. Morrison Fab bought shearers jugs to make his manifolds and they’ve since developed a lot of their own products. They have kept up and improved the quality that Shearer brought to DSM’s and they’re really easy to work with. It was a no brainer going to them for my downpipe.

We have been thrilled to have a small part in your build, Tony! Always meticulously thought out and executed.

 

[RWD4G63]

Wow. Just had to go through the whole thread. This is a seriously proper build you have going here. Absolutely love seeing stuff like this, especially the monster downpipe with a nice smooth flow path! Killer work dude, I'm looking forward to seeing more.

 

[Got Grip]

Yes, we got our official start as a business after taking over the DSM/Evo manifolds from Ron His knowledge and experience/documentation has been monumental for getting where we are today and we are continually updating/revising his and even our own designs to accommodate current turbo options, R&D, and fabrication tools/capabilities. He is more on the LS and intake/intercooler side of things now and innovating over there.



We have been thrilled to have a small part in your build, Tony! Always meticulously thought out and executed.

Thanks guys! You were a huge help!

Wow. Just had to go through the whole thread. This is a seriously proper build you have going here. Absolutely love seeing stuff like this, especially the monster downpipe with a nice smooth flow path! Killer work dude, I'm looking forward to seeing more.

Thanks for the kind words. I’m a big fan of doing things the right way. This is by no means the be all end all build on the car but I’m going all in on this mission.

 

[Got Grip]

I think I’ll post up all the plumbing next. New post coming soon.

 

[Got Grip]

Let’s go over some of the plumbing. This post will cover just a high-level look at several different things. Post up what you want to see more detail about and I’ll do my best to cover it.


First, I’ll start with intercooler piping. I have a 5” thick ETS intercooler with 3” lower piping and 3.5” upper. This has been on the car a while and I figured I’d reuse the whole setup for this build. That didn’t go to plan… haha. I ended up needing to weld an elbow on the end of the intercooler to clear my oil cooler (I believe I posted about that already? If not, I’ll have to make another post about my coolers). That elbow necessitated making a new lower intercooler pipe. Then when I put the automatic in, I discovered that my charge pipe that cleared the manual transmission hit the auto, so now its time for a new upper IC pipe as well. I made the upper and lower pipes myself. I’m not an expert welder but I can get by TIG welding. I purchased tubing from Extreme PSI then cut/fit and welded it all myself. Here’s the upper being made:

Next up is the downpipe and exhaust. I stated before that I purchased the downpipe from Morrison Fab. It came out amazing and saved me a ton of time. I already had a 4” aluminum exhaust from the back of the transfer case back so I just had to finish the last bit of the downpipe from Morrison Fab to fit with my exhaust. Here are some pics:

Then there’s all the AN lines on this car. There are A LOT. I used mostly black nylon hose and black fittings all from Extreme PSI. Here’s a list of what has AN lines and what size:

Oil Cooler -8 AN

Transmission Cooler -8 AN

All boost lines -4 AN

Turbo feed -4 AN

Turbo coolant lines -4 AN

Turbo Drain -10 AN

Ethanol tank to Bosch 044 pumps 2x -10 AN

044’s to rail Y to a single -8 AN

Secondary Rail Return -6 AN

In tank Walbro 450 to Rail -8 AN

Primary Rail return -6 AN

Coolant Hoses -16 AN

I think that covers it all, here are some pictures:

 

[bling5tatus]

I really like the black nylon hoses as opposed to stainless steel braided. Much cleaner look and doesn't chew up whatever it may be touching.

 

[Got Grip]

I really like the black nylon hoses as opposed to stainless steel braided. Much cleaner look and doesn't chew up whatever it may be touching.

I like the look too but I still use stainless when it’s close to the exhaust.

 

[miguelmcv]

I like the black as well, but I really hate to be using the special tool when it comes to remove them, otherwise you scrape the paint off and end up with a really nasty look.

The ss fittings fit better my needs, which I can use regular tools and not be worried about the paint.

I just don’t like the shiny look it gives when you open the hood, and the first thing you notes, is the ss hoses instead the engine bay/ valve cover and other details way more important then the lines.

 

[bling5tatus]

Oh you're referring to the fittings. I was talking about the black nylon hose vs. the stainless braided hose. They both have the same kind of thing on the inside the seals the pressure/fluid/air/vacuum/whatever..... but the exterior is what is different.

Didn't consider that stainless braided would be better by the exhaust though, that's a good tip.

 

[Got Grip]

I like the black as well, but I really hate to be using the special tool when it comes to remove them, otherwise you scrape the paint off and end up with a really nasty look.

The ss fittings fit better my needs, which I can use regular tools and not be worried about the paint.

I just don’t like the shiny look it gives when you open the hood, and the first thing you notes, is the ss hoses instead the engine bay/ valve cover and other details way more important then the lines.

I was referring to the hose itself but I stick with black aluminum fittings for all the main stuff for both weight and aesthetics. I keep a set of AN wrenches close by to keep the fittings looking good. I don't think it's any harder to use the AN wrenches than finding the correct size conventional wrench personally.

Oh you're referring to the fittings. I was talking about the black nylon hose vs. the stainless braided hose. They both have the same kind of thing on the inside the seals the pressure/fluid/air/vacuum/whatever..... but the exterior is what is different.

Didn't consider that stainless braided would be better by the exhaust though, that's a good tip.

I was referring to the hose like you were but some good points on the fittings were bring up in the post above.

 

[b00stedtalon2]

Tony, from the factory there's a 5/8" hose that goes from the lower water pipe to thermostat housing to act as a relief when the thermostat is closed. Do you think there's any rise in water pressure with having that gone or have you removed the thermostat?

 

[bling5tatus]

Also, in regards to the aluminum AN wrenches, I think they're color coded so they're really easy to differentiate which one goes to which size, especially if you use them often. I know a lot of people probably aren't wrenching on hose fittings every other day but if you have many cars or are working for a race team, or constantly changing setups then I would imagine that you're using these kinds of tools very often. I haven't bought a set but I should just because I hate messing up brand new fittings using the steel wrenches on them.

As a ghetto way around it I usually wrap it with a few layers of rag and then use an adjustable. I know this is definitely not "accepted" or "right".... for that reason I don't recommend it to anyone else. It does work, but I'd buy the wrenches.

 

[OH91awd]

Also, in regards to the aluminum AN wrenches, I think they're color coded so they're really easy to differentiate which one goes to which size, especially if you use them often. I know a lot of people probably aren't wrenching on hose fittings every other day but if you have many cars or are working for a race team, or constantly changing setups then I would imagine that you're using these kinds of tools very often. I haven't bought a set but I should just because I hate messing up brand new fittings using the steel wrenches on them.

As a ghetto way around it I usually wrap it with a few layers of rag and then use an adjustable. I know this is definitely not "accepted" or "right".... for that reason I don't recommend it to anyone else. It does work, but I'd buy the wrenches.

average guy would be better off to just get an adjustable an wrench or two. ive done the rag thing before i bought the jaws to do them right but i also do lines for more than just my own personal car as well.

 

[bling5tatus]

^^ The jaws are for bench assembly right? I think the wrenches are good for installation of lines into the vehicle as well.... not really something you can use the jaws for, unless I'm mistaken.

 

[OH91awd]

^^ The jaws are for bench assembly right? I think the wrenches are good for installation of lines into the vehicle as well.... not really something you can use the jaws for, unless I'm mistaken.

yea theyre for bench assembly. thats the only time i had to use rags on the fittings was during assembly. i have a compelete set of wrenches but i tend to use my adjusuable more often when working on the car

 

[Got Grip]

Tony, from the factory there's a 5/8" hose that goes from the lower water pipe to thermostat housing to act as a relief when the thermostat is closed. Do you think there's any rise in water pressure with having that gone or have you removed the thermostat?

I drilled several holes in my thermostat to get around this. I was worried about it also, good observation.

Also, in regards to the aluminum AN wrenches, I think they're color coded so they're really easy to differentiate which one goes to which size, especially if you use them often. I know a lot of people probably aren't wrenching on hose fittings every other day but if you have many cars or are working for a race team, or constantly changing setups then I would imagine that you're using these kinds of tools very often. I haven't bought a set but I should just because I hate messing up brand new fittings using the steel wrenches on them.

As a ghetto way around it I usually wrap it with a few layers of rag and then use an adjustable. I know this is definitely not "accepted" or "right".... for that reason I don't recommend it to anyone else. It does work, but I'd buy the wrenches.

They are color coded, which does help. You start to remember what color each size is and its quicker to grab those than anything else IMO.

Also, I've had several of the different types of AN Adjustable wrenches and they all seem to quickly wear out. The aluminum wrench set is a worthwhile investment IMO, as well as the soft jaws for your vice when making AN lines.

 

[Got Grip]

I'm nearing the end of the build here, I think there are only a couple things left to show. I have the exterior stuff like the rear lexan, sunroof plug installation and parachute mount to do. Then I'll spam everyone with pics of the completed car.

Are there other things people want to see? More detail on previous posts? Just post it up and I'll share info and pics if I have them.

 

[motomattx]

+1 on buying the AN wrenches and doing things properly, my fittings were expensive enough to not want them damaged, at least four of mine were $60-$80 each.

 

[b00stedtalon2]

I drilled several holes in my thermostat to get around this. I was worried about it also, good observation.

I have holes in my thermostat however I was still a little weary removing the bypass. Do you monitor water pressure? I was seeing 17PSI at 9000 rpm with the bypass hose, holes in the thermostat and a stock water pump.

 

[beansblacktsi]

I have holes in my thermostat however I was still a little weary removing the bypass. Do you monitor water pressure? I was seeing 17PSI at 9000 rpm with the bypass hose, holes in the thermostat and a stock water pump.

I was seeing big fluctuations and inconsistency with the hose bypassed, stock thermostat and stock waterpump. Coolant pressure was 60-80psi with thermostat during a pull. Removed the thermostat and pressure is around 26psi max now during a pull.

 

[Vegas Smith]

What issue is the excess pressure causing? Parasitic loss? Coolant temps to accelerate?

 

[beansblacktsi]

Never noticed any issues with the high pressure. But the whole reason I started measuring coolant pressure was to keep an eye on how the head gasket was sealing and to set up a safety if pressure went to high to pull timing out of it before it really hurt anything. Its dead consistent now with the thermostat removed so its a lot easier to keep an eye on.

 

[Got Grip]

I have holes in my thermostat however I was still a little weary removing the bypass. Do you monitor water pressure? I was seeing 17PSI at 9000 rpm with the bypass hose, holes in the thermostat and a stock water pump.

On my 2G I don't montior water pressure. It's something I want to add but ran out of time and sensors.

I was seeing big fluctuations and inconsistency with the hose bypassed, stock thermostat and stock waterpump. Coolant pressure was 60-80psi with thermostat during a pull. Removed the thermostat and pressure is around 26psi max now during a pull.

This is really good data. This was with no holes in the thermostat? I think I'll remove the thermostat for good measure going forward based on this data. Since it's primarily a race car and won't be driven in colder temperatures much I don't anticipate problems. Thank you!

 

[motomattx]

I have not had a thermostat for years, of course the nut jobs will suggest that it will cause your car to run hotter without one by some theory of cavitation etc etc, in reality it runs much cooler, go for it.