2G Crank But No Start, PLEASE HELP!

[Tyler’s_DSM]

I have a 1998 GS-T, stock 7-Bolt. Only external ,mods are exhaust manifold, not sure what brand due to was already on car, STMTuned air filter, HKS BOV (Recirculated), Megan Racing test pipe, Thermal R/D Catback, Walbro 190, running brand new plugs just replaced them like an hour before this post (NGK BPR6ES's), NGK wires (already on car).The manifold, BOV and wires are the only things that were on the car when purchased, other stuff I have added. I replaced valve seals 2 months prior to no start, never did timing on this car before but I tripled check before I turned the key over. It was perfectly timed. Two weeks, maybe two and a half ago I had my alternator go out on the way to work and got to work and home safely, next day replaced alternator and car ran perfectly fine for another five days. After those five days passed around 6:45 in the morning it was around 40 degrees outside (first pretty colder day compared to the past week prior and car just cranked normally but didn't wanna turn over .Now I thought it was a bad fuel pump because I did not hear it prime after cranking. So, replaced with a walbro 190 for time being until I get the build going. I put a water bottle (regular sized ice mountain haha) and cranked car over twice for about 1-2 seconds and filled the bottle about a fourth of the way so I assume I have decent enough pressure without a gauge. I checked twice on each injector if they were firing by using a flat blade screwdriver, heard each one tick constantly in the same rhythmic pattern. Checked resistance on the injectors and got 2.2 ohms for each. Checked relays prior to installing pump, checked out good on all three tests. So I'm more than positive it isn't fuel related. My next guess was coolant temp sensor, did not feel like testing so I just replaced brand new, still no start. Compression is fine, all four cylinders are within 1 psi of each other. Timing now me being lazy I DID NOT want to pull all belts and water pulley's off just to see the legit timing mark on crank. The dowel pin is around 3 o' clock, which I read and saw that's where it should be, my cam gear marks are spot on. Now I do plan on checking timing one last time. I would think after replacing valve seals and did timing correct it would not skip a tooth, but say I did not install belt correctly with tension? I still would think it would not take TWO months to finally skipped a tooth and even yet, the cam gears wouldn't line up if it did skip? I have babied the car since I replaced the seals, guess I feel the need to "break them in" haha. So now leaves us with spark and air, I know its usually never air but never hurts to check, Just unplugged MAS, just cranking still. Now for spark here's why I think it is spark related (i.e. CAS, coil pack, transistor, etc.), On cylinders 1 and 2, after cranking the car over numerous times I pulled them a few days ago (Saturday I think) and cylinder 2's plug was wet from gas, even cylinder was wet, cylinder 1 was soaked on the plug and inside cylinder. So on the left side of the motor for 3 and 4 I did not smell much gas if any and both plugs were damp, didn't really have any residue if wiped with finger, so pretty much dry. I assumed I was not getting spark in cylinders 1 and 2. Now those cylinders goes to different coil packs. Now that stumped me, is it possible for one coil off of each coil pack to go out while the other one on each pack works? Or could this mean a bad CAS or transistor? I then on Monday tested for spark with an OEM tools inline spark plug tester from AutoZone (yes I know Crapzone, but it was only $8 and I needed one) I cranked over each cylinder and each one gave the light a flicker, now on 1 and 2 that were soaked or wet from gas I could of sworn the light flickered a little dimmer, but I could of just been seeing things because I've been frustrated with my girl not starting, so I gave her a love tap and told her she can have a bigger turbo and built head if she cranks, she basically said f*ck you and did not start still?! So I have spark but maybe 1 and 2 were fouled from the gas, so today swapped for all brand new plugs, still no start!!! It did hesitate to start sorta and heard the exhaust backfire a little, not much. Tried spraying starter fluid, it just cranked and started but was idling real low and did not want to stay running so put foot on gas pedal wide open and it stayed running for 15-20 seconds idling below 500, not a rough idle just a dying idle, so I assumed again it is not fuel? I talked to one of my co workers whose a mechanic for the city (I work for Water Department) and he said sounds like something with ignition, asked a few other people who are more mechanically inclined than me and said the same. So now I'm here last resort before I lose my mind! I still feel like it is the CAS, transistor or coil pack(s). What could it be? Sorry for the long post, but I see a lot of people barely saying anything about their issue and what they tried or replaced, so I tried my best to give all info upfront to get a straight answer rather than me coming back on here and explaining other things I did not state in the first place. Thanks for anyone who assists me!!!

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

I must say, this is officially the longest ever post I've seen on these forums.

 

[GregoryRyan]

Might want to break this up into smaller paragraphs to make it easier to digest. High level information, focus on getting the issue with what’s going on so that we can try and help you.

 

[Tyler’s_DSM]

I must say, this is officially the longest ever post I've seen on these forums.

Yes I know it’s the longest post ever on here but just here me out. I hate it when someone posts a thread let’s say for instance, “Crank but no start” and only states that the persons car doesn’t start but cranks and he has checked a few things or even checked everything. Obviously they wouldn’t of checked everything if it didn’t start. Then you have people trying to help figure an answer for the issue yet they didn’t give all the info so others are asking things like did you check the resistance on this or did you check fuses and relays or do you have spark or are you sure you checked it right? I rather give all the info upfront so whoever decides to help will know what I did and how I figured it up.

 

[Tyler’s_DSM]

Might want to break this up into smaller paragraphs to make it easier to digest. High level information, focus on getting the issue with what’s going on so that we can try and help you.

I can fully understand what you’re saying. I just felt like to give all info up front so I don’t have anyone asking me if I checked this or that. Maybe went to much into to detail, I’m sorry. I’m just frustrated I can’t get it to start. Have fuel. Pretty sure I have spark. I recheck timing once again. Other than that I think it’s CAS, etc. like I stated

 

[kodylk08]

Whata battery voltage at? To me it sounds like its fuel related. I had similar issue in the past. Everything seemed to check out fine. But turns out my battery wasn't pushing enough out to the injectors so they weren't firing. Put a new battery in it and I haven't had an issue since. That was also with a full size battery charger/jump starter on it and set to start. Just a thought.

 

[motomattx]

First things first here...do a compression test asap, you can borrow a tester from your local auto parts store with a small refundable deposit, report back afterwards with less than 5000 words in one sentence so its easier to read, the 98' ecu is solid state flashable and not likely to have failed but not impossible, but lets check everything else first and work our way upwards.

 

[chrysler kid]

I can't read all that

 

[Tyler’s_DSM]

Whata battery voltage at? To me it sounds like its fuel related. I had similar issue in the past. Everything seemed to check out fine. But turns out my battery wasn't pushing enough out to the injectors so they weren't firing. Put a new battery in it and I haven't had an issue since. That was also with a full size battery charger/jump starter on it and set to start. Just a thought.

Battery voltage is at 12.4 last time I looked was a few days ago. Cranking voltage was at 11.7.

 

[Tyler’s_DSM]

I can't read all that

It’s okay I’ve learned not to make a book on here ever again haha

 

[Tyler’s_DSM]

First things first here...do a compression test asap, you can borrow a tester from your local auto parts store with a small refundable deposit, report back afterwards with less than 5000 words in one sentence so its easier to read, the 98' ecu is solid state flashable and not likely to have failed but not impossible, but lets check everything else first and work our way upwards.

Cylinder 1 - 101 psi, 2 - 101 psi, 3 and 4 both were 104 psi, mind you this test was on a engine who has not been at operating temps prior to this, yes I know your suppose to warm motor up first for a compression test but engine wont start. I feel like my numbers are fine. I did discover some small cuts/slits in the plug wires as I was taking them off for the test, so I plan on replacing wires and seeing if they starts it.

 

[Tyler’s_DSM]

After making my first post WAY too long for others to read, this is a shortened version. Replaced alternator and five days later didn't turn over, cranks fine just does not want to start. Has not started for about two weeks now. Battery voltage is 12.7, tried even seeing if battery was bad by jump starting car, just doesn't wanna turn over still.
I tested spark by using spare plug and grounding it to battery by jumper cables, all four has spark.
Compression is 1 and 2 - 101psi, 3 and 4 - 104 psi, so its good for a motor not being warmed up prior.
Fuel, I used flat screwdriver to hear for injector ticking, double checked and all four are firing. Replaced fuel pump with walbro 190. Checked both fuel and mfi relays, those check to be good for voltage, resistance and continuity. Checked for pressure by taking hose from regulator and turned car over for about 1 sec twice, filled bottle around quarter of the way of a 16oz water bottle.
Checked fuses and relays over twice. Only thing that is weird is that cylinders 1 and 2 next to timing cover are wet in fuel, while 3 and 4 are dry. I'm getting spark so why are 1 and 2 wet? They go to separate coil packs so I have no clue. Oh and by the way I have checked if my timing marks are lined up and the cams line up and dowel pin on crank goes to around 3 o' clock if it matters. Guessing its fuel, maybe spark related, or a sensor.
I have replaced fuel pump as I said, plugs, will be swapping wires, coolant temp sensor changed. So what am I missing? Please help!!!

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

Cylinder 1 - 101 psi, 2 - 101 psi, 3 and 4 both were 104 psi, mind you this test was on a engine who has not been at operating temps prior to this, yes I know your suppose to warm motor up first for a compression test but engine wont start. I feel like my numbers are fine. I did discover some small cuts/slits in the plug wires as I was taking them off for the test, so I plan on replacing wires and seeing if they starts it.

I think that is under the service limit, correct?

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

Are you sure the pistons are wet with fuel, and not oil?

 

[rabenne]

depending on your gage - 100 psi is pretty low.

What is your fuel pressure? You said you are using a 190lph pump, but what regulator do you use?

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

Also, you said that you ensured all 4 injectors were firing, but if that's the case then how come only 2 of the pistons are wet?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Spray some Carb Cleaner in the TB while you are trying to start it and see if she wants to react. That will tell you if you are getting the fuel to the combustion chamber very easily. If it does the same old thing, then recheck the spark and if it is in the correct firing order.

 

[Tyler’s_DSM]

Are you sure the pistons are wet with fuel, and not oil?

Yes it is gas I can smell it. Now here’s the thing today my mechanic at work came to look at car when he had free time. He said change the fuel filter. I did. Car hesitated to start and turn over a bit better a few backfires. Sprayed starting fluid in through the bov recirculation hole car started then stalled did it one last time it started and ran for 6-10 minutes before I shut it off. I saw smoke coming from coolant temp sensor. So I need to tighten that down. I also heard ticking or weird like spark noises from under the spark plug cover. I did a compression test when I first had the car after I replaced valve seals I had 160 in two cylinders and 162 in the third and 161 in the fourth. So compression is fine before and after this. When the car was running for the few minutes it was idiling weird. Well the idle wasn’t bad but the motor sounded like a lawnmower when I revved up to 3000 or above. What’s going on? Also sorry, I forgot before I got the car running I unplugged the tps and it cranked and really wanted to start so I plugged it back in then that’s when it started with the fluid. Before that starting fluid didnt ever start the car. So could it even be a bad tps, cas, or maybe I’m having a misfire due to a coil pack? Any feedback is awesome.

 

[Tyler’s_DSM]

depending on your gage - 100 psi is pretty low.

What is your fuel pressure? You said you are using a 190lph pump, but what regulator do you use?

Stock regulator, but before the 190 I had the stock fuel pump and I know for a fact it wasn’t the fuel pump that was bad cuz after I replaced it with 190 it still didn’t start

 

[Tyler’s_DSM]

Also, you said that you ensured all 4 injectors were firing, but if that's the case then how come only 2 of the pistons are wet?

Double checked. Resistance on all is 2.2 ohms and with a flat blade screw driver they were all ticking checked twice. And I’m not sure. I was reading on other posts that it could be a bad CAS cuz it has something to do with ignition or fuel. Idk it’s what I read.

 

[Tyler’s_DSM]

Spray some Carb Cleaner in the TB while you are trying to start it and see if she wants to react. That will tell you if you are getting the fuel to the combustion chamber very easily. If it does the same old thing, then recheck the spark and if it is in the correct firing order.

It’s in correct firing order. And actually if you read my other longer post I said I sprayed some starter fluid after taking tps off and cranking it started to turn then put tps back on and sprayed started fluid in and first time it died. Second time it burned through all it and Idled for 6-10 minutes before I shut the car off myself. Please if you can read that reply and tell me what you think it could be. I’m lost

 

[motomattx]

Its low but theres enough there for it to start and run so thats not stopping it from running. Next you need to borrow a noid light to test the injectors for pulse.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Maybe the ECU isn't mass firing all of the injectors on start up. We really need a log to view.

 

[Tyler’s_DSM]

Maybe the ECU isn't mass firing all of the injectors on start up. We really need a log to view.

I’m not sure if I’m able to get one to view. But here’s the weird thing, I started it last night. Used starter fluid it cranked and turned over finally. After the starter fluid burned up I didn’t spray anymore. It idled for 10-20 minutes I even slowly revved car up to 3500 and let off easy. Didn’t die off. Car kept idling but didn’t seem right. So obviously it’s getting fuel and spark but not enough to start it. Could it actually be the CAS? I haven’t checked if that sensor is bad nor how to check. But once I revved the car up fast and let off fast or put it in any gear the car dies. Vacuum leak? CAS bad? It ran fine before the day it didn’t start. I had no prior symptoms of anything going bad our failing. So it leaves me to think a sensor but which? Usually injectors, even crank sensor and some other things I think it could be have symptoms before they fully go out and fail.

 

[Tyler’s_DSM]

I think that is under the service limit, correct?

I got car to start finally, but here’s the catch. With starting fluid. I let car idle for about 10-20 minutes which means it can run on its own after started fluid. So it’s not getting enough fuel or spark on crank. Leaves me to think CAS or coil pack or ignition module. I don’t think a injector or injectors would go bad over night? Especially without any symptoms leading up to a failing injector. But when I revved car up it felt like it had no power. Now if I revved it slowly and let off throttle slow it didn’t die off. Anytime I let off throttle real quick after revving it would die. Sounds like a lawnmower when revved to 3000. But if put in gear car just stalls. I have tested injectors for pulse by screwdriver and I double checked each one and I can hear all pulsing perfect.