Correct way to wire battery cutoff switch.

[Irrational]

Dan, I believe you're going to need a box too.

I was told you don't need a box or breather on the Optima Fully sealed batteries because they are there own box and are dry cell so they don't give off vapors. Is this True?


Also how far from the ground does the switch have to be mounted?
I would like to put mine on the top of the back bumper is that too low?

 

[Syndicate13]

Or if you're running a short route IC piping setup you can relocate it to the SMIC location. I'm not sure if there's enough room for the 1G guys but that's where mine is.

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[HustlerTalon]

wow....first time I've seen that^^^

Even with my creative mind, I would have never thought of relocating the battery to that location.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Wow syndicate thats pretty innovative.Also to those who run by NHRA is anything else need to run the battery in the rear besides a box if it is a dry cell?

Dustin

 

[TalonESIT]

WOw! That is some spot to place the battery! Did you make a custom bracket? Could you Pm me some more info about that?

 

[Syndicate13]

WOw! That is some spot to place the battery! Did you make a custom bracket? Could you Pm me some more info about that?

I suppose I can just post it here. I needed to relocate my battery because of my alcohol injection system and I didn't really want to put it in the back. I had heard of charging issues and my electrical system is taxed enough. Me and my father were looking and it appeared that it would fit so we went for it. I took the brace for the intake manifold, cut and bent it then welded it for strength. Took the stock battery tray and flipped it over, welded that to the bracket and bolted it to the framerail. The battery sits perfectly inside the tray's lip, then using the tab that the fender bolts to, I used the stock battery tie down rod in the tray hole and bolted there. The positive terminal sits square in the SMIC piping hole so no chance of contact there. It's rock solid and has been there going on 6 months or more now, daily driven rain and all. I also wired in a remote positive terminal on the cruise vacuum bracket so I can still jump it if need be.

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[92awddsm]

Here are a couple of pics. I havent had time to get any better pics.

 

[Kevin Jewer]

Putting the battery in the nose is an old FWD trick to get more weight over the front wheels too.

 

[oztofrdm]

Or if you're running a short route IC piping setup you can relocate it to the SMIC location. I'm not sure if there's enough room for the 1G guys but that's where mine is.

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Looks like its possible on a 1g also. http://www.dsmtimes.org/shepherd/Picture 104.jpg Thats really cool i have never seen the battery located there

 

[slipstream808]

Not to be a "dick", but what about water/snow/rocks/etc.? Wont there be an issue with things getting all over the battery and the battery terminals?

 

[Syndicate13]

Not to be a "dick", but what about water/snow/rocks/etc.? Wont there be an issue with things getting all over the battery and the battery terminals?

Well I live in South Florida so I doubt I need to worry about snow anytime soon. It alwasys puzzles me that people tend to think that an engine bay is waterproof or something. The battery is sealed and I've driven the car in some heavy rain. I don't think it'd be a good idea to submerge the thing but then the water would have to be up past the headlights for that.

 

[DSM90AWD]

Well I live in South Florida ....submerge the thing but then the water would have to be up past the headlights for that.

Tis the season

I'd be more worried about road gators

I was up to 1AM last night installing my Flaming River remote cutoff and wish I'd of logged in here befor starting as I'd spent ~2hours trying to locate it with the proper orienation to activate with the AWD Hump/Battery box taking away many of my options. Ended up very similarly to Keith's, though mine's mounted to a panel support I'd reinforced.

I hooked my fuel pump to the disconnect as Kevin mentioned above (in lieu of running the Alt line back) so hopefully when I test tonight it'll work

For any that have actually been thru a NHRA tech with one of these setups, do they just test to see if it works or do they scrutinize the wiring/box..etc? Trying to get this thing together/legal for the E-Town shootout this Sat so would hate to blow a day and $$$ to fail tech.

 

[99gst_racer]

I hooked my fuel pump to the disconnect as Kevin mentioned above (in lieu of running the Alt line back) so hopefully when I test tonight it'll work

For any that have actually been thru a NHRA tech with one of these setups, do they just test to see if it works or do they scrutinize the wiring/box..etc? Trying to get this thing together/legal for the E-Town shootout this Sat so would hate to blow a day and $$$ to fail tech.

I plan on wiring mine like this as well. Be sure to post back with results and let us know how it works, John.

PS - I'm mostly interested in the delay (if any) before the engine actually dies.

 

[Kevin Jewer]

My track is pretty strict, and they just pushed on the box to see how well it was mounted (mine rocked back a forth a little, and they didn't complain). They then hit the switch to make sure it cuts the motor (and wipes out my DSMlink settings every time, awesome). There is a delay of about 2-3 seconds. Tech never complained about it. One guy asked about it just out of curiousity, and I proposed the idea that this may actually be better since the whole fuel system would be depressurized doing it this way, and he agreed. I can't see any tech officials having a real problem with this.

 

[DSM90AWD]

Scrambled last week to get my cutoff installed and working prior to the E-Town event and wouldn't you know it, they never even bothered to check it Oh, well at least I have it just in case I ever do get checked.

Pics:

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I wired the fuel pump directly to the swiched pole in lieu of the alternator.

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Battery box and Flaming River Cutoff position. Note that I wired the 150A fuse between the Battery and Cutoff just in case the cutoff itself ever shorted on anything.

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Small hole on the black strip is hardly noticable with the rod removed. Will cover with a vinal decal.

Note that in lieu of the fuel pump rewire to the cutoff, you could just pull the 80A alt fuse (two 10mm bolts holding in) prior to tech. This will in effect disconnect the Alt so the battery disconnect would immediately kill the engine

 

[RipperXX]

So there is no way around the master cut off switch? I have relocated my battery to my rear hatch. And I want to run my car at the track. BUT I DO NOT want to cut/drill a hole in my rear bumper for that damn switch.

 

[snowborder714]

So there is no way around the master cut off switch? I have relocated my battery to my rear hatch. And I want to run my car at the track. BUT I DO NOT want to cut/drill a hole in my rear bumper for that damn switch.

Check out post #9 in this thread - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263130&highlight=battery+cut+off+switch

That doesn't require you doing any modification to your rear bumper and looks pretty sweet!

 

[92awddsm]

Check out post #9 in this thread - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263130&highlight=battery+cut+off+switch

That doesn't require you doing any modification to your rear bumper and looks pretty sweet!

That will not pass tech at a lot of tracks. The switch has to be clearly visible and easily accessible from the rear just in case a track official has to shut you down. It is pretty slick but more of a wasted effort than anything.

 

[99gst_racer]

That will not pass tech at a lot of tracks. The switch has to be clearly visible and easily accessible from the rear just in case a track official has to shut you down. It is pretty slick but more of a wasted effort than anything.

Keith - If he fully removed his liscense plate for race days, they would probably allow it. Well, around here they would at least. What do you think?

 

[98mitsuGSX-SD]

I say it's really dependant on the inspection official; if he lets it fly he does if not I guess your watching not racing. I would have to say it's not easily seen or marked. You have to actually look down from inside the bumper to see the on/off toggle. The only thing you see from a straight line would be the silver toggle switch.

 

[RipperXX]

*sigh* I might have to RE-relocate the battery to stock location just so I can pass tech then.

 

[92awddsm]

*sigh* I might have to RE-relocate the battery to stock location just so I can pass tech then.

Dont do that just yet. Unless you are racing at a big event, 90% of the time, the techs wont even notice. Take it to the track and try to tech the car. Dont offer any info to the tech guy unless asked. If it passes, have fun. If it doesnt pass tech, you should be given a raincheck to run a different time when the car is "legal".

 

[RipperXX]

I am only going to be home for 10 days, (Georgia) then my leave is over and I have to return to Ft.Sill Oklahoma.... And seeing as both my DD car and my wifes car have been keyed here, I am NOT bringing my Talon here. Sooo it really needs to pass tech .

The factory connections are still there under the hood so I think with a few tools I could move the battery back under the hood in a half hr or so. if it doesn't pass. I just have to find that factory battery plate... Hope I kept that .

 

[turbosax2]

I had a thought about how to do this too - hopefully I make enough sense that somebody understands what I'm saying..

What about making a plate that would attach to the rear bumper (not the bumper cover) to go vertical - the plate would basically sit right behind the license plate sticking straight up with the kill switch sticking out of it. The license plate could be removed on track days and the kill switch would be easily visible and the plate could be bright red or something to draw even more attention to it. Would this be any more tech friendly? Would it pass for a big event?

 

[DSM Jeff]

I should get some pics of my set up. I have a 90 and have a flamming river kill switch with the extended rod. All I did was remove the rear hatch key lock. Mounted the switch to the body (actually spaced it away from the body a 1/4" with an aluminum plate. This made it fit nicer) Anyway, removed the lock cylinder and mount the switch so the rod can be installed through the key hole and center taillight section. I cut down the rod as well because they supply you with more then enough. Now you can look stock with out the rod screwed in or install the rod when you hit the track.

Also for guys with 92-94 you can do the same thing but a little different. Get the other style switch that you 'turn'. They have a silver knob and your turn it one way to shut the car down. Remove the lock cylinder and reverse lens (I believe theres a plastic cover on the license plate side, pop that off and remove the 2 screws and pull the lense towards the plate). Screw in the switch and screw the knob on. Attach the wires and then put your reverse lense back in. YES It fits and keep things looking like stock until you get to the track.

Lastly I have my electrical rewired. I made a new alternator charge back wire that runs through an 80amp breaker then to the battery. From the battery I have a fuse before the switch (I believe) then to the switch. From the switch back to the front to a distribution block. There I have 3 fuses in the block for the original fused links on the battery, starter and a heavy gauge wire going back to my fuse box. I also have a battery box.

If anyone is interested I'll try and get some pics of my 90.