Check Engine Light from Oil Overfill?

[cbarr0288]

Changed Oil last night, trying 5w30 high mileage synthetic blend. Main seal was also leaking but not too bad so I figured I'd give the stop leak stuff a try. It supposedly will make the gaskets swell a bit to try to close the gap in the main seal. Guy at pep boys said it was my best shot in fixing it without taking the engine out and since head gasket was done recently about 70-75% chance in fixing the leak. So I put the 4 quarts of oil and stop-leak mix in there and now there's a check engine light on. Could this be because its overfilled? I dont really want to drain too much right now because I want to let the stop leak do its job and the bottle says it should work within the 1st 200 miles. Its only been 10.

Advice please.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Your check engine light has to be for something else. As long as the car is running okay I would continue to drive it to see if the stop leak works. Good luck.

 

[Abe'sGST]

hook it up to a scan tool, i haven't heard of CEL coming on for oil overfill (may happen though idk) and like mentioned above, if it drives fine just keep driving it until you hit the 200 miles and see how that stop leak works for you

 

[DSM1G90]

Simple, that Stop Leak junk is creating something strange in the exhaust vapor (since you're always using oil in any motor by being burnt off) that the o2 sensor (or, some other sensor) doesnt like at all.

Thus, the sensor senses this goofy mixture and is telling the ECU something is wrong-why the CEL

Teflon, that is used in these seals doesn't swell like rubber when additives are used.

Plus, if that seal is leaking, it's best to get it out pronto for that hardened teflon will actually cut a very minute groove on where it contacts on te crank and no seal will ever stop the leak..have to either rebuild up the crank, or replace.

 

[cbarr0288]

Update: after driving a bit more the CEL stopped. Perhaps the ecu has accepted this new oil weight or exhaust gas as normal.

hook it up to a scan tool, i haven't heard of CEL coming on for oil overfill (may happen though idk) and like mentioned above, if it drives fine just keep driving it until you hit the 200 miles and see how that stop leak works for you

Only thing I could think of is the oil creating a higher than normal resistance on the crank's rotation because of the overfill and the ecu sensing this in comparison with normal results. Don't have a scan tool but if it works on the RS as well as the GSX then it's probably a good investment.

Simple, that Stop Leak junk is creating something strange in the exhaust vapor (since you're always using oil in any motor by being burnt off) that the o2 sensor (or, some other sensor) doesnt like at all.

Thus, the sensor senses this goofy mixture and is telling the ECU something is wrong-why the CEL

Teflon, that is used in these seals doesn't swell like rubber when additives are used.

Plus, if that seal is leaking, it's best to get it out pronto for that hardened teflon will actually cut a very minute groove on where it contacts on te crank and no seal will ever stop the leak..have to either rebuild up the crank, or replace.

Im having trouble picturing what your talking about here. Obviously you have a better understanding of how the engine is assembled, so what you're saying is to drain the oil I just changed?

 

[Fotowntalon]

Don't have a scan tool but if it works on the RS as well as the GSX then it's probably a good investment.

It's a good investment, but autozone will check CEL's for free for future reference.

 

[Abe'sGST]

Simple, that Stop Leak junk is creating something strange in the exhaust vapor (since you're always using oil in any motor by being burnt off) that the o2 sensor (or, some other sensor) doesnt like at all.

Thus, the sensor senses this goofy mixture and is telling the ECU something is wrong-why the CEL

Teflon, that is used in these seals doesn't swell like rubber when additives are used.

Plus, if that seal is leaking, it's best to get it out pronto for that hardened teflon will actually cut a very minute groove on where it contacts on te crank and no seal will ever stop the leak..have to either rebuild up the crank, or replace.

your right, most of the time any stop leak doesn't work but they do help most of the time reduce how much it leaks. I used it on my old RS and it worked good, reduced my oil leak by imma say 70-80%

 

[UCF201101]

I have never heard of a code being thrown due to oil being overfilled. Its not a good idea to overfill. Do you have a scanner tool for your ob2?

 

[cbarr0288]

Update the stop leak worked 100% after about 150 miles!!!

Exciting news for me itll definitely boost the value of my current car and be much less of a mess on the driveway. Now for the cleanup.

Simple, that Stop Leak junk is creating something strange in the exhaust vapor (since you're always using oil in any motor by being burnt off) that the o2 sensor (or, some other sensor) doesnt like at all.

Thus, the sensor senses this goofy mixture and is telling the ECU something is wrong-why the CEL

Teflon, that is used in these seals doesn't swell like rubber when additives are used.

Plus, if that seal is leaking, it's best to get it out pronto for that hardened teflon will actually cut a very minute groove on where it contacts on te crank and no seal will ever stop the leak..have to either rebuild up the crank, or replace.

It worked.

your right, most of the time any stop leak doesn't work but they do help most of the time reduce how much it leaks. I used it on my old RS and it worked good, reduced my oil leak by imma say 70-80%

100% reduced here. I'd recommend this to anyone with a small main seal leak. For $8.50, its worth taking a shot.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Glad to hear that it worked for you. That's great!