The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

check engine light help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

daddyo

10+ Year Contributor
60
0
Apr 29, 2011
Des Moines, Iowa
I have searched for an hour for the answer to this question. I have two codes from my cel. 12 and 31. Volume air flow sensor and Knock sensor. The maf is hacked. I have no bcs or mbc. The evap system has been bypassed. Not sure if my maf is bad causing knock or if its two different issues. Any help would be great.

By the way not sure if this is right. Egr has no hoses to it.( valve under TB ) also only line from the stock intake is going to the BOV. The other two holes on the intake are plugged up. The bov line (smaller) goes to the intake manifold.
 
There shouldn't be any line from your intake hose/pipe to your BOV. The only line to the BOV should come from your intake manifold and it shouldn't have anything tee'd into it.

How are you controlling boost if you have no MBC or BCS? Vac line from turbo to wastegate directly? If so, how much boost are you running? If you're running wastegate pressure you shouldn't be boosting mor than 11psi or so.

Have you done a boost leak test? Have you tried putting the MAF back together? Do you have anything to datalog with or tune your car with?
 
The bov dumps back into the intake. That is normal. The turbo line is hooked up to the waistgate. Going off the factory boost guage I am getting 7psi. I know they are unreliable. I have a boost guage on its way. I have not done a boost leak test yet. The maf can is cut only in the front. The maf bottom honeycomb is removed and since i bought the car this way i have know way to put it back together.
I have no datalogging as of yet. Just bought the car. I want to get the car running right before any upgrades ( besides the new clutch and flywheel) I have been thinking of getting a logger but wasnt sure if it was needed for running a basicly stock setup.
 
If you have a knock sensor code, it generally indicates that your knock sensor isn't working. They don't set codes to tell you they heard knock; that would be normal operation.

Have you considered the possiblity that you may just need a new knock sensor and a known good MAF?
Have you looked at the knock sensor? If thers goo leaking out, your diagnosis is complete on that code.
 
I will check that. You guys have me interested in moving forward with the datalogging. I have a new laptop running win 7. Is there software that supports that for a 1g. Also a good link to a cable kit for a laptop would be great. I have searched but keep coming up with old links. Searching on here is kinda a pita. Alot of misc to sort through to find what you are actualy lokking for.
 
Simple way to tell if the knock sensor is bad is reach down and feel the back of it if it's soft and you can feel the screw its going bad if there isn't stuff covering it and you just feel the screw then it's bad. As for the maf get a factory one and don't hack it there really is no big gains from doing it and more often than not it messes up the maf.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top