1G Check engine light

[Elpizer2]

Hi guys

There is something weird happening in my car

When I am WOT under boost check engine light comes. No DTC on ECMLink nothing. When driving normal check engine light is off. It happens only under boost.

Also it blowed the 100 amp fuse.

What do you think could be?

 

[AWDGrayBird]

Do you have the check engine light come on at a x degrees of knock?

 

[Elpizer2]

Do you have the check engine light come on at a x degrees of knock?

No, my ECM link is all stock. Where can I see that? If check engine light comes on because of knock?

 

[AWDGrayBird]

It is all in the "Dash tab". 4th from the bottom in ECU config. The only way to know for sure is to take a log when it happens and post it.

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[steve]

And that setting it a default on ECMLink and likely the cause of the light. The only way to know for sure is to get a log or change the setting and see if the light changes. But if it's knock you want to fix it not mask the fact by turning off the warning light.

Blowing the fuse is likely a different problem.

 

[Elpizer2]

And that setting it a default on ECMLink and likely the cause of the light. The only way to know for sure is to get a log or change the setting and see if the light changes. But if it's knock you want to fix it not mask the fact by turning off the warning light.

Blowing the fuse is likely a different problem.

Ok my alternator was bad, So I replaced it. But the fuse still blows. Any ideas?. All wiring looks good
.

 

[Elpizer2]

I figured it out about the fuse

The alternator replacement that I installed is 130 amp. So I gotta put the charge wire from the alternator to the battery directly to + terminal with a 140 wire fuse.

However I still have the check engine under boost. I'll send pics about my ECM link config settings so see if it's the knock alert

 

[Elpizer2]

These are my ECM link settings I don't see anything about knock and check engine light

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[steve]

That's what Knock CEL is. Yours is set to turn on the Check Engine Light (CEL) at 5 degrees of timing retard from knock. You have to log knock to see when and how much.

 

[Elpizer2]

That's what Knock CEL is. Yours is set to turn on the Check Engine Light (CEL) at 5 degrees of timing retard from knock. You have to log knock to see when and how much.

Ok and what's the boost gauge selection? How it works?

 

[steve]

Ok and what's the boost gauge selection? How it works?

Check the pull-down and see what options it gives you for using the boost gauge. Right now it's set to stock, which is display "boost" on the boost gauge.

Note, you will also get the CEL on if your coolant exceeds 112C so it could be either and you'll have to log to find out which.

 

[Elpizer2]

Check the pull-down and see what options it gives you for using the boost gauge. Right now it's set to stock, which is display "boost" on the boost gauge.

Oh I see, and the above options turn on the check engine light KNOCK CELL, COOLANT CELL.

What's Coolant offset?

 

[steve]

What's Coolant offset?

From https://www.ecmtuning.com/downloads/docs/V2-Users Guide.pdf

Coolant Offset is basically added to the true
coolant temp indicated by the sensor. This can be useful for adjusting the way the ECU
responds to coolant temps, for example to activate fan control sooner when using a lower
thermostat. The coolant temp value logged by DSMLink and the one used to flag the
check engine light is still the true coolant temp read from the temp sensor

WRT your other question. https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/dsmlinkdashgaugeranges?s[]=coolant

 

[Elpizer2]

From https://www.ecmtuning.com/downloads/docs/V2-Users Guide.pdf

Coolant Offset is basically added to the true coolant temp indicated by the sensor. This can be useful for adjusting the way the ECU responds to coolant temps, for example to activate fan control sooner when using a lower thermostat. The coolant temp value logged by DSMLink and the one used to flag the check engine light is still the true coolant temp read from the temp sensor

WRT your other question. https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/dsmlinkdashgaugeranges?s[]=coolant

Ok I find out the problem,

I am getting knock when boost comes, 12-14 degrees retardation, also my coolant temps goes up to 105-108 C, coolant temps goes down when no boost

The knock is only for a moment like 1 sec when boost comes, then no more knock. any ideas?

 

[miliman13]

They’re just gonna keep repeating themselves; about you posting that log …

 

[Elpizer2]

They’re just gonna keep repeating themselves; about you posting that log …

I'll post the data log today night, but just knock when boost comes 3000-3400 rpm only in 3th or 4th gear pool

 

[steve]

They’re just gonna keep repeating themselves; about you posting that log …

Actually my New Years Resolution was to start ignoring people who don't follow directions.

 

[Elpizer2]

Actually my New Years Resolution was to start ignoring people who don't follow directions.

Sorry Steve, I didn't upload the log because I was soo busy at work. You are right, I'll upload datalog first, there you go I uploaded it here. Running MAFT, 10.9 11 AFR WOT, it's knocking I don't why

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[steve]

ECMlink - How to attach a ECMLink "LOG"

Although I have this posted in FAQ's, here is how to attach an ECMLink file "LOG" to a thread.You must be registered to see element.Marty

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[Elpizer2]

ECMlink - How to attach a ECMLink "LOG"

Although I have this posted in FAQ's, here is how to attach an ECMLink file "LOG" to a thread.You must be registered to see element.Marty

www.dsmtuners.com

Done, there it's. coolant temp rises under boost and goes down when no boost, knock as well.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Too much timing will cause that exact issue. If timing is WAY too much, your exhaust will glow, I know. I didn't look at the tune or the log, but it just sounds like you should check base timing and it should be at 5* with the check connector grounded or done in ECMLink.

 

[steve]

Why do you have the the intake temp and barometric pressure locked?
The cause of your CEL is very clear, you start knocking 16.5 seconds and again at 19 into the log.

No, my ECM link is all stock. Where can I see that? If check engine light comes on because of knock?

And it's not stock. You have modified both timing tables in addition to the above.

 

[Elpizer2]

Why do you have the the intake temp and barometric pressure locked?
The cause of your CEL is very clear, you start knocking 16.5 seconds and again at 19 into the log.



And it's not stock. You have modified both timing tables in addition to the above.

I do have maf translator 3 inch GM maf that's why my air temp is locked. I'll upgrade this week to speed density to see if I get an improvement.

I just put more fuel and knock and temperature come down a little bit. I'll upgrade to speed density and log again

However my radiator is the aftermarket, it's smaller. I think I'll need to upgrade it as we'll

 

[Elpizer2]

Too much timing will cause that exact issue. If timing is WAY too much, your exhaust will glow, I know. I didn't look at the tune or the log, but it just sounds like you should check base timing and it should be at 5* with the check connector grounded or done in ECMLink.

Ok I did the timing light adjustment with ECMlink, apparently exhaust cam mark is retarded 1 teeth of. 5 degrees crank and intake cam but exhaust is 1 away. Maybe this is the issue, all gases cant out fast enough and temps goes up under boost. I'll fix it and let you know what's the behivor

 

[Elpizer2]

Ok I did the timing light adjustment with ECMlink, apparently exhaust cam mark is retarded 1 teeth of. 5 degrees crank and intake cam but exhaust is 1 away. Maybe this is the issue, all gases cant out fast enough and temps goes up under boost. I'll fix it and let you know what's the behivor

Too much timing will cause that exact issue. If timing is WAY too much, your exhaust will glow, I know. I didn't look at the tune or the log, but it just sounds like you should check base timing and it should be at 5* with the check connector grounded or done in ECMLink.

Ok I replaced the coolant temperature sensor to see if the sensor was reading bad when the car is warmed up and now it's reading 95-100 temp WOT full boost. so I believe the other sensor was bad, it was reading up to 125 130 C wtf

The car doens't feels super hot after a pull WOT. however I still have knock readings when gearing, when rpm goes down because of gears. between gears, shifting from 2th to 3th, 3th to 4th it reads knock

There is no knock WOT anymore, just when shifting

what do you think?