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1G check engine light

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mikey6981

Probationary Member
27
0
May 9, 2010
El Cajon, California
so my cel comes on after the engine idles for a min or so, but doesnt come on when the engine is off but key is in the on position to check the cel. any ideas what this could be? the idle air valve does make a wierd grinding sound when i turn the key to the on position. anyhelp would be great...


Mike
 
so my cel comes on after the engine idles for a min or so, but doesnt come on when the engine is off but key is in the on position to check the cel. any ideas what this could be? the idle air valve does make a wierd grinding sound when i turn the key to the on position. anyhelp would be great...


Mike

When it comes on after the car idles, does it ever turn back off while driving?

First things first though, get it to a parts store that does free scanning and see what they pull up so we know what we might be dealing with...
 
no it never turns back off... and unfortunatly it is against some stupid law that says autoparts stores can't check CEL's
 
The parts store should be able to at least give you the error codes and you can work from there.
 
Back to the original question: is the idle speed too high for this induces a lean mixture which the OX sensor tries to work with and if not, then it throws a cel the that the OX sensor isn't doing its thing.
 
i just replaced the o2 sensor.

I dont know anyone around me that owns an OBD1 scanner... unless someone on here can let me use theres (might be a 12 pack for that someone)....

could a cracked exhaust manifold be a cause? or a bad idle air valve?

if it is its the dumbest law ive ever heard of

yes it is califorina law and yes i agree it is the dumbest law ever!!!
 
You can read the codes with a cheap analog volt meter, 12v LED, or 12v Piezo buzzer from Radio Shack.
The positive lead goes to pin 1 on the DLC and the negative to pin 12.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/319844-1g-code-reader-cel-code-reader.html

i have already done that.... for some reason wheni turn the key to the on position to check the codes nothing comes up... but a few seconds later the CEL comes on but it wont give me any codes...

i will go out right now and try it again and tell you guys if anything changes...

ok so i pulled code 31 which is the Detonation Sensor.... so now what do i need to do???
 
That would be your knock sensor if I'm not mistaken. But you could check the wire running from it to make sure it's not frayed, burned or damaged in anyway. If that checks out. How's your car been running? If it's been running fine you could just save some hassle and replace the knock sensor. If that doesn't work then I'd think you got some tuning issues.
 
the car runs fine imo but it just idles alittle funky and it also surges about 2 to 300 rpms at idle. but i do know that my BOV leaks. I used sea foam the other night ( through the vacum lines) and the cars rpms went up in stead of it stumbling like my explorer did I thought thats was alittle wierd.

can any one help me locate the knock sensor?
 
can any one help me locate the knock sensor?

On the firewall side of the block in the middle under the intake manifold. The connector is attached to the intake manifold support and you can follow the wire to the sensor.
 
thank you all... would the knock sensor cause me to have extremely bad MPG's? and a rough idle?
 
so i think i know why i have bad MPG's..... i just found out i have 1000cc injectors.... now why in the hell would someone put 1000cc injectors on a mostly stock motor? now i could understand if it had a bigger turbo or something like that, but all this car has is a MBC and injectors...WTF!!!!

does anyone have anyone injectors for cheap that are a little smaller that i could run without a controller and still run 20 psi on?( i cant get the boost any lower for some reason)
 
Could probally post those injectors on your local Craigslist as well. Probally can get a set of 450's plus some cash maybe.
 
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